Yes, another overheating thread. Please L00K! :'( | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Yes, another overheating thread. Please L00K! :'(

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.8L DOHC' started by 91BluefeGT, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    YES, IT'S A LOT! But I need some help. :(This car was my moms before she handed the keys to me. While she had it (and the reason she gave it up) was because it kept overheating. She got a 01' jetta. It sat for maybe a year until I realized I fell in love with you... "little Blue"(Lol). IT'S STILL OVER HEATING! I have read the other couple subjects. Like "95GT Overheating...." And "overheating.... almost". I can safely rule out the heater core being damaged, It was replaced before she discontinued using the GT. although it is possible for it to be clogged. I will attempt flushing out the block and radiator tommorow. I will also check the lower/upper Rad hoses tommorow too to see if I get any results.Im Almost sure it's not the WP because, I heard from somewhere/someone that it would be squealing or making some kind of noise to let me know it's done it's time-nothing, no sound or anything. All I hear is the sweat, sweat sound of that 1.8 at idle :p . Im sure it's NOT the head gasket. I would be losing oil and burning it. same level every time i check. No leakage in to the engine from Anti-freeze. She did say that she took it to a mechanic and they said it has a cracked rad. Last time I checked, wouldn't it leak if that's the case? Could the T-stat be the prob? I have no clue when that was last replaced. As for the "Puffing smoke on a warm sunny day", it doesn't do that. Any idea guys? This is the biggest issue with my Scorty, It runs fine if it actually could run with out super heating my hood! Also, Would it getting no cooling cause It to rev in the 1500-1800 Rpm's when I give it a bit of gas at first start? It idle's real high at sometimes. even gets to 2000 sometimes. Is that part of the overheating issue? Only time when it idle's at 800-1000 is when its at (NORMAL).... about the M After a couple kills and restarts. (because it needs time to cool down from overheating...
    Any idea?

    THANKS A LOT Feoa Community (in advance) for the help! THANKS FOR READING!!:)
  2. racethisescort89

    racethisescort89 New Member

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    the T stat could be sticking shut and not letting it flow thru the rad as efficiently as it should, you could have a bad WP because not all the time will it whine. the whine is just the impellers. the Rad could be clogged and again not circulating the coolent back around efficiently.

    Best advice i can give you bro. drain ur coolent take off ur bottom and top rad hoses and the Hardline that follows up to the Heater Core take the garden hose and go Ape Sh!t. i even went as far as taking my rad OUT n flushing it in my backyard.and fortunetly for me it was clean. i also took off my T-stat housing removed the T-stat and put the garden hose in that wat. that will make it flow thru the block thru the water jackets and out the waterpump and if there is something clogging it, then it wil get fired out onto the ground.

    Good Luck tho hope she stops her probs
  3. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Hey, thanks for the fast reply! I will TOTALLY try all of that tommorow, first thing when I get up! The Rad doesn't llook that difficult to take out. Ill pull it out and BLAST IT with the hose (I love blasting stuff with that hose lol). 8O I need to get this figured out. Thanks racethisescort89. Ill let you know how tommorow what's up with it. But, hey! Problem not solved yet! More replies are welcome! tips, tricks, anything. Lol :p Thanks guys:)
  4. racethisescort89

    racethisescort89 New Member

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    Tip: when removing the T-stat housing Gently loosen the bolts or the tools
    will fly Make sure you have the 2$ new gasket OR some Copper RTV handy and DO NOT i repeat DO NOT CRANK down the T-stat housing bolts snug them up then give them the final little 1/4 turn then leave it or you will snap a bolt head then be in worse shape then already
  5. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    How many miles on the car, and how old or foamy is the coolant?

    If the overheating happens on the highway while moving along - the thermostat would be a prime suspect, as well as leaves and bugs in the a.c. condenser or radiator fins. The water pump would only be a cause if the impeller fins were corroded away - which you cant see without taking if off.

    If it overheats when in slow traffic and dense urban driving, it could be the radiator fan isnt working. I replaced a radiator fan this summer in my LX because it wore out. With an LX, (I dont know if GTs are the same) when you first turn the ignition on it spins the fan for a second - and this fan was still doing that, but wouldnt run more than a few seconds before it ground to a halt. It never did blow the fuse either.
  6. fast_five_oh

    fast_five_oh New Member

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    my cooling fan relay went out...then my fan 30 miles from home (wd40 unfroze it lol made a horrible noise)...i swapped it to a cheap $5 relay and a new fan..
  7. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Thanks for all the tips guyz! No, unfortunatley, I did all the work yesterday day and couldn't get to the net:(. But, me and A buddy went shopping around for the t-stat and the temp sending unit. But, I THINK I DID IT! (now, this is an achievement for me because I am only 16, lol) But, Im pretty sure it's all fixed now. let it idle for about 15 minutes and the temp gauge went up very slowly(first good sign). it warmed up to between the M&A (NORMAL)kinda twitched back between M&A and legs of M. Cranked up the A/C full power, to see the affect and It actually COOLED the engine down to the O. I was kinda freakin' out cause doesn't the A/C usually cause the engine to run a little hotter? And also, when I first started it up after installing the new parts it leaked pretty bad, CLOSE TO TOURQUEING the bolts, I screwed them on pretty hard so it would stop leaking, but it didn't. but after a little while it just stoppped leaking.... should I losen them a tad, racethisescort89? ALSO Im sure it stays between the M&A because ITS WATER that's cooling it, not anti-freeze. Right?

    THANKS AGAIN GUYS!

    Drake
  8. racethisescort89

    racethisescort89 New Member

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    umm if its not leaking dont loosen them, also if you get cold winters i would start looking at some 50/50 mix coolent or else the car will get cold in the winter and idk if u have taken gr 9 science but cold water expands. so if ur using water it will expand inside the block when its cold seal up your water jackets and blow ur motor sky high. the A/C CAN make the engine run hotter but not usually my car sits comfortably in between the legs of the R and gets to A before the fan kicks in. seems ok to me it gets nice and warm so i know its working efficiently.

    And it stopped suddenly leaking because thats how a gasket works.. it expands under temperature. lol
  9. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    The radiator fan runs all the time if the a.c. system is operating, and that will keep the engine cooler than if you just let it sit and idle. Without the a.c. being on the fan wont run until the water gets to about 200, which will probably be past the middle of the gauge.
  10. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Lol, oh yeah, I did not plan on having that water in there for long. the water was to just test out my work to make sure its circulating and all of that. now im going to drain it and get anti-freeze in it right away! But I did not know that's how gaskets work! lol, i thought that they were just to make sure the mtal or whatever between them doesn't grind or anything and so it has a firm connection so it WONT leak out the crease. lol. and yes, I know that the A/C auto kicks the fan on. I hear it and feel it. also, i thing I havent seen or heard in years from My escort is a NORMAL IDLE. It actually idles at 800 instead of 1200 all the time. lol now my wallet is safe:D.

    Drake
  11. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    My experience is that if a gasket leaks at first, it will either continue to leak, or will leak later at a bad time. So what you experienced is a new one to me.

    The purpose of any gasket is to take up for very minor surface irregularities on the two surfaces, so as to prevent leaks. When installing the gaskets on my Escort engines (mine are all 1.9 LX's) I use a thin smear of Permatex RTV gasket maker on the two sides of the gasket. But then I also give the RTV 24 hours to cure after I have install the parts and torqued the bolts down.
  12. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Uhh... I thought it's NOT the way to go when torquing bolts? Makes it near impossible to get them back off later... BUT, another concern. I have lfushed the whole cooling sys. (rad and the block) and it's clear water. But, when I go for the drainage plug on the bottom of the radiator, It leaks VERY SLOW and is still all grimed up with brown sh*t. What the heck? I let it drain for half a gal almost and it's still GRIMED! what's the deal?

    Thanks in advance guys:) And thanks for the help EARLIER too:).
  13. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    sludge gumming up the drain valve is fairly common. If you can unthread the drain valve all the way, and poke a wire into the opening,, it might get the sludge to flow out better.

    I dont put the gasket maker on the bolt threads, though I think they would still unscrew later on. When putting a bolt into any aluminum threaded hole I either use an antiseieze compound, or a little grease, or some threadlocker - depending whether i expec the bolt to see a lot of vibration.
  14. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Unthreading the valve, ay? Well so i just kinda.. yank it out? GENTLY? cause it unscrews all the way and that's it. it doesn't come out anymore, without use of force. Would it be easy to put back on after?
  15. racethisescort89

    racethisescort89 New Member

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    ya the threads come to the end then just pull it out and to put it in just slightly push on it and twist it in.
  16. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Oh, okay! Simple enough! Ill do tha twhen I get back home! :p. but that stuff looks SICK. ha, it's contaminating my new, clear water! :?
  17. kylespatula

    kylespatula New Member

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    had the same problem with my bp swapped lx. i drained the shitty looking coolant, took the thermostat out then ran the rhose through the thermostat housing to flush all the junk outta there. but everything back together and now, no overheating :]
  18. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    DUDE! WHAT THE HECK IS A BP SWAP?? An engine swap from a Mazda? Ha, I know im a newb at this but still.... But yeah, i was reading my manual today (first time ever) and i learned a lot of stuff about my own car!:D Like The Upshift light (to bad im a 1.8) :(. And a bunch of other stuff. i was mainly looking for info on how to fix my AUTOMATIC BELT! It's busted:( . But I also found, in the back, A list of the first owner of my 91 ESCORT! It was cool, because it was like a blast from the past. all the maint. log records from may 1991 to September 1999. lol. It was cool to see that some one really cared about 'er :).
  19. 91BluefeGT

    91BluefeGT FEOA Member

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    Yeah, I know.... I sound like A kid! Hahaha :D
  20. racethisescort89

    racethisescort89 New Member

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    you dont know what a BP swap is and u drive a escort GT??

    a "BP" is lamens terms for the engine code of the escort GT and Mazda pro LX

    It's short for "BP05" which is the Dual Overhead Cam Mazda motor. the "bp" swap is what some guys do to their soft Lx's they buy a cheapy EGT engine and stuff it in the frame rails. taa daa a BP swap.

    P.S

    You been Schooled by Dave

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