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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

So my Escort (1993) Has been making a woo woo sound which increases with the speed of the vehicle. It sounds like its coming from the back wheels. I'm a real beginner when it comes to car so be gentle. I took off the wheel and spun the drum, there was some noise which i'm not sure is normal, hopefully you will be able to hear it on the video. When i pulled off the other wheel (not on the video) when i spun it it sounded like there was something metal touching something, i'm thinking one of the springs may have popped off.

Questions

1. What is the problem?

2. If i'm going to be doing work under there is there anything else i should change/look at?

3. Is there anything i should be doing to pinpoint the problem?

thanks for the help.


One other thing, one of the screws holding the drum in place is totally stripped, I read that its ok just to drill it out, is that true?
 

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those 2 bolts hold no real significance other than to hold the drum on during manufacture



when you drill it out, just make sure theres nothing left for the drum to hang on, make sure you take out the remainder or if you cant grind it flush with the surface the drum sits on


now that drum will damn near be welded on there so you will need some penetrating oil, preferably pb blaster as well as a 10x1.25 I think is the thread pitch of that threaded hole in the drum

you pretty much have to use the bolt to force the drum off by screwing it deep enough to press on the hub



to me it sounds like the wheel bearing is shot, but you might see something else bad when you get in there, the shoes could be metal to medal....who knows. when the drum is off you will be able to turn the hub and feel for any roughness in the bearing. it should feel smooth and fluid. if theres any gritty or rough feeling when you turn it slowly it needs a new bearing.


which is a relatively easy job on the rear of escorts. all you have to do is remove that silver cap in the middle of the hub(usually with a chisel and a hammer, catching it on the edge and driving it off at the greatest angle you can) and removing the 1 large nut and it slides right off


and what I mean with the chisel and hammer is if you tap at it from the side, paralley with the hub, it should at least start to move if not pop out right away. if not work your way around the edge until it comes out. its too easy to poke a hole in the cap if you get really rough with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Celery, Thanks for all the good info.

Here is the stripped screw



After some drilling with a step bit and a couple others i was able to twist out the bolt



not too much damage done, i'm pretty sure that i could get a new bolt to thread in there if i had too.



There wasnt anything loose in there, in fact it looked pretty good. The bearing was a little rough and i'm pretty sure that changing it can only be a good thing.



One concern is the condition of this bit. not sure what its cold but there are lots of imperfections that may be causing some of the rubbing?



I might try and get a bearing tomorrow and pop it on.
 

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if its rubbing on it, you'd be able to see the rust disturbed, or a shiny spot


from the looks of it Id put my money on the bearing... its a start anyway cause its definitely bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Doesnt seem to be rubbing anywhere.

Quick question, i read that i need a torque wrench to tighten the nut on the new bearing, will i get away with a regular wrench, will it damage it if i over tighten it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So this afternoon i changed the bearings.

I wasnt sure just exactly where the cover ended and the hub started so i ended up putting a hole through the cap. On the plus side it made it real easy to get it off!



I got a little surprise when i saw that there was a 'lock' on the nut, once i found a flat head screw driver i was able to hammer it out a little

Before


After


The nut was a little tough to get off, but with a little WD40 and some 1" copper pipe to assist me it came off in the end



The old bearing slid off easily and the new one went on. The old bearing seemed to be in pretty good shape and i've not had a chance to drive the car yet so i hope that i fixed the right problem.



Screwed the old nut back on and hammered the lock thing back down a little bit.



Drum back on, i couldnt resist the poor mans tremclad upgrade

 

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If that paint isn't high temp its going to burn off. Those drums get hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
madmatt2024 said:
If that paint isn't high temp its going to burn off. Those drums get hot.
oh, eh, maybe i wont brake so much? or i wont use the brakes untill i can drive back to the hardware store for the high temp stuff!
 

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Hi Veggie, did you fix your woo woo? :D

I might have a woo woo problem too but not sure if its coming from the front or the rear wheels. I started noticing it when i put my winter tires and rims on. I don't think its my tires b/c they sounded fine on my vw Golf. But perhaps its the vw steelies that are causing the sound?
When you replaced your bearing, does it come with that whole hub assembly with the lugs? If so, it seems like an easy DIY. If its the fronts, then im assuming im going to have to bring my scort wagon in to have them replaced.
 

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paulo, are the steelies hub-centric? if not this can cause issues. if the wheel is relying only on the studs to hold it, the wheel can be off center. add rotation (not to mention the weight of the car resting on the studs which are meant to be in tension, not sheer. the studs hold it to the hub, and the rim on the hub transfers the weight of the car to the wheels) and any number of problems can occur. from slight vibrations to shuddering throughout the entire car. either of these will cause stress to the wheel bearing and hub assembly which can cause premature bearing failure. so if the v-dub wheels are kosher on the v-dub, and all is fine on the ford front when using the original wheels, and swapping causes an issue... hub-centricity is most likely the culprit.
 

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I have a feeling that is the culprit too, Escort_IX!
The vw steelies are not hubcentric unfortunately. They are 57.1mm and our Scorts are 54.1mm. So the rims are held on by the studs only.
I've been looking for some used 14" escort steelies (or compatible), but seems to be harder to find than i thought! Been searching for oem alu rims aswell, but most are out of my price range.
A quick search shows that the Toyota corolla 88-97, Paseo 92-96, and the Kia Rio use similar 14" wheels. (Same hub dia and bolt pattern.)
 

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Yes, my list shows 86-91 celica, 83-97 tercel as well. I think I read your post looking to buy some stockers. Where are you located?
 

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Well, i picked up a set of 14" alu oem 7 spokes with some decent all season tread on them. So i took off my vw's and put these on until i get time to bring it in to the tire shop to swap over the winter tires to my other oem rims in my garage.
I don't mind the look of black steelies in the winter time, but to have a the proper fit of oem and a good cover for the hubs, is better in the long run.
The "woo woo" noise is virtually gone now, so it most likely was the vw steel wheels.
 
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