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FLEXPLATE IS GIVING ME GRIEF

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9.2K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  tech1  
#1 ·
I'm stumpped on this one. This will be the sixth time i've dropped the trans. The problem is the flexplate keeps rubbing on the block. It has cut a groove into the block and rubbed the end of the crank sensor off. I have pulled the flexplate off and put it on a surface plate to check for run out. It has .025 " run out. According to ALLDATA it's allowed up to .060
runout. There are no visable cracks anywhere on the flexplate. When I istalled the t.c. I made sure it was on all the way! It seems to bottom out
on the statorhub. I am dropping the trans at the momment. I have noticed that I cannot push the t.c. bolts out of the flexplate while trans is bolted to engine. I do remember having to line up the t.c. bolts to slide the trans onto the engine. I called the trans shop to see if they sold me the correct t.c. and they agreed it was correct. The funny thing is, I actually test drove the car and it shifted fine. If it were not for the ticking sound from the flexplate hitting the block, the rebuild would have been a success! By the way, it's a 1999 escort zx2 2.0L dohc.
I'm now going to check the crank shaft for exccesive walking. I beleive it's allowed up to .012.
I don't think thats the problem though, it ran fine before the rebuild.
Has anyone ever delt with such a problem? Or have any idea's.
 
#2 ·
Sounds like you have the most excessive crank-walk I have ever heard of on a ZX2. I have heard of flywheels taking out the sensor but never cutting unto the block. You will need to rebuild the bottom end of the engine or replace it.
 
#3 ·
I was afraid of that!! I will have the trans out today. I was interupted yesterday and was unable to finish removing it. I don't want to beleive thats the problem, but , the dial indicater will tell the story. I'll post the results.
 
#4 ·
Hey guys, my worse fear has been realized. Without even putting a dial indicator on it, I'm realizing .125 end play in the crank!!! Looks like an engine rebuild is in order. It needed a timing belt anyway. There is about
118,000 miles on the engine. Just did not need this headache right now!
The funny thing is, the damn thing strarts and run excellent! I expect the rebuild kit to be around $600.00. I've been seeing engines sell for around $400-$600 in my area, so with a rebuild, at least I know what I'm getting.
Thanks for the feed back. I'll post the engine results in the future.
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
Well, I just got the crank out! The thrust bearing cut a nice deep groove
into the crank. It's too far gone to consider repair. I have been repairing and building engines for 35 years and have never seen anything like this!!
Although this is the first 4 cylinder I have taken on. Still, I find myself wondering, what would cause that much forward pressure ? All the bearing jounals mic'ed out with no taper!! Even the bearings (except the thrust bearing ) showed no signs of wear marks or gouges! Weird, to say the least!!
This whole thing started with the trans letting go. The engine ran great, so I decided to rebuild the trans. During the rebuild I discovered that the trans got so hot , it turned the parking prawl and other pieces BLUE!!
I did replace some HARD items because they got so hot. Why take a chance on distortion. After trans installation is when I discovered the crank walk!!
It never really ends does it!!
I don't know, maybe this is why they call them thrw aways.
I don't like the timing belt set-up on this motor. There is a whole lot of vertical belt going down to the crank sproket. By nature , this alone could cause enough pressure on the crank to make it want to walk forward.
Think about it. If any of the idler or tention pulleys had even the slightest
wear on their bearings, they would be out of alignment and it would magnify the run out of the belt.
For this reason alone I will install all new tensioners and idlers. I,ll keep you posted, thring to get some pics today.
 
#7 ·
The theory is there were a bad batch of engines from 99-00 that had the crank walk issue. The transmission heat issue can be resolved by ditching the tranny cooler integrated into the radiator in favor of an external one. Of course, the ultimate solution is to do a 5 speed swap.

I'm going to be messing with a ZX2 timing belt this spring/summer. My dads ZX2 needs it changed and I'm going to replace all the idlers and the tensioner while I'm at it.
 
#8 ·
On my way to pick up the new crank and bearing kit from CARQEUST AUTO. Crank and bearings run $260.00, Timing belt with tension and idlers
run $115.00, water pump run $41.00 (may as well put in a new one while it's accessable).
One thing I discovered was that there is oil dripping from the bottom of the exaust manifold. The valve cover gasket looks to be good. There is a item below the manifold they call an oil seporater, its contains the pcv valve. This thing is soaked. I will replace the seperater gasket along with a new pcv valve, and just for shits and grins I will replace the valve cover gasket.
As for the 5 speed, well, my sons want me to do it. They also want a turbo, cold air system, programmer, new exaust, body kit, rims and tires, and a custom paint job.My answer was, Thats why I'm sending you to college, so when you graduate, you can find a job that will allow you to do all of thows things!!!! :lol:
For now , we'll just make it a nice dependable ride to get them to their destination. (hopfully out of the house!!!) :lol:
I'll keep ya posted
 
#9 ·
For now , we'll just make it a nice dependable ride to get them to their destination. (hopfully out of the house!!!) lol
LMFAO :lol: you an my dad sound alike.

thats some deep crank walk indeed ..... wow

now how is it that you USA folks can rebuild a motor for under $600 in parts where as if i went down to my local parts store an ordered the same things you did i'd be looking at a $1,100 + price tag

Canada is so over priced omg
 
#10 ·
Silex said:
For now , we'll just make it a nice dependable ride to get them to their destination. (hopfully out of the house!!!) lol
LMFAO :lol: you an my dad sound alike.

thats some deep crank walk indeed ..... wow

now how is it that you USA folks can rebuild a motor for under $600 in parts where as if i went down to my local parts store an ordered the same things you did i'd be looking at a $1,100 + price tag

Canada is so over priced omg
Not sure, gst tax maybe? I'm still bitching about the cost I had to pay!
Well, I just completed the rebuild, timing tensioner about gave me a stroke though!! :lol: The instructions said that when the tensioner is set, lock down all the bolts then pull the alighnment bar off the cams. Then turn the motor over by hand 2 times and recheck the tension and cam alighnment. Well, :lol: as I completed one turn, I felt pressure building in the exhaust cam, then I heard a SNAP , And the cam stopped turning!!
While this happend, the intake cam was still turning along with the exhaust sprocket.
Well, nothing broke. I just witnessed how the VCT worked. It was the damnest thing. Never new how it worked.
Anyway, the engine runs fine, computer seems to think I need both O2 sensors though. I'm thinking the auto parts store has a transmitter in my computer! :lol: The trans rebuild also was a success. All together I think
I have invested a total of $900.00 engine and trans. Maybe I can get another 118000 miles out of it!!
Well, now my wifes 2000 bonneville needs a mass air sensor, the 97 sunfire needs new wires ( won't start when wet), the oldest boy's 95 mustange just smoked the driver side electric seat motor (it's stuck all the way forward and he is 6' tall) :lol: :lol: . Then theres my 97 dodge truck with the V-10, it gets 6 miles to the gallon wether its running or NOT!!! :lol: :eek: :cry: .