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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started driving the car a few weeks ago when we got the wife a new vehicle and right off the bat noticed things were not quite right. Should have paid more attention to the car I know but didn't. Recently took the 01 ES (32K miles) to a shop here in town due to the low/rough idle and mayeb even some power loss and have been working a few pieces since. Before it went in I changed out the spark plugs and put in a K&N Air filter since it hasn't had its 30,000 tune up.

Items shop found that I was able to work on/replaced:
DFPE Sensor
Fuel Filter
MAF cleaned
PCV Valve and tubing (piece that comes directly off PCV vavle)

I still have to Fuel Pressure Sensor to replace (if I really need to replace it) and they are suggesting a Fuel Induction Servicing. After changing these parts, I have noticed it's driving better and seems to be a little peppier but no real change on the idle. I checked the IACV and it seemed in good shape. Can I adjust the what seems to be an adjustment screw on the end of the IACV? Not really sure where else I can go to try and get it back to "new" again. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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no - the IAC valve is not adjustable

have you replaced your fuel filter?

Instead of a fuel induction service that costs an arm and a leg - SeaFoam it yourself - the How-To is listed in the sticky section of the "How-To" forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, the fuel filter was replaced. I never thought about doing the Sea foam. I also noticed today that it has a slight hesitation or stumble when I have to accelerate quickly when I'm pulling into traffic and it gets half way or so through 2 gear; maybe around 35-40 or so. But only happens when I really have to get into it, not at normal acceleration.

As far as the fuel pressure sensor, where is it located?
 

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This is identical to my problem. I'll be watching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor after work today and also reset the ECU to see if any changes will occur. Nothing seemed different before the reset but I'm hopin! How many miles does it typically take for the ECU to relearn and get back to normal? 100 miles, less, more?

If after all this, and no change occurs, might have to invest into a code reader!
 

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My 99 idles like a tractor as well. I did a fuel filter, ran seafoam through the intake, cleaned the idle control valve, replace the pcv valve, checked all the vacuum lines for leaks, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the air filter, put new spark plugs and wires on it and it still is as rough as when I got it. I am beginning to think this is a valvetrain issue and not something in the EEC-V computer system. I get slight lifter tap at idle at times and when I'm driving I get some valvetrain resonance through the engine. I think either the lifters are not staying tight or the rocker arms are worn/bent from use and age.
 

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mattamous said:
Replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor after work today and also reset the ECU to see if any changes will occur. Nothing seemed different before the reset but I'm hopin! How many miles does it typically take for the ECU to relearn and get back to normal? 100 miles, less, more?

If after all this, and no change occurs, might have to invest into a code reader!
The ECU re-learns its tuning as you drive, but not all parameters take the same number of miles. Many of the self-tests only occur after a certain number of drive cycle rather than miles. And before anyone asks, practically every one of the self-checks and monitors resets at it's own point; most of them are different from each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
F-16Wrench said:
mattamous said:
Replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor after work today and also reset the ECU to see if any changes will occur. Nothing seemed different before the reset but I'm hopin! How many miles does it typically take for the ECU to relearn and get back to normal? 100 miles, less, more?

If after all this, and no change occurs, might have to invest into a code reader!
The ECU re-learns its tuning as you drive, but not all parameters take the same number of miles. Many of the self-tests only occur after a certain number of drive cycle rather than miles. And before anyone asks, practically every one of the self-checks and monitors resets at it's own point; most of them are different from each other.
Thanks for the clarification!

This might seem a little silly :oops: but when I replaced the spark plugs a month or so ago, I used the NGK platinum's. The mechanic that did the diagnostic was 100% against those and was almost demanding I replaced with the Autolite platinum's (I'm not a mechanic by any means), is changing the spark plugs to the Autolite's that serious since the NGK's run hotter?
 

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not really , ive had best performance with the simple ford motorcraft plugs , a hotter pug or a performance oriented plug wont make it run any better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I guess I'm kind of wondering if the spark plugs would really have anything to do with the idle problem? The way the mechanic was saying made it sound like they had everything to do with it and if I didn't change them out, the world would implode!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, haven't done much with the Escort in 2 weeks or so. I think this weekend I might try the unplug IAC and start it trick and see if it idles any differently. After that if nothing changes, I'll probably head to the EGR valve and see if it needs to be cleaned. Gettin frustrated! :wall:
 
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