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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have an old problem with my '94 Escort station wagon 1.9l, which has a bad idle when, for instance, is stop in a red light in (D)rive and brake applied. The rpm's go down to 500's the car shakes a little bit and there is a vibration in the steering wheel, it get worst with the head lights on and almost stalls with the AC on. No codes or check engine lights at all.

Idle OK or not so bad when in (P)ark or neutral. No probs once the car is in motion.

Already tried: new spark plugs and wires, clean PCV valve, no vaccum leaks found, new battery, clean IAC valve, new motor mounts, new PCV hose. As far as I remember. I am planning to replace the O2 sensor.

I was reading in this forum the possibility of a bad or dirty EGR valve and when I looked for it, surprise NO EGR valve nor solenoid installed in the car 8O . In it place I found a couple of hanging connectors.

I suppose the previous car owner removed the EGR thing but I do not know why, if any body has a logical explanation, please let me know it. So far I had no troubles with emissions test.

Also I would like to know how the missing EGR can affect in the car performance or if it has something to do with the bad idle explained before. Would you recommend to install again a new EGR set?

I would appreciate your comments in order to hear about possible causes for this problem ,that is driving me crazy, literally.

Thanks.
 

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my car didnt come with egr at all (93lx)

most bad idle problems are solved by changing the MAF. the maf, like other parts, needs replacing sometimes also. they dont last forever. did you test your alternator to see if its giving the right voltage.. about 14.2-14.7 volts? just because you have a new battery doesnt mean the alternator is charging it.

things to try:
check alt voltage.
try diff MAF.
unplug the pos battery cable, unhook MAF, hook up cable, start car. it wont idle at all.. or if it does it will only for a few seconds... then re attach the MAF and start it again. this workd for me several times.
 

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Yeah I have hanging connectors too but my car came without one so don't worry about it. 8)
 

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FIRST THING TO CHECK...

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR INTAKE TUBE! when you have driveability issues and codes arent thrown make sure your getting all the air into your cylinders that the computer thinks its getting and no more or less. our tubes have a tendancy to tear and when that happens driveability issue start showing up. make sure all the band clamps are tight and there are no holes.
 

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I've got a '91 and it doesn't have an EGR either.

I agree with marclar about the MAF issue. Also, it wouldn't be a bad idea to switch it out anyway to a LARGER one from a '95 or '96.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your info guys, I will try the MAF solution and let your know the findings. By the way MAF = mass air flow sensor, I believe. Which is on the air filter cover just before the air intake big hose, am I right:?:

I already cleaned this sensor with some dielectric spray for electronic devices but never tried to disconnect the battery and reconect the sensor, which I suppose is for the computer to take new MAF readings?

Will chek the alt charge voltage also.

Already installed a new O2 sensor because the car also had bad gas mileage but it did not help to solve the idle problem.

About the intake tubes, I check them and made the test spraying some carb cleaner around vaccum and intake lines and so far no problems found with them. I already replaced the hose that goes from the PCV valve to the intake manifold because it was kind of "strangulated" but no difference.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update, please read.

Low Idle problems whe stop in (D)rive gear continues.

This is what I have done so far:
- Clean de MAF sensor
- Check for air leaks: none found.
- Reset de MAF sensor: disconnect the battery, disconect MAF sensor, start enginge, let it stall, reconect battery and MAF sensor; no difference.
- New O2 sensor, no difference.
- Battery charge OK: 14.56 VDC steady, even with head lights and AC on.

Some time ago I noticed, after Ford dealer service, that the spark plug cables were connected in this order: 1-3-2-4. Later on I read on the Chiltons manual that the order should be: 1-2-3-4 :? . I disconnected the battery changed the order to what chiltons says and found no difference or very litte. Then I wonder what sould be the correct order :?:

I will appreciate your comments.
 

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EGR

Most people are dying to take the EGR System (mandated in 1994, optional before [you probably have a 1993 Build Date]) out of their cars... to get better performance.
It's not practical nor desirable to retrofit an EGR System... it's more than the 2 empty sensor positions: The Valve System & Vacuum System.

Amazing Little Engine:
Firing Order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 (Ford Escort Service Manual)
The the CoilPack is arraged to number wires in CounterClockWise fashion: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4...where the rear connector is under the 1 - 2 wires.
 
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