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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i put all new motor and trans mounts in this car
except for the one one the transmission near the strut tower i have yet to buy it

anyway, there is a frame under the motor and tranny that holds it to the car.

The frame originaly had rubber holding it in, but I did not want to pay 24 dollars for a new set of rubber.

So instead I used washers to replicate the length of the rubber bushings.


After i installed the frame, the car still has aalot of vibration at idle

however that motor mount is not in

is the vibration from the mount missing
or me replacing the rubber bushings on that crossmember with washers?

i think IT might be the missing mount because i drove the car with the crossmemeber removed and it didnt vibrate, and i had the old motor mount in.
 

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If you dont have that motor mount that goes under the battery tray installed - then the mounts on the sides of the tranny are carrying more weight than they normally would. So yes, I think it could let a lot more engine vribration come though into the interior. The two mounts on the front side and rear side of the tansmission mostly keep the engine from twisting under acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
correct because when i was driving with the crossmember removed, the engine clunked when i let off the gas

will those rubber washers under the crossmember missing make a diff? i just used steel washers
 

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the rubber bushings are there to absorb shock/vibration from the motor/transmission. If you replace it with steel, essentially, you are replacing with something that does nothing to absorb the vibrations. I would go buy the rubber. I wouldn't half ass it when it comes to something as serious as the engine and the tranny.
 

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FordEscorter: If you replace the 'steel only' crossmember supports with the original type rubber washers, I hope you will give us feedback on whether it makes the vibration less.
The rubber goodies on the back side of the crossmember for my 92 LX are nearly dissolved from years of the usual oil leaks, and I normally put it into neutral at long traffic lights - because of the vibration.

There are two rubber parts to each of the two rear crossmember supports; one rubber piece that goes above the cross member & which has a steel sleeve on its inside diameter, another that goes below the cross-member, and is rubber but with a dished steel washer inside of it. I had thought about making replacements 'sort of' from rubber cut from the sidewall of an old tire. I would salvage the dished steel washers from the ones I have that are oil soaked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im going to the junkard soon and im going to get a wholenother crossmember with the bushings.
 

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Just sharing my experience on my '91 Pony. I had to change the transmission out, so I had to drop the crossmember. When I went to remove the front two bolts with my air wrench, both nuts that are welded inside the front framerail busted loose. Have I said how utterly RURAL western Kansas is? The local farm supply had lots of grade 5 sae bolts, so I just drilled a 3/8" hole all the way through the framerail, and bolted the crossmember back on that way. The rubber washers were pretty much toast, so I chucked 'em and used steel washers. No noticeable difference. Come on, guys, we're not rebuilding Lexuses (Lexi?) here. I put new motor mounts in a year later, and THAT made a noticeable difference. If Escorter is running around without the upper transmission mount, he's got more vibration coming through the remaining motor mounts than those little rubber washers could ever dream of dampening out.
 

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FordEscorter said:
correct because when i was driving with the crossmember removed, the engine clunked when i let off the gas
Hold on a sec. How could you "drive" with the crossmember out AND the upper transmission mount missing? 8O :?
 
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