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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok heres my problem guys, my car runs fine with the acception of clicking valves during the first few seconds after starting the engine, and i mean theyre really really loud! And after a fresh oil change this tapping dissapears for about a month then its back, could this mean something is worn? BTW i do have a leaky valve cover gasket but its not leaking huge amounts of oil so i know its not from low oil, and the engine is a 1.8 dohc with about 104,000 on it. Help!! I wanna know all the different possibilites that could be causing this, and one other thing, if it is worn cams, how much would a new set of cams run me and are they hard to replace? Thanks to whomever reads this huge thread and answers ahead of time! :)
 

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Sounds like you need to have your valve buckets shimmed. I don´t know enough about the 1.8L though to be certain though. It may have hydraulic valve lash adjusters....

What weight oil do you use?

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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Thanks to whomever reads this huge thread and answers ahead of time!
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[/TD][/TR][/TABLE] LOL Huge?
 

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It´s normal for it to tap a little bit when you first start it up. It just does that until the oil gets pumped up there at first. IIRC if you run 5w20 oil it will not do it as much because it´s thinner and will get up there quicker. If it doesn´t do it all the time I wouldn´t take it as that big of a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
But it does do it all the time, bad at first, but its still noticable after the engine is warmed up, and no its not the injectors clicks, its definitly the valves clicking, thats why im so worried
 

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no...it shouldnt do that...nor will worn cams cause that. to be worn would be smaller than they used to be so.... u probably have a lifter problem or one of your cylinders isnt firing. i know if a cylinder isnt firing it will click.. this is caused by a worn timing belt or a bad valve or lifter.
 

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5 is the thickness I guess. it´s better to run 5 in the winter, 10 in the summer. the 20 or 30 means it´ll act like 30 weight oil when at temperature.

I was lookin up shit on motor oil and I came across this. look at [email protected]´s post. What a bastard, named the Escort outright and by itself. lol This ass
 

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fuck that bastard..i´m signing him up for all the free porn and adware i can find w/ that email address... i hope the prick has to close his email addy for that shit
 

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Yeah just to clear things up on the oil numbers...

example:

5W-30

The 5 is the viscosity when the oil is cold (lower numbers are thinner)

W is formulated for colder weather (think W for "winter")

The 30 is the viscosity when the oil is warm.

now dance!!! evverybody DANCE!!!

yay!!!!
 

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quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by peter.js:
She agreed that the price that BMW were selling the oil for was ridiculous.

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Which means she drives a ford escort and has no idea what oil does

Uppity asshole.

:-Y
 

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The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

No I´m not smart, I´m just copying and pasting. Say what about copyright infringement? I didn´t see anything about it :-]
 

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LxeTuneR:

it just sounds like you are running a bit low on oil. if you change the oil and you don´t heard the tapping for about a month and then you start to hear it then that it my guess. the 1.8L is notorious for burning oil. infact, all 4cyl engines eat up oil. just check your oil level once a week and watch it.
 

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If i were you i would replace my valve cover gasket anyways, even if you dont think it is leaking that much oil because it could be leaking more than you think like mine and i didnt even know it was leaking untill i did an oil change and i saw the oil that had came down the side of the motor. Besides you need to do it anyways cuz you are leaking some amount of oil, it would be a lot easier than putting in a new cam, and hopefully that would fix your noise problem.
 

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BOO YA....who was it that told me that cars arent designed to burn oil nor did theirs burn oil??? thank you very much slapyo for validating my point. :-]
 

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there may be a very slight amount of oil burn...but not enough to show up within 3000 miles....I have however noticed that at times when I have been very busy and get a bit beyond 3000 miles my oil will be a tad bit low, but I do have 160,000 miles on it and I also attribute a bit to small, very small leaks from when I had it in storage for 3 years while in I was in Europe....but as far as not burning any oil, that would be uncorrect as the oil on the cylinder walls would burn off...tyes the rings do not clean ALL the oil off....lol
 
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