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As far as I know, all of the Escort automatic transmissions, from the 2nd gens in 1991 through the end of Escort production used the "4EAT" type transmission, with 4 forward gears - the 4th one being an overdrive ".7" ratio. Third gear is the one that is 1.0 to 1.0, with the final drive ratio being 3.55 in that gear - except some wagons having a final drive ratio of 4.055 in 3rd.
There is a thread about gear ratios in the "drivetrain" subforum;
http://www.feoa.net/posts/643264/

I believe the manual transmissions were all 5-speeds on the 2nd and 3rd generation Escorts.
The owners manuals mention using the 'Drive' position of the shifter with the automatic transmission, when driving in suburbs and urban areas; and not using the 'OverDrive' position until you are on a limited access or high speed road, going steadily above 50 mph. I do this, and it eliminates many many of those 3rd to 4th & back to 3rd shifts, when driving in suburbs or towns. It also eliminates a lot of wear in the transmission, and gives better speed control when coasting to a traffic light stop. My escort with the automatic transmission seems happy in 3rd, well up into the 70 mph speeds. Useful for going up long upgrades, like the "grapevine" going north out of LA on I-5.
As far as swapping transmissions, or engine types either, I have no info; never plan to do it and probably would never buy such a modified Escort, except for a parts car. Its too easy to just buy an Escort with the engine and transmission I want, and to fix them.
 

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This past weekend I pulled the front calipers and pads and cleaned and lubed all the plates, I have the sound (only from right front) when I apply the brakes. I thought it might be the anti squeak wore off, but still does it. Maybe a bearing or something, I will have to check it out this weekend if I get a chance. Cars runs fine and handles fine no pulling to one side or the other when brakes are applied and pads have a lot of life left of them.
 

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Spotted a small coolant leak under my car the other day. I had initially thought it was coming from the water pump, since I put it on but couldn't fit a torque wrench in, so had to "guess" the tightness of the bolts. I went around with a black light last night, and it appears the drivers plastic side of my radiator is leaking.. everything else looked clean. Is it pretty common for that to go when it's really cold outside?
 

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Its fairly common for those radiators to leak that way when they are old enough, and it doesnt take cold weather to do it. Just normal aging, and some of them will start to leak where the plastic side tank attaches to the aluminum 'core'. The one in my 91LX began to leak in NM in July; very hot weather. It was the original radiator I think, so was 21 years old & with about 150k miles on it. It was a slow leak, a teaspoonful of the Barr's gray stop leak made it stop. I replaced it about 3000 miles later when we were back home in VA.
I have six Escorts in my family, and that one is the only one to have had a leak so far; though I have replaced two others that werent leaking yet; just because of their age and mileage. I wanted the peace of mind for my daughter's Escort and my nephew's Escort (he's a college student with a long commute).
At least the Escort radiators are fairly inexpensive. I got them for well under $100 each. With my Winnebago I had to get the radiator cleaned or recored every ten years, which was about 40k miles of use. And the recoring cost $500. It was a massive radiator.

My favorite radiator shop now refuses to clean or repair the radiators with the aluminum/plastic construction, since they dont stay fixed.

And I Do Not endorse the use of Barr's stop leak - its just that it has worked for me on a couple of cars over the years, used in very small quantities. And I only use the gray product. I consider that the Barr's Heavy Duty Stop Leak (black in color) is either for huge radiators like a bulldog Mack would have, or just to get you back home.
 

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This past weekend I pulled the front calipers and pads and cleaned and lubed all the plates, I have the sound (only from right front) when I apply the brakes. I thought it might be the anti squeak wore off, but still does it. Maybe a bearing or something, I will have to check it out this weekend if I get a chance. Cars runs fine and handles fine no pulling to one side or the other when brakes are applied and pads have a lot of life left of them.
Envision the caliper sliding back and forth over a slightly warped rotor. If it's a low-pitched repetitive noise it can be your caliper slide mounts.
http://www.feoa.net/threads/brake-rotor-distortion-again-1991-escort-pony.83144/#post-737381
http://www.feoa.net/threads/brake-rotor-distortion-again-1991-escort-pony.83144/page-2#post-737977
 

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Today I finished putting my 94 Escort wagon back together. I had to replace the clutch as it was beginning to slip, with only 60k miles travelled since I replaced it when I bought the car, about 5 years ago. The oil pan gasket had been oozing, and the oil getting on the clutch may have been the reason it didnt last longer. I did the work over a period of 3 weeks, due to chilly rainy weather, my gall stones acting up, and not being in a hurry. I hoisted the engine & trans out together to do it; also replaced the timing belt and tensioner, the radiator hoses, front shifter bushings, the drivers side CV axle, the high pressure power steering hose, all of the freeze plugs, and the clutch slave cylinder. This time I got the flywheel refaced, as the wearing surface was recessed about .010” below the original surface.
 

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well the noise went away after a couple of days...but this past weekend I changed the cluster from a non-tach version to a Tach version, love the plug and play of the 98...
 

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Where did you pull the tach version out of? How hard was it to replace?

John
Tachs are found in the sport version of the Escort. I think 97's haven them. At least I've noticed a lot of them with them in junkyards.

Not hard to replace. Just remove a few trim pieces.
 

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Got if from a 4 door version Escort, also took the trim piece since my was cracked. But easy to do, just be careful when you remove the trim piece, you don't want to break it! Be sure to check all the bulbs, then plug in a start car check all works and button it up.
 

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Got if from a 4 door version Escort, also took the trim piece since my was cracked. But easy to do, just be careful when you remove the trim piece, you don't want to break it! Be sure to check all the bulbs, then plug in a start car check all works and button it up.
Marks.jpg


I have had good luck with using a big Flathead screw drive where the red lines are. I did this on 3 different cars, and none cracked.
 

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Thanks for the write up. Maybe I'll go visit my local yard and see if I can find one.

John
You're welcome. Before you re-install all the trim, turn your lights on and go for a drive to make sure the tach and speedometer are working. Also, temp gauge will probably hang around 1/4 rather than 1/2 like it does on non tachs on 3rd gens. Simple to fix with 2 spoons.

Let car warm up to normal temp. Take two spoons and put them under the circle of the temp needle. Pry up on both evenly and the needle will come off. With the car warmed up position needle sticking at halfway. May take a few tries to get it aligned perfectly.
 

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Just make sure to grab one from a sedan or wagon. The one from the ZX2 coupe won't fit.
 

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Just bought a cluster with tach for $30 off of ebay. Looks like it's in pretty good condition too! Is there a white face kit that I can install on the gauge cluster before I install it in the car?



If I reposition the temp needle will it stay at 1/4 even if it is cold?

John
 

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