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Hey Guys, so I have a few issues with my 99 escort se and am having a hard time figuring out what to do first and also, what to do:
1. Thermostat Housing- So I have noticed when the weather is cold, it would take a really long time for the car to heat up and the temperature gauge's highest point was only a third of the way. Now its warmer out, sometimes it reaches a little under half, so I am not sure if the T-stat is stuck open, Im not all that worried about it being stuck open of course, but I am very worried about seeing the thermostat housing having a very slight leak between the engine block and T-stat housing leaving some sign of anti-freeze leaking on top of the transmission. I found because I noticed the corrosion on the housing. I'm not really loosing coolant and sometimes it doesn't even leak but I know one day its going to leak really bad being I drive it every day and its my only car. This is leading to my next problem
2. Changing the Coolant- SO if I have a leaky t-stat housing, how am I going to change the fluid, Should I install the new t-stat housing when I change the coolant and replace the gasket a second time for the housing when I put the new T-stat and housing in? Or Should I change the fluid first and and then change the t-stat and housing? I'm sure the coolant hasnt been changed since I have only had this car for half a year and the old owner told me that it was never done.
3.The Radiator- Ever since I had the car I noticed an anti-freeze smell with no visible leaks when i would be outside the car, the cap hat had a little bit of signs of leakage but I never seen wet anti-freeze or bubbling on it. I know for a fact it is the original radiator, so either way I'm going to need to replace it even though it is not leaking. which leads me to my previous question should I replace the radiator before the t-stat or vice versa? Also I know the trans cooler lines for this car can become a problem when replacing the radiator, I have no leaks on them as of now, so would it be a problem to just screw the original trans cooler lines into the new radiator with new O-ring gaskets on the banjo fitting?
-Any good input is appreciated
 

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1. Thermostat Housing- So I have noticed when the weather is cold, it would take a really long time for the car to heat up and the temperature gauge's highest point was only a third of the way. Now its warmer out, sometimes it reaches a little under half, so I am not sure if the T-stat is stuck open, Im not all that worried about it being stuck open of course, but I am very worried about seeing the thermostat housing having a very slight leak between the engine block and T-stat housing leaving some sign of anti-freeze leaking on top of the transmission. I found because I noticed the corrosion on the housing. I'm not really loosing coolant and sometimes it doesn't even leak but I know one day its going to leak really bad being I drive it every day and its my only car. This is leading to my next problem
If your t stat housing is starting to leak you're going to need to either replace the entire unit or replace the O ring that's supposed to seal between the block and the housing. It's been awhile since I've had an SPI engine apart so I'm not 100% on how the tstat seals but you get the idea.

2. Changing the Coolant- SO if I have a leaky t-stat housing, how am I going to change the fluid, Should I install the new t-stat housing when I change the coolant and replace the gasket a second time for the housing when I put the new T-stat and housing in? Or Should I change the fluid first and and then change the t-stat and housing? I'm sure the coolant hasnt been changed since I have only had this car for half a year and the old owner told me that it was never done.
Your radiator should have a petcock on the bottom that allows you to drain the fluid out of your radiator. Drain it. Disconnect the upper rad hose from the tstat. Unplug the sending unit connection. Remove the tstat housing. Do it in reverse order and refill the radiator fluid you had drained out unless you decide you want to refresh with new fluid.

3.The Radiator- Ever since I had the car I noticed an anti-freeze smell with no visible leaks when i would be outside the car, the cap hat had a little bit of signs of leakage but I never seen wet anti-freeze or bubbling on it. I know for a fact it is the original radiator, so either way I'm going to need to replace it even though it is not leaking. which leads me to my previous question should I replace the radiator before the t-stat or vice versa? Also I know the trans cooler lines for this car can become a problem when replacing the radiator, I have no leaks on them as of now, so would it be a problem to just screw the original trans cooler lines into the new radiator with new O-ring gaskets on the banjo fitting?
-Any good input is appreciated
If your temp stays low your radiator is probably fine. When there is any kind of leak in your cooling system your temps will typically go up.
If you're going to replace the radiator the o rings usually come with.

John
 

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Did an oil change and replaced the front rotors and pads (now on it's 3rd set of drilled/slotted rotors, replaced every 3 years); was spreading the d/s front caliper and blew the piston seal. Had to make a run to AutoZone to get a reman caliper. Everything is up and running now. approaching 222k miles.
 

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I've done the keman intake mod on my 01 SE I've noticed the increase in power. Rather enjoyable considering I sound louder than most honda's I pass by in my 1st gear.
 

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Did an oil change and replaced the front rotors and pads (now on it's 3rd set of drilled/slotted rotors, replaced every 3 years); was spreading the d/s front caliper and blew the piston seal. Had to make a run to AutoZone to get a reman caliper. Everything is up and running now. approaching 222k miles.
When I replace pads I usually loosen the bleed valve before spreading the pads. This does two things. It makes it easy to spread the pads but it also removes whatever fluid was in the caliper replacing it with fresher fluid. Top it off after you button up the DB's.

john
 

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When I replace pads I usually loosen the bleed valve before spreading the pads. This does two things. It makes it easy to spread the pads but it also removes whatever fluid was in the caliper replacing it with fresher fluid. Top it off after you button up the DB's.

john
For some braking systems, not necessarily 'scorts, there have been reports that forcing fluid back up through the ABS module, for whatever reason, seems to cause or contribute to ABS malfunction. So doing it that way has the benefit of preventing that.

Re piston seal failure, if all it took was backing the pads in, it would've soon happened anyway. Good thing he discovered the problem during the brake job, rather than out on the public roads.
 

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umm. i think putting gas in doesn't count. i do think saving up money for services does.
but then... how much did you put away today? And... what kind of transmission service? (this is kinda "hmmmm" -ish)

I put gas in it. Does that count?:D

Saving for transmission service and detailing.
 

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umm. i think putting gas in doesn't count. i do think saving up money for services does.
but then... how much did you put away today? And... what kind of transmission service? (this is kinda "hmmmm" -ish)
I think the transmission service is new fluid, filter and a check of the pan to see if there are any fragments.

Today I'm changing out the positive terminal for the battery. It's mangled and came loose in traffic. Highly annoying. Changing out the air filter since it's been chewing on smoke for the last few weeks.
 

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I think the transmission service is new fluid, filter and a check of the pan to see if there are any fragments.

Today I'm changing out the positive terminal for the battery. It's mangled and came loose in traffic. Highly annoying. Changing out the air filter since it's been chewing on smoke for the last few weeks.
Marine terminals. Thought they looked clean especially with the color coding.



John
 

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I think the transmission service is new fluid, filter and a check of the pan to see if there are any fragments.
I would not be the least bit concerned with the fine particles that normally stick to the magnets. By the time I got around to changing the filter on mine, I had around 160K miles on it, and the filter magnets looked filthy. This transmission lasted to 262K miles.
 

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My '98 Scort failed inspection last year in March just as the whole world was locking down. I said F' it and parked the car until I could muster up the courage to let it go. My GFs son is now i need of a car so last week I put it up on stands to bring it back from the dead.
Parking brake not holding (thought it might be frozen), passenger side floor pan has rust holes and the wonderful rear trans mount is bad.
Pulled apart both rear brakes, including the backing plates to clean, un-seize, grease the hell out of and otherwise rebuild everything. Every thing seems to be in working order with the exception of the left parking brake cable which I cannot get back on without the brake fully engaged. I've released the automatic adjuster to it's lowest setting and unscrewed the parking brake handle adjustment nut until it's about to fall off. Yet it's like I'm trying to put on a cable that's too short (??) or the the handle is fully engaged.
I have a buddy coming over to weld on a piece of sheet metal for the passenger side floor and I'll tackle the trans mount after that. (don' relish removing the other three mounts to lower the engine in order to get the thing replaced.)
I'll post more if I have good news. LOL!
BTW- Dose ANYONE know what this spring mechanism is on the rear brake back plates? It has something to do with the parking brake. (I AM assuming.)
Automotive tire Gas Art Tints and shades Motor vehicle

PEACE!
 

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Never had reason to mess with the cabling.

First time IIRC it just needed brake shoes.

The second time the parking brake went weak was due to only one side functioning. The side that wasn't functioning had a seized adjuster.

The next time the parking brake went weak, the adjusters were worn. I enhanced the profile of the existing teeth.

The last time the parking brake went weak to the point of not working, the adjuster's teeth were all but gone. So I managed to scrounge up a replacement set from a wrecked 'scort in the junkyard.

But I never got around to installing them. Rust had compromised the rear end to the point that it wasn't safe; therefore wasn't worth the time investment to keep maintaining it. It was hard to let'er go. I set a "letting go" point. Once the rear trailing arm breaks, that was my queue. It broke, I quit driving it.
 
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