@Gamer92 - Kind of shocked. That doesn't look like it's anything you'd get stuck in. Must be a hill. Couldn't backup either? Supposedly with open differentials, you can lightly hold the brake and force more power to the non-slipping wheel. Did you experiment with that?
Also, did you like freaking wash and wax the car in the middle of a muddy stream right before taking the picture? Photo doesn't show any mud, even on the tires LoL. 😃
EDIT: I recall one time where I got stuck in a parking spot; kind of shoveled in. THen I later noticed that I hadn't fully released my parking brake. (Doh!) Once I did that I shot right out of it! 😅
Rebuilt the front struts today on my 99 sedan (replaced the strut assemblies, upper spring isolators, and upper bearings; reused the rest). I need to buy a CV axle puller so I can replace the CV shafts as I tried this morning and couldn't get the DS axle out. Just shy of 225K miles after over 14 years of ownership (picked mine up with 101K on the dial). Passed emissions last month with flying colors. Was considering replacing it with a Mazdaspeed 3 but I'm gonna keep it as a commuter and buy a Yamaha MT09 instead
Serpentine tensioner failed today. Drove it a few miles to parts store hoping they would have one but no luck. Had to get it towed back home 20 miles, hoping I didn’t let it get too hot without water pump spinning.
That's what I loved about the 1.9L. Through and through the decisions they made, (bi-metal design aside,) made sense. The water pump was driven by the timing belt. In the unlikely event that the water pump went, so did the timing belt... which meant the engine wouldn't run. It was pretty difficult to ruin that engine, (bi-metal design aside).
EDIT: Forgot about the valve seats that often dropped... which fortunately didn't affect my engine.
Replaced the bad tensioner and installed an AC bypass pulley as well as replaced the power steering line since it broke while trying to remove the tensioner bolt. Crowfoot made that easier but still a PITA to get it on the pump.
If I recall correctly, I think the pipe on my 2nd-Gen 'scort was 2" diameter. Probably the same for 3rd-Gen but don't know. May just have to put a tape-measure around it. Feed that into an online circumference to diameter calculator which will run the formula. Can also just hold up a ruler next to the pipe an eyeball it.
Painted all four wheels today; I was able to replace the driver-side CV axle but my slide hammer wasn't long enough for the passenger-side axle (had to order an extension) so I figured it was a good day to paint the wheels since I had 2 of the wheels off already. 2 coats of Rustoleum Black Gloss along with 1 coat of clearcoat made the factory steelies look like new. They came out better than I expected; I made sure to sand everything down and used an air compressor to blow the dust off as well as wipe everything down with brake cleaner before painting. I'll replace the P/S axle as soon as time frees up and after the extension arrives.
And for you paint snobs out there: I'll be replacing the tires in the next month or two because I certainly wasn't going to paint the wheels with new tires on it and risk overspray on new rubber. That just ain't right