Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by ndlm8888, Aug 2, 2013.
Replaced the drive belt, as well as the rear sway bar links
I've done the keman intake mod on my 01 SE I've noticed the increase in power. Rather enjoyable considering I sound louder than most honda's I pass by in my 1st gear.
When I replace pads I usually loosen the bleed valve before spreading the pads. This does two things. It makes it easy to spread the pads but it also removes whatever fluid was in the caliper replacing it with fresher fluid. Top it off after you button up the DB's.
For some braking systems, not necessarily 'scorts, there have been reports that forcing fluid back up through the ABS module, for whatever reason, seems to cause or contribute to ABS malfunction. So doing it that way has the benefit of preventing that.
Re piston seal failure, if all it took was backing the pads in, it would've soon happened anyway. Good thing he discovered the problem during the brake job, rather than out on the public roads.
I put gas in it. Does that count?
Saving for transmission service and detailing.
umm. i think putting gas in doesn't count. i do think saving up money for services does.
but then... how much did you put away today? And... what kind of transmission service? (this is kinda "hmmmm" -ish)
I think the transmission service is new fluid, filter and a check of the pan to see if there are any fragments.
Today I'm changing out the positive terminal for the battery. It's mangled and came loose in traffic. Highly annoying. Changing out the air filter since it's been chewing on smoke for the last few weeks.
Marine terminals. Thought they looked clean especially with the color coding.
I would not be the least bit concerned with the fine particles that normally stick to the magnets. By the time I got around to changing the filter on mine, I had around 160K miles on it, and the filter magnets looked filthy. This transmission lasted to 262K miles.
Haven’t drove it in a month after someone turned in front of me. Decided to fix it and started those repairs today.
Hope no one was injured. Did the offender make you whole on the expenses?
The fun never ends
My '98 Scort failed inspection last year in March just as the whole world was locking down. I said F' it and parked the car until I could muster up the courage to let it go. My GFs son is now i need of a car so last week I put it up on stands to bring it back from the dead.
Parking brake not holding (thought it might be frozen), passenger side floor pan has rust holes and the wonderful rear trans mount is bad.
Pulled apart both rear brakes, including the backing plates to clean, un-seize, grease the hell out of and otherwise rebuild everything. Every thing seems to be in working order with the exception of the left parking brake cable which I cannot get back on without the brake fully engaged. I've released the automatic adjuster to it's lowest setting and unscrewed the parking brake handle adjustment nut until it's about to fall off. Yet it's like I'm trying to put on a cable that's too short (??) or the the handle is fully engaged.
I have a buddy coming over to weld on a piece of sheet metal for the passenger side floor and I'll tackle the trans mount after that. (don' relish removing the other three mounts to lower the engine in order to get the thing replaced.)
I'll post more if I have good news. LOL!
BTW- Dose ANYONE know what this spring mechanism is on the rear brake back plates? It has something to do with the parking brake. (I AM assuming.)
Never had reason to mess with the cabling.
First time IIRC it just needed brake shoes.
The second time the parking brake went weak was due to only one side functioning. The side that wasn't functioning had a seized adjuster.
The next time the parking brake went weak, the adjusters were worn. I enhanced the profile of the existing teeth.
The last time the parking brake went weak to the point of not working, the adjuster's teeth were all but gone. So I managed to scrounge up a replacement set from a wrecked 'scort in the junkyard.
But I never got around to installing them. Rust had compromised the rear end to the point that it wasn't safe; therefore wasn't worth the time investment to keep maintaining it. It was hard to let'er go. I set a "letting go" point. Once the rear trailing arm breaks, that was my queue. It broke, I quit driving it.
Quite difficult to let go when you've put in the work. I can say it's been great to keep going considering I drove it only about 100-150 miles a week. I had no reason to get rid of it. No one wanted to borrow it or ride with me but that's worked in my favor. Lol!! Put in about $425 for each of the 7 years I've owned it. I'll get it back on the road and safe and then pass it on to my GFs son. (he's poorer than a church mouse).
That's really nice of you to help out your GF's son like that. Are you giving him the car or are you letting him "borrow" it?
It'll be his. I'll help him with it but it'll be out of my hands and he can do what he wans with it. I have to let go.
It could simply be that the parking brake cable is seized and needs to be replaced. I've had aftermarket replacements that are too short to allow the arms to sit in their full rest position but never fully applied.
You shouldn't need to remove all of the mounts to change the rear one, I've always been able to do it without loosening any of the mounts attached to the body but getting the upper bracket bolt in and out is tight.
I pulled both sides off completely and checked their play. They both were free and easily moved within the assembly. I replaced the left one (the one I'm having difficulty with) years ago and had trouble with it then. I, being the know it all I was, just got it in and adjusted everything to make is a non issue. The Virginia inspection never caught it or had a problem with it, so I never thought twice. It's coming back to roost. I think it was an incorrect part to begin with. I have another one coming (Rockauto) tomorrow. We'll see!
On the mount, I bought a new mount four years ago and tried to replace it without success. Again, the annual inspections never caught the fact that it was shot. (till this year)
The two nuts came off: no issue. The bolt, on the other hand, would not come out. At least 3 RCH short on throw space for it to come out. I will try to get it out again but I'm not going to go nuts over it. If it doesn't clear the body, I'll support the engine and remove the other mounts. Then I'm thinking to just lower the engine and inch or two which should get it clear. I'm envious of you who have said you've done it. I just can't see how since it's as simple as taking the nut off the bolt and pulling the bolt out. Not sure what I'd be doing different or wrong. Wish it was just tight. (?maybe, I wasn't putting enough umph into it?)
Any takers on what this is near the parking brake cable?:
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