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For the 2nd-Gen 'scort, was able to use a pry-bar and when that didn't work, a large wedge fork and air-hammer for the transmission side. The wedge fork and air-hammer make short work of it.
I tried everything I had: pry bar, 50mm CV fork, steel cable, flathead screwdriver, whatever I thought might fit to get some leverage on the inner joint. Funny you mention the air hammer; I just purchased one today on Ebay as I came across a different thread where someone used an air hammer to remove their CV joint on a different vehicle. I figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to have one on hand for next time.
 

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Over the weekend, I decided to set aside some time for the car, disassembled the rear rack, cleaned it, and replaced the shock absorber cushion. I pumped the brakes, I still wanted to check them but there was not enough time, I had to run to my wall work second job.
Now - if I can find time to paint and process the bottom, because with age it started to rust, I somehow processed and repainted, but I see that you need to spend more time on it.
 

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Installed some Ebay camber correction bolts today. Got a new set of tires a few weeks back and was told by the alignment shop they couldn't completely correct the camber (I have a lowering kit). The bolts I picked up do not have arrows or anything pointing to the position of the lobes like White Line or some of the other brands do; I ended up using a flat punch to mark the flanges of the bolts so I knew where the lobe was. I also used a paint pen. I put some anti-sieze compound on the lobes of the bolts to prevent any rust from locking it up down the road. You gotta kinda finagle them into position but once you get them dialed in, the difference is noticeable.

Once everything was back together, I drove it around for about 10 minutes to let the suspension settle. My car now drives a hair straighter than it did before; there's a difference in the felt steering as well, but nothing bad at all. For the record, I adjusted the camber bolts for maximum positive camber as my recent alignment results indicated I was at least 1 degree negative on both front wheels (the rears have never had an issue). I got home to check the stance of the front wheels and they look great.
Tire Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Camera accessory Rim
 

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Yesterday I did a trans drain/fill; over 5 years and just less than 50K mile since the last one. When I pulled the first half-shaft in October the fluid that came out was a bit dark so I knew it was time. Put a little over 100 miles in the past 2 days on it just to make sure everything was working the way it should. I hardly drive her now that I work from home; only 800ish miles since the tune-up and oil change in June. 225K and running like a top; the emissions techs are still surprised at how well she does when I have to reregister. Always passes with flying colors.
 

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I just resurrected it from the dead. It's been parked for two years after it died on me at a gas station. Almost two years to the week after it was towed home, it lives again.
 
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EBay Ball joint failed after 40k miles, dealer part is obsolete, i threw an orielly one on it (master pro k8773). It looks a bit more skookum
 

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Shocked a FleaBay anything lasted that long. Knock-off city and without any real warranty.

OEM parts were good but getting decent aftermarket parts for my 'scort at the time, usually meant going to CarQuest... who's no long in existence, bought out by Advance. O'Reilly had some decent parts. Napa was hit/miss... mostly miss. Parts+ Dealer Smyth was like Napa. AutoZone just wanted to keep you coming back. Basically FleaBay with a warranty. But who wants to keep rehanging the same parts over and over and over and over and over and over and ov... not to mention the possible tow truck bills and everything else surrounding it.
 

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Looks like Master Pro K8773 is Moog? Maybe just similar part numbers I dunno. I think I’ll order 2 from moog for the future

 

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Looks like Master Pro K8773 is Moog? Maybe just similar part numbers I dunno. I think I’ll order 2 from moog for the future

Rock auto has them for like $20 less each before shipping. 1999 FORD ESCORT 2.0L L4 SOHC Ball Joint | RockAuto

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 
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Looks like Master Pro K8773 is Moog? Maybe just similar part numbers I dunno. I think I’ll order 2 from moog for the future

Rockauto also has some "Raybestos" ones on clearance for $3. I ordered them a month ago with my new struts, just to have some extras on hand and for the price, I really couldn't refuse. Turns out, they are actually re-boxed sankei 555 (Three Five) brand, an OE supplier for several Japanese car brands. They are, of course, made in Japan which is just about the best you can hope for, aside from the US and Canada. They are still there for $3.06 each on clearance.
 
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I’ll be removing that orielly one and installing a pair of these tomorrow.

Yellow Material property Tool Auto part Gas
 
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I think one of the replacement pair of balljoints that shattered was Moog sold via OReilly. Been too long though; can't be sure.

After doing some comparing on a third set (including the original set) I do remember detecting a significant weight difference... the heavier ones being the quality ones.

When selecting ball joints and tie-rod ends, go with the heavier set.
 

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Are there 2 of these threads?
 
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