Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by Brendon, Dec 22, 2018.
I replaced the heater core in my 2002 escort se, now the car will not start. Someone help.
We're going to need some more info...
Is it cranking but not starting? Or does nothing happen when you turn the key?
Does the car have power for lights, etc?
I got the dash completely together and couldent find a connection under the steering column. It will turn over about four times and stop. Head lights dash lights as well as turn signals work. I can hear the fuel pump prime.
I cannot figure where this connection goes to.
Automatic shift, correct?
I finally got the car started I took the battery to auto zone to get charged due to my wife loosing my charger. Put it in and it fired right up. I also fixed the issue of the air only coming out of the defrost. Now I’m on to another problem when I start the car it idles around 3000 rpm for around 30 seconds then once to temp it wants to die.
I replaced the idle air control thinking it would be the problem and I replaced the bank one 02 sensor because it threw a code for it. The car has no codes but the idle problem is out of control.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Would the hose in front of the engine cause a problem. I do not know the proper term for the hose.
The PCV hose goes from the crankcase on the front of the engine, to the top of the intake manifold.
If the hose is missing and the hole at the top of the intake is not plugged, that would be a large vacuum leak. If the PCV part on the end of that hose, towards the engine side is missing or damaged, or the hose after the PCV part is damaged, that would create a vacuum leak. Part of that hose is plastic, and sometimes people will crack the plastic, creating a vacuum leak.
Did you make sure your AC vacuum tubes were fully seated when you reinstalled the dash? (just a thought) you should be able to get to them if you remove the center console control.
With the help of my wife I took the dash out and refitted the heater core box. Everything is together. I have looked and looked for vacuum leaking. If I cannot find one tonight I'm going to do a compression test. The car has new head and intake gaskets but I'm sure that doesent me it could have low compression. I was also thinking could coolant have leaked on the ECM to cause the extreme high idle to the low stalling out idle?
on the box is dry orange coolant form when it leaked.
Someone did report running issues as a result of a wet box, but operation returned to normal after they dried out.
It has been dried for awhile it looks like. The person I bought it from bi passed it instead of fixing the heater core. I cannot figure out for the life of me with the high idle with zero codes it’s almosf driving me crazy I still have to replace to the transmission, so I have to get it running right first.
The PCV comments I made earlier were in reference to a second gen 'scort. While present, the setup is a bit different on the third gen you have.
This is a third gen meaning it should have an OBD-II diagnostic port. Does the auto parts place read any codes?
It seems, you don't need to drive it in order to diagnose this... which is good.
Plug off all of the vacuum lines running from the intake. Make sure that the giant ribbed intake plenum running from the intake air cleaner to the throttle body is free of breaches.
With all the vacuum lines plugged at the intake, does the problem still occur?
How to interpret a vacuum gauge...
The other thing that can cause this...
...is bad ignition timing.
You did use obd2 reader and not just looking for light? (making sure bulb for CEL works) you can check this when you first turn key to On position (position 2).
At this point, we're looking for needle in haystack.
Vacuum check by meter is great idea. Maybe egr valve bad? Should can see it on vacuum check.
I have a reader, I plugged it in and checked for codes and there was nothing. I changed the pvc valve today it helped with the car not wanting to die. I have checked everywhere for vacuums leaks but have not used a vacuum tester. I need to figure out why when I start the car it idles at like 6 thousand rpms.
I wouldn't be surprised if vacuum leaks don't really trigger dash lights, since it's not really an emissions issue per say. Were you using a can of brake cleaner to look for leaks? With the prior gen, sometimes leaks would develop around the intake manifold gasket. May try spraying around there.
You'll have to wait until the RPMs come down of course... which means getting a little heat in the engine. The reason for the high RPM is the rich fuel mixture of a cold engine.
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