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Discussion Starter #1
my struts are shot, for about the last 20k miles. its a bouncy ride... not sure the risks of not replacing them.

however, the front left wheel bearing i was told needs to be replaced. i have 100k miles on my 98 escort SE

which is the bigger concern and why?

thank you for your assistance! i know basic tuneup stuff but brakes/struts/bearings/seals i always want a better opinion.
 

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does the wheel bearing make noise? if it does then it needs replaced asap.

the suspension should be done soon as well, but unless the struts are physically broken you can limp by until tax time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
other than bumpy ride, why replace the struts/suspension? sorry for the bonehead question. improve mpg? prevent axle from snapping? etc. any specifics?

for wheel bearing, im not sure what noise i should be looking for. i was told to replace it in an inspection today but didnt get to see it myself. its the front left wheel bearing.

i guess i should look for squeeling/grinding noises (havn't noticed any) but it does turn left a bit oddly. it also vears left even after allignments.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5805950_wheel-b ... laced.html
 

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Worn out struts can be dangerous, because all the bouncing can cause loss of control.

If the wheel bearing goes completely out you'll be stranded on the side of the road.

Personally I'd do the front wheel bearing and front struts all at the same time while I had everything in the front end apart instead of having to tear into it twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my rear struts are bad... front are good.

i think i will do my wheel cylinder + rear struts first

then this summer my wheel bearing
 

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jerger, take a close look (feel around bottom) at the back springs. Many times you will find a broken one. My 93 LX and 2000 SE had broken springs in the back. I had bad rear struts, got into the repair job and found the broken spring on the 93. When I got my 2000 SE that was one of the first things I checked. All the struts were good but I found one broken rear spring. Monroe Quick-Strut units are sometimes better to get than just buying struts.
 

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bent_rod said:
jerger, take a close look (feel around bottom) at the back springs. Many times you will find a broken one. My 93 LX and 2000 SE had broken springs in the back. I had bad rear struts, got into the repair job and found the broken spring on the 93. When I got my 2000 SE that was one of the first things I checked. All the struts were good but I found one broken rear spring. Monroe Quick-Strut units are sometimes better to get than just buying struts.
Until you get the bearing repaired be listening for a loud roaring, popping or grinding noise. Any of these signs can mean the bearing is about to go out especially the popping or grinding noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thank you guys.

how hard are quick struts for newbs? not sure how i would go about doing this
 

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I've never used quick struts, but since it doesn't involve having to remove the strut from the spring it should be pretty easy, just removing a few bolts and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea looks like it! now i need to know if on the 98 se sohc if they are accessable from the backseat or trunk. from what ive gathered on the net it could be either for the top bolts
 

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Rear Strut removal 2000 Escort SE (4 door)
Start inside passenger compartment
1. Remove rear seat, bottom then back
2. Remove left and right side cushions, first remove bottom nuts, then lift to unhook top of cushion
3. Remove center brake light
4. Remove child seat mount hardware
5. Remove rear shelf trim strip, then shelf
6. Remove rubber cover from top of strut. Don't remove the center nut under the cover
7. Remove the two outer nuts on each of the top strut mounts
As I recall the steps I used to get the top strut mounts out.





 

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Discussion Starter #13
holly crap you rock!

if you have any more photos, tips please share! (bottom part)

also im going the quick strut route since im broke
 

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The bottom part is simple. Remove the two nuts and bolts that are on the bottom part of the strut. I use a floor jack to support the weight of the wheel & hub assembly. The rusted bolts can be hard to knock out. Don't just hit the end of the bolt, put the nut back on the bolt so you are hitting the nut not the bolt threads. If you have ABS brakes take care not to harm the sensor. I removed the sensor before taking off the strut.

Edit: I forgot the brake line that is attached to the strut. I used a large screw driver and hammer to knock loose the clip on the fitting.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
again u rock. i read a few non-escort guides that recommend spraying some deruster like PB buster on it for a day in advance. do you think thats possible to reach without jacking it up and taking off the wheels the day before?

otherwise im thinking > jack car > block it etc. take of wheels, spray it > wait a few hours >replacement

also anything i could grease while i have the wheel off to prolong the life of things near this area?
 

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Now that you know what to spray you should be able to reach in and spray the nuts with some PB buster. That may help with getting off the two large nuts but you need to spray the bolts again after the nuts are off. The spray only helps so much, a heavy weight mallet most likely will be needed on the bolts. If you don't have access to an air wrench you may need to use a pipe to fit over the wrench handle to add extra force to get the nuts and bolts loose.
When reassembling I use Loctite® Anti-Seize Lubricant on the bolt shaft and Permatex® Blue Threadlocker on the threads. After the parts are all installed I wire brush and spray paint any rusted parts, but not the brake drum.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i found a place that did the brake bleeding, two wheel cylinders adn the front wheel bearing for 300$

i'm happy!

tires plus wanted 700$ i didnt trust them at all after they failed to rotate my tires. i was there 3 hours, i saw them take the tires off my car, put them back on and that was it. i had to have them do it again, the 2nd time they didnt do the x pattern. i gave up
 

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keep away from the national chains. A good local shop is the way to go most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yep, learned my lesson. i go to this small family shop now the "quiet zone" in milwaukee. their cost with labor and parts is cheaper than parts at any chain place like tires plus. my final price is usually about 30% of the total cost at a nation wide place like tires plus or car x.

i had my rear wheel bearings and hubs replaced for 230$ vs tires plus for 700$!!! and finally i have peace and quiet. love it.

now i just need new rear struts/springs, rear tires and front breaks. can't wait!
 
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