Could you post some pics of how it looks?Speaking of vacuum leaks... :doctor:
Got a few minutes today to fix the cracked stock PCV hose on my '99, which has that silly driver's side elbow that guaranteed to crack getting off the intake tube (if the tube port doesn't crack first). Ford hasn't carried it for at least five years (at least at my ghetto dealer). NAPA however sells a coolant hose with a similar elbow in the same-size diameter, so $10, new one on, 'proofed further with a couple of zipties...
The old one wasn't badly cracked... but rocky enough that everytime I pulled the intake tube for service it cracked a bit more. When inquiring about swapping it at NAPA (an island of 150K people doesn't have the 'luxury' of choice in DIY auto parts stores you mainlanders take for granted ), the sales droid claimed PCV hoses were special and that coolant hoses used as such would live very short lives (riiiiight... maybe for diesels ). Pulling the old one, there was a white coating on the inside of it on the valve cover side, but was flexible & otherwise identical to a coolant hose, which is already rated to over 270 degF (SAE 20R3 and 20R4). The plastic PCV seemed fine as well. So if the heat in this hose got high enough to rock up rubber (300+ degF), it didn't do it often enough to hurt anything. Besides, even if it failed every year, it's only $10 to swap it.
Fit perfectly (NAPA pt# 10801, Gates 18801) when trimmed to length. Went for a drive to see what was what...
I'll be dammited... right out of the NAPA parking lot warm, response seemed to go down a hair, but the car became very smooth, esp off-idle and on trailing throttle. If madmatt2024's theory about protective richness in PCM mapping is correct, that's what caused a slight fat feeling to return (and why the car with a leaking PCV hose, felt more powerful off the line -- the MAF was measuring airflow low, as extra O2 leaked in upstream at the PCV port, making the motor run lean). But once the engine shook around a bit and that cracked hose leaked randomly more or less air, the O2 sensors would try to adjust for conditions that were too chaotic -- wasting vast amounts of fuel...
I know this, since on my test drive of ~24 mi, the A/C was on the whole time, and the car seemed to shrug it off (much like it does after you reconnect the battery after a service). Under the exact same conditions, I've watched my fuel needle go a quarter of a quarter tank on the same drive, A/C on. That's 21 mpg, horrible on a mostly-highway, 55-mph run. But after the fix, not only did the car not drop as much power at cruising speeds, but got way less thirsty. First time that's happened with this car -- it would get okay mileage on long drives with the A/C off, but never with it on.
Not to mention, the off-idle stutter's no longer a stutter -- it's a tiny hiccup now. Still there, still due to broken mount rocking... but no more one-one-thousand masturbation pause, until the wheels finally pull me forward. :nailbiting: Trans likes the tighter, smoother engine output as well (think it was either Intuit or zzyzzx who clued me in to the F4EAT autos hating flaky engine output -- this proves that hunch right).
Also noticed other things strong vacuum improved -- the brakes most noticeably. Even HVAC controls sound different, as the doors are vacuum-operated (not as noisy and slightly faster-acting now).
Betcha didn't think a hose elbow could affect your car's demeanor so negatively, huh? Thought I had it covered... apparently not. Thanks a bunch Ford, for not letting aftermarket suppliers sell this part... but the alternative luckily is $10 (prolly $5-$6 anywhere else), snip-snip and on. :thumbsup: