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"Dang fuel pressure was at 30psi after all that only upped it to 35psi"

Has your gauge been calibrated? Gauges are very commonly out quite a bit.

Using the Shraeder valve as an attachment for a pressure gauge is okay for testing, but pretty risky for any extended time, as the connection is weak and relies on a rubber sealing ring.
A better way is to get a spare fuel rail and silver solder on some 1/8 NPT fittings.
I've kept an eye on mine and after a couple years it's still going strong with no leaks or anything.

John
 

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I've read this book at least ten times and still don't fully understand it but it is invaluable in trying to understand how suspensions work at high speed and how to set up your car for whatever environment you're going to be putting it in.



John
I would hope they would have a whole section on the old Mopar suspensions. The torsion bar front ends with offset bushing upper control arms worked exceptionally well. Almost no nose drive on hard braking, forces transferred directly in to the frames and extremely low roll axis. The rear axles with the offset leaf springs that acted like traction bars and built in anti roll bars also worked very well. I had a small block 74 Dart which I upgraded to heavier torsion bars and springs and a little 3/4 to 7/8 inch front roll bar and Diplomat 15x7 rims with gatorbacks. I could outrun z 28's preludes etc on clover leafs and out brake Lincoln mark VIIs
 

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I think I finally figured out my clunk in the right back end. The swaybar endlink was loose. Tightened it up and most of the clunk is gone. I guess I'll need to get a new Moog endlink...The nice hard polythylene kind.
 

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My 92 wagon developed a clunk in the right rear. In that case it was a broken ring near the top of the suspension spring. A new strut fixed it.
 

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Great job and congrats on the MX-3 seats! Wish I could find/afford some. If anyone is curious my wagon-no start problem is posted over on the 3rd gen. section.

Have not posted here in quite a while due to poor health of elderly parents.
 
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