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Discussion starter · #21 ·
thanks matt. you are feoa's resident gen3 genius.

Now...u know anything about turbo charging the zetec?
 
rule of thumb when it comes to oil is replace what you remove, when you replace a component you should drain and measure the oil to see how much to put back in, without knowing its a crap shoot cause you dont have a completely dry system. if your system has been open for an extended period of time, you need a new receiver dryer. it is full of desecant(aka silica gel) and when left open absorbs all the moisture it can and becomes useless. you can get a manual vacuum pump that just hooks to an air line for 10 bucks, and of course you'd need a set of manifold guages as well, but if you want it done properly you need a new dryer, and an hour or so of vacuum to boil out the moisture
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Ok, here is how it is on the 98 with the 3 wire high pressure switch according to the Ford manual. The green/red striped wire on the low pressure switch taps into to the same colored wire on the CCRM (pin 21) or pin 41 on the PCM. The orange wire goes to the orange/green stripe wire on the climate control switch. Here are the diagrams. Remember, these are for a 98 with the 3 wire high pressure switch.
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I am EXACTLY at this point again. I have new lines, I need these wiring diagrams again. Maddmatt is your PayPal still the same?:D
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I tried dealers again, tried all the places I could. I need a 97 AC 3 wire wiring diagram.
 
3 wire pressure sensor?
If so
LG/BK to connector c206
LG/W is power same as other LG/W that powers dpfe and power steering sensor
GN/BK to pin 86 of ecu

You said something about Orange wire, there is an O/GN wire under the dash at at connector c273 which is labeled as going to "a/c low pressure switch" - I would assume this goes to the LG/BK at c206 under hood
 
I am EXACTLY at this point again. I have new lines, I need these wiring diagrams again. Maddmatt is your PayPal still the same?:D
Got it man. I hate these stupid image hosts! No matter which one you pick they ALWAYS screw you over in the end and hurt forum communities
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:Edit: Went back and updated original post.
 
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Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
I got a lot figured out but I still can't get the compressor to kick on. I have a manifold set. A vac pump. A 30lb r134a and oil.

My ORIGINAL POST here was misleading. I had taken my first harness from the pick a part. It had a 3 wire. I don't think this applies. There is something else going on.

This time I had my 2001 zx2 nose to nose for the swap. I took my engine bay harness, Power dist. box, and engine harness from the 2001 zx2. THIS TIME I HAVE A 4 WIRE.
All I thought I needed to do was add 2 wires for the drier.


So. I swapped high pressure sensors. I wired the low pressure sensor (drier) like this:
-GN/RD to GN/RD on high pressure sensor.
-OG/GN to OG/GN behind climate controller far right selector.

I put some pressure in and the compressor still won't kick on.

The engine rpm adjusts, and the fan kicks on, but no compressor :(

How do I check my compressor clutch? Do I send 12v to the Red and ground the blue/white? Or just jumper it?

I appreciate the help so much guys.
 
Start by putting a test light across the clutch connector to see if it's even getting power.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Start by putting a test light across the clutch connector to see if it's even getting power.
I have a multi meter. Just probe the 2 compressor wires for 12v with a charged system and the A/C on?
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
No power to the clutch. :(

The ONLY part I changed from the zx2 was the PCM. I put in a CWQ3. Could this be the problem?
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
What is the startup procedure for the AC in the ZX2?

from start to end, what kicks the ac compressor on?

What could keep it from coming on?

The system holds pressure. The low side is st 80psi. My heat/blower/vent controls work...everything else appears to work as it should.

I'm really baffled here. The AC wiring all came from the 2001 zx2, or I wired in the 2 wires. I even have a 2003 zx2 wiring diagram from ford in front of me this time too.
 
Well the pressure switch must see the right pressure otherwise it will be an open circuit at the sensor.
One of things I just thought of is that you have a ccrm that relays power to ac clutch. I have heard they go bad, so is it a known good one? Also it seems like when people replace the ccrm that they have to get similar part numbers or id numbers, at least that is what I thought I read, please keep in mind i dont know 3rd gens well except for parts i scavenge for my 2nd gen. Just trying to give ideas.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I pressurized the system with over a pound. Watched the liquid flow in. It's still in there, but the compressor won't turn on to take in the rest.

Everything worked fine on the zx2 I disassembled and used for parts. Even the AC system.

As far as I can tell on the wiring diagram the ac system (except for the relocation of the drier and addition of 2 wires) is all contained in the wiring for the swap.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I swapped PCMs and CCRMs. No change.

My fan kicks on, my idle increases, my compressor doesn't engage. The clutch could possibly be bad but I'll be diagnosing it this week.

I have a feeling some dash wiring expecting to route a 3 wire high pressure sensor and see a 97 CCRM isn't playing nice.
 
What is the startup procedure for the AC in the ZX2?

from start to end, what kicks the ac compressor on?

What could keep it from coming on?

The system holds pressure. The low side is st 80psi. My heat/blower/vent controls work...everything else appears to work as it should.

I'm really baffled here. The AC wiring all came from the 2001 zx2, or I wired in the 2 wires. I even have a 2003 zx2 wiring diagram from ford in front of me this time too.
Power comes from the 15A A/C fuse in the interior fuse box, it enters the vent position via a white wire and leaves via an orange/green wire later changing to an orange wire and going into the low pressure switch. Assuming that switch is closed it goes out via a green/red wire to CCRM pin 21 which is one side of the WOT relay. This relay is normally closed and assuming it is power then flows out of CCRM pin 23 via a blue/wire wire to the clutch coil. Power then travels out of the clutch coil via the red wire back to CCRM pin 16 when it travels back out of pin 15 to a black/violet wire and grounds at the negative battery post.

Now here is the tricky part, the PCM controls the WOT relay, if you floor the car then it opens. It also gets input from the high pressure switch and if the pressure goes to high the PCM will also open the relay. There is also a difference in the A/C wiring between the early and later ZX2's and the CCRM's are different, the WOT relay is reversed (normally open instead of closed) meaning you will only have A/C when you floor the car and not any other time. The diagram I got you is just like the one I originally posted and from an early model ZX2. If it's a newer one with the 6 wire MAF then there are supposedly differences.

Start by unplugging the low pressure switch and checking for power on the orange wire with the engine running and the A/C switched on. If you have power there then try jumping across the plug and see if it turns on. If it doesn't then its something related to the CCRM or its wiring. As I recall the normal Escort has the low pressure switch wiring on the engine harness but the ZX2 has it on the body harness.
 
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Wow thank you! I ordered a ton of factory literature from eBay. With this info you gave me and the workshop manuals and wiring diagrams I should be able to get this. Thank you so much matt
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Ok I got out today to do some testing. The low pressure switch has power going to it from the ac selector, when switched on.

The low pressure switch is passing the 12v through to the high pressure switch.

At WOT I get no change, the AC doesn't switch on.

Pin 22 Blue/Black at the CCRM has 0.08 volts when commanded on and 12 volts when switched off.

You said " Assuming that switch is closed it goes out via a green/red wire to CCRM pin 21 which is one side of the WOT relay."

My wiring diagram shows the green red wire goes from the low pressure switch directly into the high pressure switch. There is no CCRM contact between.

If yours shows this then I think this might be my problem.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
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Selector OG to low pressure Og/Gn
Low pressure Green/Rd out to high pressure Gn/Rd

That's really all I did. Just add in the low pressure switch. I used all my original zx2 stuff that worked. I swapped a CCRM with a member and that had no change.

:(
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
AC Clutch coil is not getting power out of the CCRM pin 23 Blue/White or CCRM pin 16 Red.


I hear relays click when the AC is commanded on, the idle kicks up, the fan turns on.

It's got to be something so small. Or a bad CCRM even though I swapped one already back in and out with no change.
 
Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
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I think I'm making progress.

My wiring diagram for the 2001(2003) zx2 says the white wire gets power from the fuse panel under the dash labeled AC.

My 97 fuse panel does not have anything labeled AC.

My white wire has .05 volts when the engine is running or not, and AC switched on or off.

So...is this white wire supposed to have power from a fuse under the dash?

I compared both harness, pin 21 is my white wire on my zx2...it's green on the SPI!

The 15A fuse on my 97 is marked HEGO (o2 sensor fuse). So it's obviously not sending power to the CCRM.

Looks like I need to send 12v to the ZX2 CCRM pin 21.

Can I energize pin 21 with 12v and not hurt anything?
 
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