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I have spent a couple years procrastinating on this:

I stripped my 99% rust free 91 lx's interior for paint and sound deadening 3 YEARS AGO. Then I ruined my tailgate and bumper and it sat. Then it warped the block due to the low speed fan not turning on sometimes.
Then it sat again.

The car is from AZ, has only been in Ohio for a few years.

I have a buddy swapping the motor from my rusty spare wagon. It has 45k on the rebuilt head and I trust it.

It costs the same to fully rebuild a motor as it cost to just have my buddy swap my other one.

Anyway. Inside.

I myself have been pulling the dash out to seal the windshield, , rustproof/paint/deaden every square inch inside the cabin and doors, remove dash, seal windshield, wire amplifiers and run heavier wire to all the speakers, install new steering wheel, swap steering column YOLK, install Speedo cable, and finish it off with new carpet.

That list inside is partially done.

Outside, I am swapping tailgates, bumpers, pulling rubber plugs for rust proofing, undercoating, painting exhaust and shields, and installing this nightmare of a hitch receiver.

Now that we have both engines out, I can give the engine bay a touch up with acid, polish, and paint.

All of the aluminum will be rinsed and washed with aluminum brightener, then sprayed with a poly "wax" such as a motorcycle detailer spray.

Fortunately, my buddy is a bargain and handling the engine swap. The list is long enough, and that's the level of detail the silver escort deserves. Great colors, and only specks of rust here and there, nothing to be concerned about. On areas with no rust; I used whatever paint was laying around. Hi temp near and on the exhaust, and I have yet to purchase floor paint.

I am taking my sweet time to make sure this thing DOES NOT RUST. Theres like 100 rubber plugs that can be pulled and paint sprayed inside. I spent several hours behind the rear axle alone.

Every broken tab will be solder welded back together, all burnt bulbs replaced, and all metal clips stolen off the parts car. It's very exicting to me!

I'm hoping its drivable by Monday evening, and pretty much wrapped up.

I am doing no exterior paint work at this time. The car does have extensive hail damage. The rustproofing it my real priority right now.
 

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"was to find out a slow leaker tire on my 92LX wagon was 'non-fixable' (at least according to them)".

Back to tires... I occasionally install tubes in my tires to save them. A good tire shop keeps them in stock, and the last two I bought last year (for larger 14/15 tires) cost about $15 each.

Many years ago the plug kits sold at our local "Canadian Tire" stores claimed "fast, permanent repairs". The next time I saw the kit at the store it was identical except that it claimed "emergency, temporary repair only".

I have had a couple of tire failures (front and back) over the years at 50-60mph, none was dramatic and I merely noticed the car pulling hard to one side. So I pulled over to see a flat, wrecked tire. I believe none was on a tire I plugged.

I also have a manual bead breaker and tire spoons, so mount and dismount tires myself, avoiding a lot of tire shop hassles.
 

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@Pizzaman5000 - Welcome to rustville! Be sure to pull down those rear struts, squeeze a bunch of RTV Silicon Gasket Maker on top of the strut mount, squish it up there, watch it expand as it cures. https://www.feoa.net/threads/no-srtut-tower-rust.82678/#post-734080
I actually do need to take the rear struts off. I may do just what you are saying!

The rust spots I am finding are really only where salty water is getting into the interior! Ie the strut towers and these little spots on the raised portion of the rear bench. Its only minor bubbles and coloration thankfully.
 

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Be very wary of the bubbles. Bubbles be bad. As noted in that thread, left untreated, the progression was amazingly fast. Also, the rear end of my vehicle looked pretty good because the original undercoat was basically intact. But knocking around back there with my fingers and knuckles... I knew it was aaalllll rust. Normal jack-up points, even though they looked fine, would literally start to crush if you put a jack under them. (could only jack up the rear by the cross-member) Despite a healthy front end, my steering wheel was getting more and more off-center as it's last years were going by and wouldn't be surprised if there was a tiny bit of crab-walking going on.
 

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Be very wary of the bubbles. Bubbles be bad. As noted in that thread, left untreated, the progression was amazingly fast. Also, the rear end of my vehicle looked pretty good because the original undercoat was basically intact. But knocking around back there with my fingers and knuckles... I knew it was aaalllll rust. Normal jack-up points, even though they looked fine, would literally start to crush if you put a jack under them. (could only jack up the rear by the cross-member) Despite a healthy front end, my steering wheel was getting more and more off-center as it's last years were going by and wouldn't be surprised if there was a tiny bit of crab-walking going on.
I will never let this baby get that bad! I am thoroughly popping any bubbles, and trying to attack those areas at as many angles as possible.

For today, I told my buddy I want a whole day to detail my engine components before install.

Using two of my go-to's for detailing
Liquid Water Fluid Drink Plastic bottle

I used to have access to an amazing purple wheel cleaner that smelled like sulfuring acid etc, but left the aluminum with an armor all/wax type sealant instead of leaving raw aluminum to oxidize. Unfortunately, the used car boss cut ties with the company and I forget the product as it had no label.
 

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here's that horrible and unexpected rust spot that gave me nightmares. Its the worst on the whole car (aside from the 91' egr tube behind the engine) and its INSIDE the car. This is the driver side rear bench.

I guess it can get there during a trip, but not during a car wash... Or my car washes leave that area soaked.
Automotive tire Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Auto part
 

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What swap are you doing?
He's gonna stick a Turbo LS7 in there. In order to better balance the car, half the engine will be in the trunk.
 

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What swap are you doing?

John
No swap. Just repair.
I drove it around for a while; always forgetting the cooling fan wasnt working on its own. It got hot a few times in drive through lines during the winter with the air conditioning turned off.

I put the rebuilt head on maybe 25k ago. Then it got hot a few times and blew the hg between 3-4 twice in 5k miles. I didnt want to deck the block then, and I still feel the same.

My rusty wagon that my brother has driven has 45k on its rebuilt head and head gasket. The car is rotten beyond repair and I trust the engine. I'm just throwing it in my favorite wagon and living with it.
I figure instead of doing my own labor and buying rebuild parts; I would rather pay my buddy to pull and install them. Same cost, less effort

I have an extensive list of needs and wants aside from the motor; so this made my project seem a little more enjoyable. Plus I had money burning a hole in my pocket.
In my defense the steering column, dash, carpet, and tailgate have to come off.

I actually bought a 1996 5spd wagon two days ago. It had a mushy clutch and is silver. I assumed it was the same color, its not. I fixed the clutch master.

So I have a sweet little base lx as well now. It came with a notarized title and plates (need to check my laws, and I have spare plates anyway) so I have options.

It has noisy snow tires, and the brakes need freed up a tad although they aren't horrible. Shift linkage could be smoother, and better adjusted. Debating any improvements, as it came with new battery, wires, plugs, and oil change. Its set up for flat towing too, and wired to make the escort lights work in tow. Only 113k on the odometer too!!!
I don't want to dump 700 in fluids and fixes in an escort I plan to sell for 800.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle

Automotive parking light Land vehicle Car Tire Wheel

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Window Vehicle door
 

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Not today, but this week. I installed a S/R PCM and refinished the valve cover in blue in my recently Zetec swapped wagon. I replaced the shifter pivot bushings and added a Energy Suspension bushing kit to the shifter.
 

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Been enjoying the gren wagon again (despite the wanky clutch- long story)!
Automotive parking light Car Automotive side marker light Wheel Tire

I did clean it up last weekend, but it almost looks this dirty again due to work's parking lot...
 

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Finally got it inspected.
 
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Not mine but I replaced a cylinder head on my friends 95 wagon 1.9 . The head was bent and the cam barely turned by hand. It was pissing coolant out the tail pipe. My machine shop actually broke the head trying to straighten it. Luckily they had a good core and we were able to save the car.
 

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Replaced the shifter PRNDL light - I had replaced it last year with an LED but apparently it went bad already. I put in another LED - but this is a different style lol

While I had the console apart, I swapped in the 98-up style console with deeper cup holders. I couldn't stand those shallow cup holders!

Also put a screw in the console armrest to secure it from flopping around.
 

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Pulled the rear door and cargo interior panels and soundproofed/ insulated them. Swapped in the correct 3/4 inch Moog problem solver frame bushings for the rear swaybar. With the panels pulled it is going to go off to Ziebart to be rustproofed. This Southern CA 1998 Zetec wagon ain't going to last long in Chicago without some protection. I'm going to have them seal the top inside of the rear wheel wells where these cars always rust and the bottom of my bent up rear passenger door to seal the broken seam. I'll make sure they get the rocker panels too. I plan on pulling the headliner next year so I can remove the roof rack and replace it with plain rails and then insulate/ sound proof that. I hope to do the firewall and hood too. Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Cylinder
Wood Bumper Asphalt Floor Flooring
 
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