What did you do to your 2nd gen today?? | Page 73 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

What did you do to your 2nd gen today??

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by chestypuller, Jul 6, 2014.

  1. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Im tardy in reporting what I have done with my 2nd gen Escort. Its a 94LX wagon. In late April we drove it 2000 miles from our winter home, in far south TX, up to Alexandria VA, where we spend summers. (south TX is hot in the summer!!) It ran fine for the 5 day drive. We stopped in four places overnight to visit with relatives along the route. I think I got 39 mpg, cruising at between 65-70. I had some times when the car would almost stall after coming off of interstates, because of a very low idle. This only happens after longish drives, where everything under the hood would be fully warmed up.
    I will be replacing the Idle Air Control Valve, and hope that fixes it. I may also replace the Throttle Position Sensor.
  2. LilRedWagon92

    LilRedWagon92 One simply cannot own just one escort, its a drug.

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    I’m going to try and use my old plastic piece but I’ll need to chop up my auto belt track, and cut a small piece of the plastic for the belt to slide through to be able to retract


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  3. LilRedWagon92

    LilRedWagon92 One simply cannot own just one escort, its a drug.

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    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Out with the old in with the new.


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  4. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Pulled the valve cover and found a broken head bolt. :(
  5. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Man, what a PITA. What tipped you off? I assume you're going to have to pull the head in order to get the stud out. Has the head ever been off before? Has anyone ever attempted to retorque or reuse the TTY bolts?
  6. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    Yeah, I've reused the TTY bolts. I had two sets, and selected ten bolts from those that weren't noticeably stretched. I then torqued them down to 55 foot pounds, IIRC.
    Recently I bought a set of ARP head studs so that I will never have to deal with crappy TTY bolts again.

    Here's my post (#5) on the subject:

    https://www.feoa.net/threads/head-bolt-drama.103705/#post-975057
  7. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Denisond3 has had it happen more than once, and the symptoms were the same. That and I had to RTV on the valve cover gasket at one point, and I don't think it's a coincidence. It's clearly the cylinder head that's warped, not the valve cover.


    Yes.


    No, but it's a Jasper rebuilt engine with around 183K miles on it.


    No. Nobody retorques head bolts, except for some Subaru owners.
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2019
  8. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    This guy had a broken a head bolt too:
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2019
  9. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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    Cylinder 4 front corner broke on me, but only during removal. It was sorely corroded from coolant.
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  10. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Should add this to the common problem list then. I think that this is what happens when you don't drop a valve seat first.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2019
  11. Intuit

    Intuit FEOA Member

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  12. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    I broke one head bolt on one of the heads I rebuilt and replaced. Then I borrowed an electric impact (Makita) wrench which was not too powerful, and hammered away on the next seized bolt until it started to loosen. I think the hammering action of the impact allowed the bolt to come out without breaking.
  13. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    This weekend I decided to repack my rear wheel bearings. I search the forum and I could not find anything. I also have a Mazda Miata and I repacked the wheel bearing hubs on the front. I remember the rear wheel hubs on the escort was the same set up. So, I give it a whorl. The first hub was a little tricky learning the differences from the mazda ones. After placing the wheel bearing on the bench with the lug side down, you take two washers and place them in the middle of the inner bearing surface between the races. Then use a socket that fits inside the racers and hammer it out. Here's one of the differences the escort hub, it has a u ring around the race. The front bearing and retainer will come out together. Place them with the race. After that turn over the hub and insert a socket that fits on the race and hit it with a hammer this will go through the grease seal. Remove the grease seal off the hub. The back bearings will have to come out one at a time. Retain will come out when enough bearing are removed. Clean all parts. Going back together is the reverse starting with the back ones. I found that placing grease on the retainer and placing two or three bearings on the retainer helps to hold the retain in place. One at a time until all back in, then fill the void with grease and put grease seal back on. Flip the hub back over to the lug side and this retainer you can put together out side the hub pre grease the inner race, place the retainer fill with the bearings in the hub and grease. Then insert the outer race and hit with a socket that fits. Here's another difference: that u ring, the ring gets inserted with the closed end of the u ring facing down. That ring now gets hit down the side of the race most of the way down. I used a scribe to achieve this. Now it's ready to be put back on the car.
    Let me know if everyone has questions.
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  14. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    We are supposed to repack wheel bearings?
  15. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    It helped tighten up the rear after changing all the suspension parts.
  16. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Next you'll be telling me that I should have retorqued my head bolts!
  17. Joey_Twowagons

    Joey_Twowagons FEOA Member

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    Yeah, every couple years give the TTY headbolts a quarter turn more.

    I have repacked front wheel bearings on my rear wheel drive cars, but it never occurred to me to repack rear wheels on FWD cars.
  18. EntenteEscort

    EntenteEscort FEOA Member

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    Went to the junkyard yesterday and found a 96 LX with an imaculate interior, but my wallet only let me pick a few things. Got a headliner, dome light, sunvisors, some trim pieces and a rear fin. SO happy about the headliner though! My 91 didnt have any of that when i bought it so im super stoked. Might end up going back for more trim pieces and parts.
    20190721_135611.jpg
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  19. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    I replaced my positive battery cable end piece and oil pressure sending unit (which was leaking). The battery cable end piece I was at the point where the original strap style had stretched to the point where even with a lead shim, it was still not staying on. The oil pressure sending unit was very easy to replace since I have my cylinder head off. The battery cable end I also wanted to replace with the cylinder head off, just in case it didn't work out and I had to replace the whole cable, it would be much easier.
  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Currently attempting to clean the electrical contacts in the dome/map light assembly. They are tarnished and have been mostly not working or working intermittently for over a year now. Current attempt involves soaking part of it in a vinegar based formula, and then using an ultrasonic cleaner (intended for cleaning jewelry) to do the rest. So far, based on it's appearance it seems to be working.

    I have the same issue with the light in the hatch as well.

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