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Oil Pan Removal Questions

5.3K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  denisond3  
#1 ·
Hey All -

So my junkyard oil pan replacement part arrived a few days ago as did a new oil pan gasket. Upon a quick inspection, it looks relatively straight forward to remove the pan:

1) Remove/Disconnect O2 sensors
2) Remove 4 bolts that hold cat to header
3) Remove 2 bolts that hold bottom of cat to exhaust
4) Remove what appears to be two bolts that go into the side of the oil pan near trans
5) Remove the pan bolts (after draining oil of course)

Is that about right? I can't tell if the belly band (front to back cross member) needs to be removed or not - any thoughts there?

Lastly, I was thinking about using black RTV to affix the gasket to the pan - that work?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
The front to rear crossmember isnt a problem with my 2nd gen Escorts - hopefully the 3rd gen are the same. I use the molded felpro or victor gasket, PLUS a nice bead of RTV ultra black. This has worked to prevent leaks for me. Without the RTV I get leaks at the ends, where the pan curves down around the oil pump casting and rear main seal casting.
When reinstalling, you bring the small bolts up just snug, and then install the two bolts that go sideways into the bell housing. You torque them up first, then torque up the bolts holding the pan to the block. This lets the pan be in the correct position - of being in solid contact with the bell housing.
 
#3 · (Edited)
On 3G engines, the cat support bracket attaches directly to the bellhousing. The oil pan isn't involved at all, IIRC (but the bracket blocks its removal). Spray both ends of the bolts with penetrating oil if they're stuck (35 ft-lbs!).

You must remove the rear crossmember to allow the cat to be lowered enough to remove the oil pan. If the 4 crossmember bolts have never been removed, spray them liberally with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight before removing. You can spray the exposed ends of the bolts thru holes in the frame. Use an impact wrench if possible to avoid snapping a bolt.

You don't have to disconnect the front O2 sensor. You may not have to disconnect the rear O2 sensor under the battery tray if there's enough slack to rest the front cat flange on the front frame.

Clean the sludge out of the pan before reinstalling it. The new oil pan gasket is a tight fit in the channel. You won't be able to press it in all the way by hand. You don't need extra RTV to prevent leaks in the channel (at least for the Felpro gasket I used). Make sure the gasket sits evenly in the channel, no bulges or kinks or sideways twists.

Use a floor jack to lightly support the oil pan when you reinstall it. You must put a dab of Ultra Black RTV on each of the corners of the block to prevent leaks at the joints where the oil pump (or the rear main seal housing) attaches to the block. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in the manual, from the center outwards alternativing front and back bolts. Tighten them in 2 or 3 stages to allow the gasket to fully and evenly seat in the oil pan channel.

Install but don't tighten the 2 bolts attaching the cat to the support bracket. Install and tighten the 4 flange nuts for the manifold, then tighten the other 2 bolts. This allows the flange to seat itself without being misaligned.

Use antisieze on the 4 crossmember bolts when reassembling. Tighten the bolts in 2 stages to allow the crossmember to align with the frame.
 
#5 ·
Remember that after the first time - it will seem to have been an easy fix.
And by the way, Fate I; Welcome to the Forums!

I currently own four 2nd gen Escorts, all used as daily drivers by the wife and I. At my age (I am 72) the hardest part of working on them is getting up from the ground repeatedly during the work. I bought them as non-runners, AS-IS, and fixed them up.
We are in zip code 78570, and have had six consecutive days of a very light rain, and chilly temperatures, but all above freezing.
 
#10 ·
I installed the oil pan gasket. I made the mistake of not reading the instructions about the RTV Ultra Black. And it seems I have a very tiny leak on the indentation of the oil pan where it attaches to the engine. I was so anxious to do the work that I did not use any RTV whatsoever. The leak is so small, that I will wait until May when I'm off again. Thanks to all of you guys for the great info. Like I said, from now on, I will read the entire threads.
 
#11 ·
The Service Manual calls for some sealant at the four corners, where the block meets the housings for the oil pump and for the rear main seal. At first that is the only place I put any. After the pans (on two of my Escorts) began leaking slightly, I used a bead of Ultra Black all around the groove in the pan too - a thin bead, under the molded gasket. Then - no leaks.

Anyway - Im glad your Escort is back in service, and thanks for the feedback.