Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by ndlm8888, Aug 2, 2013.
How would THAT break??
I could suspect it broke because the original weld was weak, or got weaker during the plating process. Or if someone had hoisted the head or engine up, and it got in the way of a chain.
I would think brazing or silver soldering would be a better repair; though a lot more involved to accomplish of course.
Went to move the Escort. Put it in reverse. Engaged easy. Backed it around. Put it in drive. Engaged easy. Decided hmm...lemme see what happens. Took it for a drive. Shifts normally as if nothing was ever wrong. And I didn't even put any fluid in it.
I'ma drive the damned thing.
I'll keep an eye on it and pull it apart eventually to find and eliminate all leaks but I definitely don't need to rebuild it.
Weird. Run the damn thing lol.
Took a pic:
Haha for real. Save me some gas.
I had it on the interstate and everything. 2600-2800RPM @ 68-70mph as designed. Smooth, quiet (for what it is).
If it makes a liar out of me at least I'll know it's just fluid and not mechanical.
It did not break at the weld though it broke clean in the middle of the tab. Its the weirdest thing. I have no idea when it happened but I know it was fine when I replaced the head gasket a couple years ago and also haven't noticed it in the past oil changes etc
That sure looks like a 'vibration crack' to me.
Happened to me 3 different rails. I thought just cause I had a adjustable fuel regulator on rail. I guess thats not the case.
hmm fender looks fixed?
LOL, it's the passenger side that has both the bear bumps and rust. The drivers side is the "good" side.
Got the trans out, Ordered a clutch. Going tomorrow to get a MTX from the yard.
Bondo and paint to da rescue!
...dont break that bolt trying to get it on or out...
I know.. I'm going to try to hold it in place with some bailing wire and clean it up and jb weld it and see what happens. Since it's not leaking fuel/air yet, I'd rather not take the rail off and possibly have to get new injector o-rings or possibly break that intake mount bolt
I've had my injectors out numerous times without affecting the o rings, for what it's worth.
Front brake overhaul: Rotors/pads, reman calipers, soft lines. Took a good 3/4 of a big bottle of fluid to bleed, and I'm still not sure all the air is out though it feels just a vague as it was before. Pedal goes down 1/2 way before any braking force is applied, but once there braking seems somewhat normal and firm . Failing master cylinder? [EDIT] Now thinking it may just be the rear brakes.. frozen adjusters or something since the handbrake currently doesn't seem to work despite the feel of tension on the lever.
Fixed an exhaust leak at the cat to midpipe connection.. Replaced the gasket and used big bolts instead of the spring bolt setup the pipe came with.
Replaced the headlight brace and headlights with some used black framed units. All 4 of the nutserts in the bumper sides under the headlights spun and pulled out. I bolted the bumper back on without them, but I'm sure it'll sag. Any ideas on how to get a nut captured in there or something? I'd figure someone's had the issue before.. Maybe a large wiretie in one hole and out the other would suffice for the time being?
My new workshop/garage/studio. Just signed this morning.
You have no idea how envious I am. Not only a nice workplace - but not cluttered with ten years of half-finished projects.
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