FEOA Forums banner
1 - 20 of 1002 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Was rear ended . Now it's time to decide if its worth fixing, or just driving till it dies. 164k and no major issues, but I have done a lot of interior cleaning and did most of my own repairs and maintenance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
^ how bad was it? Just the bumper?
I tweaked the camber alil -1 up front got alil more castor too. Much better w/o p/s.
Sorry, I just now saw your reply. I don't seem to be getting the e-mails I was before the new update. It damaged the bumper, rear panel and the trunk pan, body shops wanted 4500 but I just mounted a new bumper and whacked the trunk latch a few times and its good enough for me.

before
Automotive tail & brake light Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire


after
Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle registration plate Car
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Yes, I was actually pissed when it happened, and wanted to just trash the car, but with it being my first car, and seeing how newer cars are harder to work on and this one is pretty easy. I decided to keep it and just replace the bumper and hammer the trunk area a bit. Sucks that the person didn't have insurance, but insurance would have totaled it anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
If I was not at fault and somebody did that to my car I would give them the estimate for the damages and demand they pay for it. If they refused I would take them to court, asking for the damages and court costs.
I would love to take them to court and make them pay for it. However, they didn't have insurance and I doubt they have enough money to pay for the damages. I would just hate to waste that time and money taking them to court and winning, yet not get any money since they may not have it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Changed oil and discovered my rear transmission mount is shot. I knew the front was bad, but the rear is worse. Going to have some fun replacing both in a week or so.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
ok.....i agree with your assessment in principle. But given that i drive so little since the wheel turning event, how did this happen?

Don't get me wrong....i believe what you state. In fact, that is total common sense! I am just a bit baffled how I screwed the pooch on this one. IDGI - I don't get it.

Clearly, I am missing something.

weird weird weird weird
Check tire pressure. A tire that is low may cause a pulling to that side.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Attempted the second round of replacing my headlights. Hopefully no bad karma happens this time. Now all I need to do is aim them when it gets dark and that should be all. They look better than the old ones.

New
Automotive parking light Car Vehicle registration plate Automotive side-view mirror Vehicle


These looked worse but they were cleaned up a bit. Only reason they were replaced is because they would not adjust and the seals were leaking water.
Plant Eyewear Eye glass accessory Tree Automotive lighting
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Replaced both transmission mounts, and finally got the crossmember back on after some cussing. Now I need to get a new radiator due to a small leak.

Front
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber

Rear AKA pita to get out.
Tire Automotive tire Light Wheel Finger
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Changed oil, and drilled a rounded drum screw out. Also removed a rear strut to see how bad spring was broken. Time for new struts before long.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Kanak

When you say door retaining clips, are you taking about the black and cream colored clips that hold the door panel to the door?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
When I had to replace a door panel I could not find them either. I ended up going to junkyard and grabbed about 25 of them. I could grab some from a junkyard this weekend and send some to you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
After the near-heart-attack with the ATF-puddle-what-wasn't-mine incident recently... had a slow day at work so decided to take a look at the trans pan, as I'd retorqued the bolts and wanted to make sure it wasn't leaking again... and of course, it was. :( Not flowing freely like my parking space dumper... but definitely seeping, and it wasn't gonna get any better. Decided to swap it out with a Fel-Pro cork gasket, which is closer to stock than the cheesy rubber gasket + filter kits NAPA sells... hell, it only lasted one year. :sour:

Inquired around... NAPA sells it, but doesn't stock it, even at their biggest store on the island... O'Reilly's, exactly the same story. But RockAuto wants FORTY FIVE DOLLARS to ship a $4 gasket o_O... well sure, because why sell one $4 gasket that lasts ten years, when you can sell a $20 kit every year? F**k. :grumpy:

Grudgingly scraped the Ultra Black and half-baked rubber gasket off, glued on another one, and got it together and going, ~2 hrs wrenching in total (more time running around for supplies on this circa-1995 island). :facepalm: Amazing how much metallic goop comes out of these damned F4EATs... magnets were covered with it. And that's the steel -- no telling how much aluminum's been lost to Nibbles. :unsure::vampire:

But as it goes... did find two things while under the car (besides how badly I need the suspension bushing and CV joint job I'll be doing next week)... a busted front mount (had a feeling it was bad but didn't see how effed it was, until removing the north-south crossmember for the trans pan)... and a coolant leak (luckily, it was just one or two twists of the screw clamp I put there, and fixed). And if the front mount is bad... usually means the others are on their way out as well. Had I known 100K would be such a money pit, would've at least tried to save up for it. :(
Did you use any sealant when you installed it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Ordered new Monroe Quickstruts from RockAuto. Car has been bouncing for too long and I will need tires soon.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Replaced thermostat, housing, and both coolant sensors with all Motorcraft parts from Rock Auto. Apparently my idea of how the thermostat works was incorrect, I guess you learn something everyday. Problem was slight over cooling. Now with all of this everything seems good. Next on the to do list is replace all 4 struts this week.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Got the struts replaced and now the car runs smooth! Fronts didn't really show any rust or wear, just cracked rubber at the top. Rears had rusty springs and one spring was broke.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Speaking of vacuum leaks... :doctor:

Got a few minutes today to fix the cracked stock PCV hose on my '99, which has that silly driver's side elbow that guaranteed to crack getting off the intake tube (if the tube port doesn't crack first). Ford hasn't carried it for at least five years (at least at my ghetto dealer). NAPA however sells a coolant hose with a similar elbow in the same-size diameter, so $10, new one on, 'proofed further with a couple of zipties...

The old one wasn't badly cracked... but rocky enough that everytime I pulled the intake tube for service it cracked a bit more. When inquiring about swapping it at NAPA (an island of 150K people doesn't have the 'luxury' of choice in DIY auto parts stores you mainlanders take for granted :p ), the sales droid claimed PCV hoses were special and that coolant hoses used as such would live very short lives (riiiiight... maybe for diesels :rolleyes: ). Pulling the old one, there was a white coating on the inside of it on the valve cover side, but was flexible & otherwise identical to a coolant hose, which is already rated to over 270 degF (SAE 20R3 and 20R4). The plastic PCV seemed fine as well. So if the heat in this hose got high enough to rock up rubber (300+ degF), it didn't do it often enough to hurt anything. Besides, even if it failed every year, it's only $10 to swap it.

Fit perfectly (NAPA pt# 10801, Gates 18801) when trimmed to length. Went for a drive to see what was what...

I'll be dammited... right out of the NAPA parking lot warm, response seemed to go down a hair, but the car became very smooth, esp off-idle and on trailing throttle. If madmatt2024's theory about protective richness in PCM mapping is correct, that's what caused a slight fat feeling to return (and why the car with a leaking PCV hose, felt more powerful off the line -- the MAF was measuring airflow low, as extra O2 leaked in upstream at the PCV port, making the motor run lean). But once the engine shook around a bit and that cracked hose leaked randomly more or less air, the O2 sensors would try to adjust for conditions that were too chaotic -- wasting vast amounts of fuel...

I know this, since on my test drive of ~24 mi, the A/C was on the whole time, and the car seemed to shrug it off (much like it does after you reconnect the battery after a service). Under the exact same conditions, I've watched my fuel needle go a quarter of a quarter tank on the same drive, A/C on. That's 21 mpg, horrible on a mostly-highway, 55-mph run. But after the fix, not only did the car not drop as much power at cruising speeds, but got way less thirsty. First time that's happened with this car -- it would get okay mileage on long drives with the A/C off, but never with it on.

Not to mention, the off-idle stutter's no longer a stutter -- it's a tiny hiccup now. Still there, still due to broken mount rocking... but no more one-one-thousand masturbation pause, until the wheels finally pull me forward. :nailbiting: Trans likes the tighter, smoother engine output as well (think it was either Intuit or zzyzzx who clued me in to the F4EAT autos hating flaky engine output -- this proves that hunch right).

Also noticed other things strong vacuum improved -- the brakes most noticeably. Even HVAC controls sound different, as the doors are vacuum-operated (not as noisy and slightly faster-acting now).

Betcha didn't think a hose elbow could affect your car's demeanor so negatively, huh? Thought I had it covered... apparently not. Thanks a bunch Ford, for not letting aftermarket suppliers sell this part... but the alternative luckily is $10 (prolly $5-$6 anywhere else), snip-snip and on. :thumbsup:
Could you post some pics of how it looks?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Just a heater hose from another application. NAPA #10801/Gates 18801. Fit perfectly, just measured the old one against the correct bend on the new. $10 here, prolly no more than $6 on the mainland.



Sheezus, my engine is dirty... but, that's living on this island. What I don't get is the other day I saw an Aston Martin DB9... and its engine will look exactly like this given where I saw it. Same with the Ferrari 458 Spyder... what a waste. Maybe Oprah's teeming mass of entourage. :greedy::rolleyes:
Oh, I thought you were talking about the hose that houses the PCV valve. For that hose you replaced, I got some heater hose from Oreily's and cut it down to fit. Then a short while later I picked up one at junkyard that looked pretty good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Aich, you're both right, ndlm and Gamer -- it's called the 'air cleaner outlet tube'. Of course, no mention of what the hell it does, or why it needs a one-way valve. :sour::rolleyes:

My Toyota had a PCV on the valve cover, tube to the manifold, done and done, thought Ford might have something similar on the SPI. Apparently nothing that simple passes muster at late-90's Ford (they did need to get this ancient lump to pass emissions somehow, I suppose). Sorry for any confusion, gents... but as you can see, I was thoroughly confused. :bucktooth: Gonna go grab a beer and do some reading on this damned SPI smogwork in the FSM. :hilarious::writing: :thumbsup:
No big deal, it seems there are three different setups with the PCV valve setup. Two have the valve going to the intake manifold, and 2002 and newer have it in the valve cover I believe.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Went to my local Junkyard and found a set of aluminum Ford rims on a ZX2. Best part is the rims had almost new tires, except for one that must have been a replacement, but for the price I think it was a great deal. Tires are slightly bigger than what I had on before, but the ride is still as smooth.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,567 Posts
Rim and tire combo was 140, since my old rims are steel they can't be used as a core. With they would have been $70. They are are in decent shape, they look shiny but the fronts were covered in brake dust but I can probably clean that up, if not either I'll live with it or paint them.
 
1 - 20 of 1002 Posts
Top