are the drums warped? cause if not just deglaze them.
the drums they make these days are thin/cheap metal, sometimes one cut can true-out the contact surface.
organic pads are the best for drum wear and the worst for pad life.
a compromise is a compromise.
i tried carbon/kevlar pads, they suck for around town use.
the pads also ran-down my rotors to nothing :-Y .
it´s a good thing my shop lets me fu** around with my junks, or i´d be spending alot of money on stupid sh**
The drums take a pair of standard 10mm medium thread bolts to back the drum off the hub.
Can anyone tell me how to adjust these things now? I see how the adjuster changes the length.. but I can´t figure out by what means they´re activated. Do I just hit the brakes while rolling backwards? If so, that´s not working. My pedal is better with new pads, but being out of adjustment my pedal still drops too far to the floor.
I´ll try bleeding them again w/ a pressure bleeder next week.
to simply state my meager experiences , I found that a hard backup and slam the brakes on would straighten my crown vic out almost every time . of course my problem was in wet weather my brakes would throw me through the windshield just by touching them . very annoying and potentially dangerous . never found out why she did that but even after I traded her she remained true to form by nearly sending my salesman through the windshield . :-o crazy car , kinda miss her in spite of her problems . that happens when a car has been a good one . I feel that way already about my escort . but yes a hard back up then slam on the brakes do it a couple of times if need be should at least help some . good luck . :-D
With rear drums, you need to make sure that you take up most of the travel when you put them on. to adjust them just put the car in reverse, move and hit the brake. the more free travel you left in the shoes the more times you need to stop and start in reverse before they are adjusted. It only moves a little each time.