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This thread reminded me to buy a couple of sets handbrake cables, just to have spares for my little fleet of Escorts! Nice to learn that the base model LX cables are the same for the early (92) and later (94) brakes.
 

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This thread reminded me to buy a couple of sets handbrake cables, just to have spares for my little fleet of Escorts! Nice to learn that the base model LX cables are the same for the early (92) and later (94) brakes.
Not a bad idea. Mine has the GT parking brake cable that seems to have reached it's adjustable limit. Are the GT and regular Escort PBC's the same length and same attachment ends?

Will these work?

Parking Brake Cable-Element3 Rear Right Raybestos BC94502 | eBay
Parking Brake Cable-Element3 Rear Left Raybestos BC94504 | eBay

John
 

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All I can suggest is going to rockauto(dot)com, and using the images in their listings to see if the cables between the LX and GT versions have the same ends. The small images enlarge if you click on them, and many can be pivoted to show other views.
 

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@Gamer92 - That alternator looks like it burnt up. My second gen would burn up alternators because the ground between alternator casing and battery was weak. With all accessories running, rear defrost, A/C and blower on max, high beams, brake lights, engine at 3,000 RPM and anything else you can think to turn on, test voltage drop between alternator casing and battery negative post. What I initially thought to be an "alternator not charging" issue, turned out to be a "keep torching alternators" issue. https://www.feoa.net/threads/alternator-not-charging.91409/#post-836929

As long as the commutator and bearings are in good condition, plus the stator coil windings have the proper resistance range, the only part most alternators need are a set of replacement brushes. The rectifier/regulator assemblies probably rarely fail and like the brushes, are easily/cheaply replaceable. @FordMan59 turned me onto that. In your case though, it looks burnt... and those stator coils are likely done... which means replace the alternator.
 

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Me; I would try to undo the tiny torx head screws, which are often solidly corroded in place. If you can remove them, you can look at the brushes, and at the slip rings. I have seen an alt or two that was still working fine, but the sliprings were worn down a millimeter or two.
In that case, I figure the bearings in the alternator are likely well worn also, and just get a rebuilt one.
Then I make a note of the mileage and date when I replaced it, in my journal for that Escort.
I avoid AutoZone replacements the same way I avoid covid-19. in fact I usually order them fron rockauto(dot)com.
 

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Me; I would try to undo the tiny torx head screws, which are often solidly corroded in place. If you can remove them, you can look at the brushes, and at the slip rings. I have seen an alt or two that was still working fine, but the sliprings were worn down a millimeter or two.
In that case, I figure the bearings in the alternator are likely well worn also, and just get a rebuilt one.
Then I make a note of the mileage and date when I replaced it, in my journal for that Escort.
I avoid AutoZone replacements the same way I avoid covid-19. in fact I usually order them fron rockauto(dot)com.
It was under warranty from Autozone. Lasted 3 years and some change so maybe this one will be the same.
 

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@Gamer92 - That alternator looks like it burnt up. My second gen would burn up alternators because the ground between alternator casing and battery was weak. With all accessories running, rear defrost, A/C and blower on max, high beams, brake lights, engine at 3,000 RPM and anything else you can think to turn on, test voltage drop between alternator casing and battery negative post. What I initially thought to be an "alternator not charging" issue, turned out to be a "keep torching alternators" issue. https://www.feoa.net/threads/alternator-not-charging.91409/#post-836929

As long as the commutator and bearings are in good condition, plus the stator coil windings have the proper resistance range, the only part most alternators need are a set of replacement brushes. The rectifier/regulator assemblies probably rarely fail and like the brushes, are easily/cheaply replaceable. @FordMan59 turned me onto that. In your case though, it looks burnt... and those stator coils are likely done... which means replace the alternator.

This was what the old one was doing. This is at highway speed around 60mph with blower on high. This was a week or so ago. Finally got around to pulling it and testing it out of car.
 

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@Gamer92 - Yeah that's exactly what happened to me. RPM gauge went dead on the highway. It was only then I noticed that the headlights were dimmer than usual. Engine followed not long after. Well over a decade of ownership, first time I ever had to call a tow for the 'scort. One other side effect of the underlying repair, (the grounding, not the alternator,) was *much* brighter headlamps. Voltage drop tests are different from just reading normal voltage. You're instead, measuring the amount of loss between two points on the same side of the circuit. (between the alternator casing and battery negative post for example) For whatever reason, weak engine grounding causes the alternator to work harder than it ordinarily does. It ran my alternators unbelievably hot. Didn't have a full-time volt meter but readings after initial install were good with replacement alternators. Only after the third alternator did I manage to catch a permanently high reading. That third one being a cheapy alternator, it lasted all of about 15 minutes LoL.

Not saying this is your issue, just saying it's something that's quick and easy to test for.
 

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After sitting a few years, have to send the old tracer to the scraper. First car and a damn good one, even after 2 engine rebuilds. Thrust bearing failure took it out back in 2017 and wasn’t gonna rebuild it again plus rockers were rusting at that point . Maybe someday I’ll find another 4 door but for now the ZX2 will do


 

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After sitting a few years, have to send the old tracer to the scraper. First car and a damn good one, even after 2 engine rebuilds. Thrust bearing failure took it out back in 3017 and wasn’t gonna rebuild it again plus rockets were rusting at that point . Maybe someday I’ll find another 4 door but for now the ZX2 will do


Wow! You must have a Time Machine!

I didn't realize we're gonna have Escorts with rockets in 3017!🤣

John
 

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Gamer92: You definitely kept this car going far, far, far longer than anyone else could’ve. Like my wagon, another sad goodbye to a very good car.
 

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Almost a year ago I stashed "Gurty" at a friends property when we moved 500 miles north into Oregon.
After many months and dashed plans, I managed to get 'her' towed 1/2 way and now today all ready to swoop down and pick up my girl. Still 500 miles of driving. All ready to go, or rather I am....just waiting for the wifey to get ready...which could take all frickin' day....tick tock tick tock...trailer attached and gas tank full...honey, hurry up! RRR
During the month we were packing BOTH my cars died, the 02 C230 Benz the alternator crapped out and then "Gurty" had problems with the clutch hydraulics. I pulled the Benz on the back of the 26' Uhaul but Gurty has to stay behind. And the Benz still has issues and no one around here who works on Benz's so dammit...Honey HURRY UP!!! I need that frickin' car!
I replaced the brakes a while back, and put new fluid in. Hopefully that didn't cause this problem. Weird set up with shared reservoir. Anyone have any sage advice on brake fluids and brands etc. Not all (was it DOT3?) fluid is the same. I'm figuring replace both the clutch master and slave cylinders. Any thoughts?

BTW- Anyone reading this. I you move from California, rent your truck in Nevada, Ariz, wherever, out of state,,
you'll save THOUSANDS. Wish I'd known.
 

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Hi @Escort230. If this occurred after changing the brake fluid, it shouldn't be related, but it could. The reservoir is compartmentalized via spillway. Only a tiny back corner of it is dedicated to the clutch master cylinder. It is VERY hard to determine where that fluid level is, so just maintain the fluid level at the FULL mark and don't let it drop while you bleed the slave cylinder. Oncee all air is eliminated, test your clutch. If you've properly bled fluid (no air) from the slave, then look for fluid leaks at the firewall inside the car where the push-rod enters, and at the slave cylinder behind the boot. No fluid and it still doesn't work, then you only need to replace the clutch master cylinder. It is the only part in the hydraulic system that is capable of leaking internally. The slave can ONLY leak fluid externally. You'll have to remove the battery and the battery tray, work under the dash a bit, but it's a fairly straight-forward and easy job. Parts are inexpensive. Don't recall what the manual specifiees in terms of fluid; whether it was DOT4 or three or whatever... but just use whatever the manual says. The newer DOT standards, unless noted otherwise, tend to be backward compatible with older.

EDIT: If you can specifically read the clutch fluid level in the reservoir and it's low, look for evidence of fluid leaks, first and foremost. Then decide what to do from there.
 

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I think definitely the master.
Works if you pump it up and no fluid loss. Wifey finally was ready att 1130 am... I was ready at 9am. So didnt get home till 1am. But I did it!
 

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Agreed. I'd check it for air though. Although an unusal occurrence I think, a couple of experiences have thought me that it's easier to suck in air, versus push out fluid.
 
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