What did you do to your wagon today? | Page 25 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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What did you do to your wagon today?

Discussion in 'Escort Wagons' started by NightWulf, Dec 29, 2010.

  1. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    PHEW! Good thing I started this project early. Replaced the entire rear subframe with the one I pulled from a '91 GT. Now I have rear disc brakes!:D I had to drop the exhaust to get it out and in. The MX3 bar hit the gas tank so I had to reinstall it upside down. Since I was alone and didn't have a trans jack to lower and raise the subframe I went ahead and lifted the car just enough so that the wheels just came off the pavement. I unbolted the subframe and let it drop on the wheels. I loosened the lug nuts prior to all this. I unbolted the trailing arms, brake lines and parking cables and pulled the entire subframe out. I used my 3 ton jack to raise the new subframe into position, bolted it in and connected brake lines, trailing arms, parking brakes cables, exhaust and wheels. Bled the brakes and gave it a test run. No issues. I didn't need to use the Tracer MC as the brakes worked fine so I'm going to return it.

    After that I drank a few beers(it was freaking hot today!:eek:) I raised the front end, put it on jacks and dug into replacing the water pump that started leaking after I did a radiator and engine flush. Once I got everything out of the way I noticed the tensioner was metal to metal when I spun it so after I pulled the water pump and tensioner I took a trip to the parts store and picked up a new water pump, new timing belt and new tensioner and installed it.

    I'm tired.....

    But she runs nice now. The car is a little quieter, probably from the tensioner, along with the engine not shaking so much when I turn on the A/C.

    John
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  2. mcph3rson

    mcph3rson FEOA Member

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    new front speakers.. from 3rd gen escort lol. Sounds awesome at 75mph both windows down.
    2 new aftermarket cassette decks. First one was frigged up, 2nd one an Alpine was gonna be sweeet once I put new belts in it. Got my 2 new belts within 3 car stereos and 2 portable tape decks but popped a plastic actuator arm off. Very confusing, hours, gave up. Gonna add aux jack and throw this in sister's Escort. And back to the junkyard with my $10 I will be.
  3. blink32

    blink32 FEOA Member

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    Since my wagon is a basic bitch I flushed the brake fluid, swapped spark plugs, new wipers all around and tinted just the hatch.
  4. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    Which wagon, I have two 97s Escort wagons. One for my Dobermans and I. The second one is people only. . Bought it from the old orginonal owner, he valve seat dropped at around 90,000. p
    ayed
  5. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I have fixed two problems on my 92LX station wagon, and expect I will need to fix both of them on my other two wagons, plus the two other wagons in the family. I imagine these same chores will be needed, or may have been done already, on most 2nd generation Escort station wagons.
    The problems:
    1. The wires between running between the body and the rear gate get cracked from age and the flexing from gate opening, and eventually they break. I had done a repair to two of the eight wires a few years ago - but now had some wires breaking just inside the body where I could not reach them.
    2. The little screws holding the lenses of the license plate lights get so rusted up that the phillips head 'cross' disappers. If you cant unscrew them, you cant replace a dead bulb, and it would fail the next annual inspection or get you a ticket.

    For the first probem, I removed the plastic trim panel from the innner side of the gate, so I could detach the wiring harness from all the things it was connected to. From the body I removed the passenger side trunnk panel and the trim panel around that right rear window. This exposed the harness that runs upward to the gate. I unclipped it from the various things holding it & unplugged it from its connector. Then I could feed the harness up through the hole in the body (the gate being open), the movement making the original wire loop larger. From the guts of the gate I also unclipped all the connectors, then worked that harness up and out through the similar hole in the upper right corner of the gate. I had already pried the grommets out to do this.
    Then I began splicing in new wires, from about 6 inches on each side of where the middle of the loop had been. One by one I clipped out about 12" from each wire in the harness. I spliced in new wires of the same size as those in the harness, with new supple and uncracked insulation. Each wire was about 13" long to allow for my lapped splice joints. Each splice also got two layers of heat shrink tubing to cover the splices.
    I wrapped the reconstituted harness with black electrical tape to stop the sunlight, & fed the wires back into place; so the visible wire loop was about the same size/length as the original had been. Then I put all the other stuff back.

    The second task I did by removing the lomg black plastic license light support. It is held onto the car by 3 nuts on studs, two supports using small phillips head screws easily accessible with the gate trim panel removed, AND One Fat Rusty phillips head screw visible from the outside if you open the gate halfway. This is a 6mm thread machine screw, and has not come out easily on any of the three wagons I have in my driveway.
    On my 94LX I was able to free it up to unscrew, using one of those hand held impact tools. On the 92LX I used a dremel moto tool to grind a sort of slot in it, and even then I had to heat the captive nut from the inside with my oxy-acetylene torch before the impact tool would turn it. In spite of making up a heat shield, I almost set fire to the handle for opening the gate.
    With that license ight bracket removed from the car, I could reach the rusted heads of the screws with the cutoff wheel of the Dremel; to cut slots in them - so I could unscrew them and replace the old screws with stainless screws from home depot. (I used #8 by 5/8" phillips head screws). While I was at it I cleaned up the lenses, the back half of the lamp housings, and put in new bulbs. I didnt use #194 bulbs, but used #161's instead. They are a smaller wattage, so as to not melt the lamp housings any further.

    This work took me quite a while, spread over almost a week of an hour or so each day. The labor cost of having this done would likely result an owner who doesnt do his own work in giving up and just junking the car.
  6. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    Might want to hit those stainless screws with some anti-sieze just to be sure.

    John
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  7. Badwag

    Badwag FEOA Member

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    My wagon is getting amake over. Used vinyl and fabric paint to change interior from tan to black and it looks pretty good. IMG_20151028_175027778.jpg
  8. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    Love to see how that works for you. Please post after pics to see the results. I've been told that it doesn't last very long if you don't prep the surface before painting it. I also heard it leaves a paint smell in the car.

    John
  9. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    Pinstriped my wagon. Took about 45 min. Looks good and breaks up my wagon.
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  10. dchawk81

    dchawk81 FEOA Member

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    Rust breaks up my wagon. No need for pinstripes here. :D :p
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  11. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    LOL! Look at it as one of a kind!
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  12. dchawk81

    dchawk81 FEOA Member

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    Too bad it's actually one of many.
  13. Maxwelhse

    Maxwelhse FEOA Member

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    Can confirm. I painted some mismatched interior parts with "dye" and the stuff came off after a few weeks even with proper prep. I think it would be fine for stuff that never gets touched, but anything like door panels and arm rests it doesn't hold up. The odor wasn't a big deal though.

    Out of curiosity, what products did you use Badwag? Maybe I just got a hold of some bad stuff. I think it was Duplicolor.
  14. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    I've had pretty good luck painting interior pieces. I usually do a pass of wax & degreaser, let it evaporate for a few minutes then some adhesion promoter, let it sit for 5 minutes and spray. Even some moderate traffic areas have stayed like knew but heavy traffic areas will see some wear.

    I've tried most all the brands and for me SEM seems to hold up the best. The other ones like Duplicolor/Rustoleum/Krylon are pretty close so if you can find some on sale do it.

    John
  15. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    Got my fog lights in, wasn't that bad to put them in. Though I did have to grind down the fog light housings to make them fit. I smoked the fog lights, before I installed them, and they look killer. The worst part was going to O'reilly's four times today. That took about an hour and a hour and a half.
  16. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    After I put the fog lights in. I then put a bra on my wagon. Gives it a very aggressive look.
  17. novanutcase

    novanutcase FEOA Member

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    Pics or it didn't happen! Lol!

    John
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  18. Blitzter

    Blitzter FEOA Donator

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    Oh it did happen! All post pics in a few days
  19. Badwag

    Badwag FEOA Member

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    Well, last night fixed 45 vacuum leaks, changed balance, crank position sensor, and plug wires, and one right rear tire. Today, might paint gt grille white to match car.
  20. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Next time, I hope you'll avoid having this guy perform your vehicle inspection.

    [​IMG]

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