What did you do to your 3rd gen today?? | Page 4 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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What did you do to your 3rd gen today??

Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by ndlm8888, Aug 2, 2013.

  1. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    I could never find replacement door panel clips for my 3rd gen either, till last week. I went into a autobody supply store to buy some paint for a friend's car I am doing some body work on and I saw what looked like them in a display. Too bad I sold the car a week ago.:banghead:
  2. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    Kanak

    When you say door retaining clips, are you taking about the black and cream colored clips that hold the door panel to the door?
  3. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Yep -- door panel retaining clips, if that makes more sense...

    Been to two NAPAs, the joke Ford dealership here, and several Ford resource sites... and no one can tell me in an exploded diagram *here* what this clip's part number or other identifying code is, so I can go to clipsandfasteners.com or other to get them. The factory knew to order a pushcart of *this* clip and send it to a line worker to install *here* and not somewhere in the trunk... so I'm not sure why it's so friggin' difficult to get the same part in the aftermarket... :banghead:

    Well, there aren't any salvage yards of any usefulness here, but there are a few body shops -- it does make sense they'd know better over a NAPA... will ask around this week. :thumbsup:
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  4. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    When I had to replace a door panel I could not find them either. I ended up going to junkyard and grabbed about 25 of them. I could grab some from a junkyard this weekend and send some to you.
  5. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Wow thanks Gamer, that'd be great... :thumbsup: They're all the ones on a sedan's driver's door. Last I remember trying to kludge them to work there were at least two different kinds, maybe three including the front edge? Prolly total four clips on the bottom, two on the rear and one or two on the front IIRC...

    Mostly I'm concerned with the rear & bottom ones, since they're semi-structural -- they locate the door panel when putting weight on the handle or pulling it shut. Toyota uses one or two massive 12mm bolts to attach stress-bearing door handle/armrests to the door itself, but the Ford/Mazda way is cheaper and lighter, apparently... until your clips get old and worn and pull out when you close the door one day, then bend and pile up when they miss the hole -- preventing your door from closing. My mom had been just slamming the door shut with clips pulled out for years, rather than get it fixed. Well Mom... enjoy the Honda Fit I bought you, it has the massive bolts. :laugh:

    PM comin' your way, Gamer -- thanks again! :thumbsup:
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  6. 4cylinder

    4cylinder FEOA Member

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    removed many of the parts from it getting it ready for its trip to its final resting place at the local yard
  7. moosehead

    moosehead FEOA Member

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    Man.... So timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, accessory belt, upper/lower radiator hoses, and heater core and a new fuel filler line all went in this past week. Yesterday I got around to the tunes installing a Kenwood head unit and speakers all the way around, they sound great. I don't like the way the metra dash kit looks/fits but doesn't look as if I have any other option. I noticed today that the odometer isn't working but the speedo is- it was working prior to the heater core install. After doing some searching around here I figured out the problem, a new cluster is awaiting me at pullapart. It's a shame too, this car only has 116k on it, I'd prefer to keep the original cluster. So far it runs great. Quiet motor, fans kick on when supposed to etc etc.
  8. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Today solved another issue, found two more. :facepalm:

    Got in poly front & rear swaybar links and mounts, today, in anticipation of Matt's bar coming in... USPS reneged on a delivery date *again*. No tach until it finds a barge to come here on, they say. :rolleyes:

    [Matt, this is in no way a dig on you at all -- you handed off 19 days ago, they're to blame for any 'planned ambiguity' aka canned excuses...]

    Anyhow... NTK downstream O2 sensor, which matched the upstream one installed last summer -- wanted them to match (Ford IINM uses NTK as their OEM supplier). Hopefully it improves mileage...

    While under the car yesterday, quickly discovered 1) rear sensor was OEM & out of spec; 2) can't disconnect connector on auto SPIs due to dipstick tube location; removing battery & tray is mandatory; 3) no room to swing a rachet to unscrew old sensor -- good thing sensor socket I bought was offset, otherwise SOL (miss the good service access of my old Toyota); and 4) clip holding the sensor wire from flopping around only accessible from above, when removing the battery/tray. Fine...

    Put together... but before getting off jackstands, wiggled both front wheels laterally... need new ball joints & tie rod ends, I guess... ironically'd been watching sidebar YT clips on how to check, just hours before. Also, driver's inner CV boot beginning to leak grease, needs replaced -- possible contributor to earlier bad mileage, methinks. CV joints have massive friction, need lots of lube to not axe mpg like a guillotine...

    So... began to hook up battery terminals (man, need to clean up that cheesy ground bracket with something soldered). While connecting neg, saw and heard big white *crack* of arc... wow, never happened before. Key out, ignition OFF of course, no arc during removal. Checked fuses, all clear, hmm. Cleaned up, went about feathering throttle on usual 20-mi shakedown to reacquaint PCM with new sensor. Went for max A/C... got no compressor drag, and only warm air coming from vents! Crap -- did that arc take something out somehow?

    Felt arsehole pucker down small enough to strip 40ga wire -- without A/C, here in 90 degF/80% hum'y Maui... nope, need it. Pulled over, checked A/C fuse, still intact. Scratching head... got in & started, turned max A/C on again... now cold -- really cold. At idle, even.

    Anyone have this happen? At first was thinking 'ohhh, let it not be a CCRM relay...'. Whew, sheezus. Not the best day for this lovable beater. :hungover:

    This episode's takeaway: USPS is a bunch of incompetent surly bureaucrats with CYA as an operating mantra. Expect to find other problems when you check for them, esp on an Escort you know did not get regular maintenance. And your A/C will take a few more seconds when disconnecting the battery, to give you chilled air vs. when you just turn the ignition off... maybe a solenoid loses power and you lose all system pressure? Not sure, but it's not the end of the world... just drive a bit longer, it'll come.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
  9. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Okay -- got the tool expected yesterday with O2 sensor -- BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 scanner. Works brilliant, pairs with Torque app quickly and painlessly. No codes, sensor is fine. Supposedly it works on all OBD2/EOBD cars, so will help my mom and dad with their rides and save them a whole truckload of money (stealerships here are unchallenged serial rapists)... :vampire:

    Just placed an order for a CV driveshaft, both tie rods and ball joints. More when they go on the car...
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2013
  10. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Just posting on a weird thing that happened involving my SPI, not really a 'got-er-done' entry...

    Went to get dinner... car running quite good with slushbox pan leak fixed and rear O2 sensor actually working -- mileage harsh 1st 1/4 tank (19 mpg), which was expected with new sensor... improved a lot by 1/2 tank (167 mi for ~6.6 gals, or 25 mpg). Mind you car still feels peppy despite getting 6 more mpg... that's new. :woot: Car also eager hot AND cold, the work of a non-leaking trans as much as a learning PCM, methinks. Still need trans cooler installed though... even better perf when warm.

    But got back from dinner to my curbside parking spot... and about sh*t myself... :wideyed::poop:

    Where I usually park was a big greasy spot, easily the size of a man. Nooooo... ran my fingertip through it... sure enough, it was ATF, red. :drowning: :mask:

    Wait a second. Luckily, I'm a skeptic... so ran the scenario again through my BS meter: ran to get breakfast in AM, only other sortie today, no ATF puddle. Worked clients for a few hours, then ran to get dinner. Was almost dark, but I have to pull forward, back up in 2-pt-turn, then pull out into the street, right past my spot... and don't remember filling my chonies seeing a mural of candied asphalt there...

    Parked as always & looked under the car. Still some shininess on the case from warmed leftover leakage I couldn't clean during pan bolt retorque, but with car running and warm, no drippage indicating re-leak, nor did it shift any differently than after fix. Plus, spot was man-sized -- wager a whole quart would need to drop out of my case to make a puddle that big... was also far too forward to come from my vehicle's known leak... whew.

    Someone else must've had a massive failure, or tried to fill their auto trans in the fading light and spilled a whole bunch (a whole quart though?) while I was at dinner. With keychain LED, found greasy off-road tracks about ten feet up the street, of SUV or truck pulling out from where it parked in my space, after taking a dump of ATF. Hope they made it to the Chevron 3 blocks up, only gas station for ten miles in the direction they were driving... it's not a service station, though. :whistling: Meanwhile there's a hose, stiff floor brush, and bottle of Dawn with my name on it. :rolleyes::hilarious:

    This episode's takeaway: Replacing the downstream O2 sensor may not have directly improved mileage as much as just resetting maps and letting the car relearn them... but it sure improved over previous battery disconnects. And try not to have a heart attack when you see puddles under your car -- investigate them first, and if confirmed, THEN have a heart attack. :arghh::dead:
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
  11. ndlm8888

    ndlm8888 scortin daily

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    Just checked my mtx fluid was a 1/2qt low. Put some in and took a cruze. Shifted so much better. very smooth
  12. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    After the near-heart-attack with the ATF-puddle-what-wasn't-mine incident recently... had a slow day at work so decided to take a look at the trans pan, as I'd retorqued the bolts and wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking again... and of course, it was. :( Not flowing freely like my parking space dumper... but definitely seeping, and it wasn't gonna get any better. Decided to swap it out with a Fel-Pro cork gasket, which is closer to stock than the cheesy rubber gasket + filter kits NAPA sells... hell, it only lasted one year. :sour:

    Inquired around... NAPA sells it, but doesn't stock it, even at their biggest store on the island... O'Reilly's, exactly the same story. But RockAuto wants FORTY FIVE DOLLARS to ship a $4 gasket o_O... well sure, because why sell one $4 gasket that lasts ten years, when you can sell a $20 kit every year? F**k. :grumpy:

    Grudgingly scraped the Permatex ATF sealer and half-baked rubber gasket off, glued on another one, and got it together and going, ~2 hrs wrenching in total (more time running around for supplies on this circa-1995 island). :facepalm: Amazing how much metallic goop comes out of these damned F4EATs... magnets were covered with it. And that's the steel -- no telling how much aluminum's been lost to Nibbles. :unsure::vampire:

    But as it goes... did find two things while under the car (besides how badly I need the suspension bushing and CV joint job I'll be doing next week)... a busted front mount (had a feeling it was bad but didn't see how effed it was, until removing the north-south crossmember for the trans pan)... and a coolant leak (luckily, it was just one or two twists of the screw clamp I put there, and fixed). And if the front mount is bad... usually means the others are on their way out as well. Had I known 100K would be such a money pit, would've at least tried to save up for it. :(

    This episode's takeaway: maybe you shouldn't look too hard for faults on your 15-yo SPI. :arghh: There's a torquing sequence to this trans pan (middle pairs and work outwards) that I didn't know about until watching techs do it on YT... you install all bolts (with copious blue Loctite so they won't back out (not needed on a cork gasket, only the vibe-loosening rubber ones), then snug the middle pairs down, and work outward until you reach the front and rear pairs (actually last one, since the pan has 19 bolts). Retorque to spec the same way.

    RockAuto rapes people for that Fel-Pro gasket. There is no reason it should be that much to ship. And it lasts for years, not months. F*** these parts thieves on the island, as well, as they all gave the same lame excuse for not stocking a superior, but cheaper, part.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
  13. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    Did you use any sealant when you installed it?
  14. Gamer92

    Gamer92 FEOA Donator

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    Ordered new Monroe Quickstruts from RockAuto. Car has been bouncing for too long and I will need tires soon.
  15. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    In the leaking one, I used Permatex Ultra Black ATF sealer, both sides (in hindsight, probably the smoking gun). When the NAPA clerk told me the rubber gaskets usually don't call for sealant... I used Gasgacinch to simply glue the gasket in place so install was possible*, and no sealant on the top edge. Trans sealing surface was 3M-brake-cleaned and dried before the gasket was bolted down. We'll see how long it lasts this time. :rolleyes:

    In addition, since the old gasket was rocky with all that heat, decided to ramp up the priority of the ATF cooler project to the front burner... looking for supplies online as you read this. Will probably get the Derale kit -- is the hose they use just fuel line hose? Or is it a special heat-resistant one? Tried to get fuel injector line hose at O-Reilly's and they said it was $5.99 a FOOT. :eek: All the FI hoses in the bikes I've worked on (60 psi nominal with mechanical regulator) have been burlier than ones used for carbed bikes, so if it's essential and appropriate for the high temps of ATF in service, I'll deal. :unsure:



    * watched this web series on YT called EricTheCarGuy for tips on gasket install (noticed he had a cork gasket, which just disgusted me more about lack of availability here on the island)... and he used motorcycle gasket maker (Hondabond, to be exact :D ) in dots to stick down the gasket. I didn't have Hondabond or its (superior) Yamaha version anymore... so just used an old standby: Gasgacinch, which is just rubber cement, really. ETCG has some pretty sloppy techniques at times, so tend to crossref his tips with other sources. :unsure:
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
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  16. millball

    millball FEOA Donator

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    My Carquest outlet carries a dedicated trans cooler hose that was not too pricy as I recall.
    What set me back were the 6AN Aeroquip fittings. Two fittings cost more than the Derale cooler did:eek:.

    Consider adding a Magnefine filter to the cooler return line while you're in there.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
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  17. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    @millball : that is a trick setup. Lot more sano than the Derale I was looking at... probably flows better too. 5/16", right? :thumbsup:

    And having lived between Metrocenter and Camelback for nine years myself in the desert... I'm figuring this is a must to even get normal service life out of that damned F4EAT... :hurting: Here on the island, it's either NAPA, or O'Reilly's. DIY support here is a joke, esp for us BG owners...

    Oh BTW millball -- does your setup bypass or supplement the stock liquid-cooled cooler loop?
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  18. millball

    millball FEOA Donator

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    Radiator tank cooler still in service. Cooler lines are 3/8 inch.
    Oil passes thru the radiator cooler and then thru my air/oil unit.
    Then thru Magnefine inline filter and back into tranny.
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
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  19. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Okay -- two big shipments to my door this week and next...

    @madmatt2024 : (if he's still around, that is :thumbsup:) Matt's gauge cluster and 21mm wagon swaybar came in today (friggin' finally... damned USPS :grumpy:). Rest of the suspension/drive job parts will be here Monday, yay. :happy:

    Cluster is in the car, and it works! True plug-n-play. But there are some things of note about it I'd like to figure out...

    First, new temp gauge moves like, 1/2 the sweep of what the old non-tach gauge did -- at op temp, old needle sat where it should -- just under 1/2 the sweep of the needle to HOT. With this new cluster, the needle sits at less than 1/4 the sweep of the needle. Is the needle removable, and just needs to be set correctly? Or is something wrong with compatibility (speedo, fuel, and tach are spot-on, though)... may just need to move that needle.

    Second... are all 3gen dash panels made of f***ing glass? o_O I tried to get a paint mixer stick under the panel to gingerly lift out the two clips on the near right (tried to heed warnings about fragility), and the panel shattered into four pieces like a damned ice sculpture in my face... shoulda called it Heisendash, because it was breaking bad. :arghh:

    Tried to epoxy the cracks to salvage some of the thing, but more formed under its own weight, sliding it around my tabletop... wtf. Its steel clips were about 20x too strongly holding on to the dash to prevent breakage... so the panel shattered neatly around the clip bosses...what a joke. In 2010 my 250K, 18-yo Paseo presented zero shattering anything, and I swapped a damned heater core in 25 degF weather in that... what a piece of utterly nickel-dimed garbage this panel is. Well, it does explain why the dash rattled so much... it was literally counting the bumps before disintegrating into dust. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

    So... is anyone going to a j/y for 3gen parts soon? Need a dash/vent panel. :blackeye: I don't care what color it is... black (or IIRC, beige?) is fine, as long as it's not cracked and ships to me without more damage. But grey is my interior color... PM me. :(

    Anyhoo... @Gamer92 's door panel retaining clips came in... and when installed, door magically went from WalMart to Whole Foods quality. Thanks, Gamer! :thumbsup:

    This episode's takeaway: When you buy a used gauge cluster from someone, prepare to have needles that are out of alignment, as gauge faces are popular swaps on these cars, and with the gauges out, there's no way to tell if your needles are aligned.

    3gen cluster bezels (the correct term, not dash panels) are indeed made of friggin' glass. Their retaining clips are located about 1.5" to the right of the gauge cluster hood, and 1" to the left of the rightmost edge ("point") of the bezel, near the passenger airbag... but good luck not breaking one first-try... and boy did I try (was already cracked before I bought the car). Clips get rusty and dirty and want to stick in their holes, making removing them even more difficult. Some dielectric or lithium grease on them before going back in.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
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  20. kanak

    kanak FEOA Donator

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    Some minor stuff with the new cluster (man, seems like my arse is getting Scortched this week)...

    Turns out the way the cluster came apart to install my old odo/speedo/stepper motor unit (Matt's mileage was coincidentally only ~60 mi off my odo o_O, but wasn't crazy about the different font), that it looks as though it's been apart before... perhaps to take back some dial surrounds or something... and the temp gauge needle had been installed wrong. Got the two spoons and popped that guy off after a 15-min drive and installed it where it sat on my old gauges... voila, now looks like I'm used to seeing it, and still goes back down to below the "C\" when stone cold, satisfied.

    When swapping guts with my own odo however, could see how easily that crooked needle could've happened -- suddenly, even with care reinstalling needle, was going 50 mph through a residential neighborhood. :rolleyes: Time to bust out the BAFX OBD unit and Torque on my smartphone...

    Found a nice open stretch of road about 8 mi from here, used spoons to loosen needle on spindle so I could remove with fingers... and drove until Torque said 45 mph. Popped off needle, being *very* careful to maintain 45 via the display... and pressed it on gently reading 45. Took a couple of tries... but now the VSS and the speedo agree within 1 mph -- more accurate than my old cluster. Sounds simple... but be extremely careful pressing that needle on, you do not want to bend that spindle... nor do you want to snap off that little stop post off the speedo or tach messing with the gauges, had a couple of close calls. :nailbiting:

    Have a couple of candidates for replacing that dog-forsaken piece of grey toffee aka my old Heisenbezel... so hopefully in a week or so, can direct A/C at my face again. :bucktooth:

    Next: Mon, rest of chassis/drivetrain parts will be in, and I'll be shooting PB Blaster at rusted bolts, clanging knuckles with sledges and prolly swearing at C-clips on inner CV splines. :thumbsup:

    This episode's takeaway: Get a BAFX, if you're gonna try a BT OBD code reader. So worth the cost, and Amazon Prime ships in two days to me on this rock in the Pacific.
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
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