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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, All!

I am having issues turning my manual 1993 LX wagon off.

I can't turn my key to the off position anymore. My keys do still turn the ignition lock from ON to START without any issues, and the key and/or cylinder are worn enough that I can just pull the key out of the lock in the ON position, but it won't turn to ACC or to the OFF position.

I purchased a new ignition lock cylinder (not the whole assembly, just the cylinder) in the hopes that I could just switch that out, but I can't get the cylinder out of the assembly. My Heynes doesn't seem to have a section on switching the ignition key cylinder or the assembly out, but I remember reading here that there is a pin that should release the ignition cylinder from it's assembly. Now I read that the lock is held into the assembly with 2 pins at the 6 o'clock and the 3 o'clock position. It seems that these pins will come out with the key in ACC, but my key won't go there, so those pins won't budge.

Any thoughts on why my key won't turn to ACC? Could it be anything else besides the worn keys/lock cylinder? Could this be related to an issue with a switch that tells the car it's out of gear? What are my options to getting these pins out?

Thanks for your help!
Olga
 

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typically cylinders come out in the run position, it has been a while since I had an escorts out, but if you can not get it into that position you may have to replace the entire lock mechanism. that would require replacement of the whole assembly and drilling out the mount bolts. 100% could be related to the 'out of gear' switch. it is impossible to speculate why your part has failed, age, dirt, theft...


this is the whole part assembly

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
typically cylinders come out in the run position, it has been a while since I had an escorts out, but if you can not get it into that position you may have to replace the entire lock mechanism. that would require replacement of the whole assembly and drilling out the mount bolts. 100% could be related to the 'out of gear' switch. it is impossible to speculate why your part has failed, age, dirt, theft...


this is the whole part assembly

Thanks for all the the infos, Marclar!

I am not trying to understand why my cylinder has failed as much as I am trying to figure out if there is still a way for me to fix this without exchanging the whole assembly. It's pricey and seems like it wouldn't be easy to replace because of the anti-theft bolts holding it to the steering column.

I can turn my key to the START position without any resistance and the car does run when I do so. So you're saying that the ignition key cylinder should come out of it's assembly with the key in that position? How do I get it out? From the posts I read here I somehow assumed that the two little pins at the 6 o'clock and the 3 o'clock position will somehow pop out in in ACC, but it really made no sense to me looking at the new ignition key cylinder. Which one is the pin I am supposed to press for the lock to come out of it's housing?

I was wondering about there possibly being a faulty switch that doesn't tell the lock I'm out of gear so it won't turn and/or shut off the car. If that could be the case, what would this switch be called and where could I find it to check on it? Maybe I can get the ignition key cylinder out of it's assembly with that switch working?

Olga
 

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I have personally never had an automatic version apart, so I cant say for sure. but typically there is a cable that runs from the shifter to the lock cyl assy that prevents key removal when not in park, it is possible your cable is broken or otherwise not allowing the release mechanism to operate as designed. have you removed the column shrouds yet to inspect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have personally never had an automatic version apart, so I cant say for sure. but typically there is a cable that runs from the shifter to the lock cyl assy that prevents key removal when not in park, it is possible your cable is broken or otherwise not allowing the release mechanism to operate as designed. have you removed the column shrouds yet to inspect?
This is a manual, so I don't think I have a neutral safety switch, but I'm uncertain if there is anything comparable for the manual trans?
 

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I have been able to get the lock cylinder out of the ignition switch assembly on my 5-speed, but I had the entire assembly out of the car to do it. This involved removing the clamshell on the steering column, then taking out the four bolts holding the steering column up (12mm socket needed) and letting the column droop into my lap, then getting the two antitheft bolts loosened, using a sharp cold chisel and hammering the chisel against the rim of both bolts counter-clockwise till they were loose enough to remove, and unplugging the two connectors to the electrical part of the switch, and then being able to remove the entire ignition lock assembly from the car.
Then with the thing held in my shop vise, I used a small screw extractor to pull out the pins at 3' and 6', They are split pins, so I had to use pliers on the screw extractor to pull them out. Then the lock cylinder could come out.
If your ignition switch is so worn that you can get the key out in any position other than fully "off", then I would recommend a new complete ignition switch assembly, admitedly sort of pricey. I got my replacement via rockauto(dot)com, for about $140. There is one type for the autotrans cars, another type for the 5-speeds. They arent interchangeable, the difference is in the 'interface' for getting the key to the fully-off position so they key will come out.
I wouldn't delay getting the replacement part, it looks like they are nearly out of stock. Be sure to look in the listings for "ignition", not in "electrical".

The "neutral safety switch" like the automatics have is not on a 5-speed, but with the ignition switch on a 5-speed, you have to push the lock cylinder inward slightly to turn the key the rest of the way to off -- so the key can be pulled out.
The 5-speed has a switch bolted into the lower front side of the trans to turn the back-up lights on when you are in reverse. And you have to hold the clutch pedal all the way down for the starter to work.
 

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For a few years I drove my 59 Jaguar with a non-functioning ignition switch, back when there was no aftermarket and the dealership wasnt helpful. I rigged up three toggle switches. One was for the ignition itself, another was for the accessories, the third was a momentary single-pole single throw, to make the starter go. All 3 switches were buried below the dashboard, a few inches apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks a bunch for the link, Marclar!

And thank you very much for you detailed description of getting that lock out of the ignition switch assembly, Denisond3!

I'm now convinced to just get the new assembly, and it's easy enough to just pick it up at an O'Reilly. First time I see a part bein cheaper there than Rockauto!

Olga
 

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I had one in a 98 that would not turn to the off position after i had it for a year or so. ever since i had that happen i always put wd40 or rust penetrator into the key hole since i never did it on that one before that happened. i ended up getting rid of it for something else but it was very annoying.
 

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First time I see a part bein cheaper there than Rockauto!
I personally do not buy parts offline anymore, especially rock auto. some things can be ok, but if it is a part that has a possibility of needing warrantied or replaced due to poor quality, I'd rather take it to the store and put it on the counter, rather than dealing with shipping with an online company. just my preference though
 

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For certain I would buy very differently, if I were in business. But I have the luxury of being a hobbyist, persuing it for fun. ; With my relatives I either fix their cars for nothing, or I refuse to work on them. They are going to miss me when I am gone!
 
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