What did you do to your 2nd gen today?? | Page 69 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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What did you do to your 2nd gen today??

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by chestypuller, Jul 6, 2014.

  1. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Difficult since I only have the cheapest Harbor Freight Welder and the metal is pretty thin, so I had to make a series of small tack welds (to minimize the number of holes I would blow through it), then caulk it up, the cover up the whole thing with the above pictured self adhesive flashing (which I highly recommend keeping around).

    This is what it looked like with the bumper removed:
    [​IMG]

    This is what it looked like when I removed all the loose stuff:
    [​IMG]

    This is what it looked like after I hit it with an angle grinder wire wheel attachment:
    [​IMG]

    I happened to have a piece of sheet metal that was the front of a washing machine. I used some of that to make a repair plate. This is what it looked like after I welded it on;
    [​IMG]

    I covered that with that self adhesive aluminum flashing that I show above, then caulked it on the inside. Once the caulk stops stinking, I'm going to put some more of that self adhesive aluminum flashing on the inside as well. I made no attempt to prime or paint it, seeing as to how the flashing stuff will probably be way better anyway. It also covers up all the little holes that I didn't cover or made while welding. For some reason I did not take a picture of that one with the foil on top of it.The bumper covers all of this up so there is nothing to see from the outside.


    It wasn't the only rust hole I fixed either:
    [​IMG]

    This one patched and with the flashing on it:
    [​IMG]

    This self adhesive flashing stuff is really sticky and has a thin (~1mm??) layer of something like roofing tar on it that make it particularly good.

    I would not expect rust in this area on most Escorts. I think this in only happening because in 1998 the car was hit real bad in the back and that whole vertical piece was cut out and a new one was welded in.
    EntenteEscort likes this.
  2. EntenteEscort

    EntenteEscort FEOA Member

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    Picked up a set of clear side markers a few weeks ago for the 91, aside from needing to pollish the headlamps, it doesnt look half bad.
    20180817_191953.jpg
    And I just got my dash mat in the mail today to cover the horribly cracked dash. 20180822_185053.jpg
    Next is the infamous defrost swith that i have on order and dash lights (which have never worked) while I'm at it. Then whatever little thing that has the check engine light on.
  3. Rafael D.

    Rafael D. fixser

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    Replaced both headlights and side markers ($45 + $25 from the auction site) IMG_20180822_195144.jpg
  4. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Heard a mystery squeaking noise, and suspected brakes. Upon inspection this seems unlikely, they can go another year no problem! I think it might be the struts. Car has 250K and the front struts were replaced at 115K. Car squeaks on the front left if car is pushed up and down or rocked back and forth. If I replace these struts, will probably use the quick variety. since strut mounts are originals and rubber on them is cracked.
    denisond3 likes this.
  5. Bullethead104

    Bullethead104 FEOA Member

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    zzyzzx I replaced all four of mine when I replaced the tires so this way I would be able have a four wheel alignment when the struts and tires were changed. That was two years ago the car since rides good and conformable. It sound like you have worn out strut mount.
  6. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    I can’t seem to find a set of clear front signals for my escort.
  7. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    Well I made a cold/ram air intake. I drilled a hole through the bumper to the air box area. I modded the maf into a piece of pvc tube. I’ve kept doing mods to increase mileage, next will be a hotter coil. Somehow my mileage is never what it should be. Well when I got the car it had a bearing noise from the accessory drive area. Never could figure it out. Well today the part finally broke. Water pump. It never leaked. The original 27 year old 122,000 mile pump. The bearing went so bad it rattles and the impeller was cocked and rubbing the housing. It looked like it had been rubbing for awhile before it totally failed. Well only place that had one was 100 miles away. Not to mention I’m 60 miles from home. Well the pump is right but the belt was not. Round tooth water pump and square tooth belt. Number on the box states round tooth. But the belt was replaced right before I got the car. Then in the midst of changing it, right after I put rtv on the gasket it starts down pouring. Pump is snugged and I’m soaked. So much for work tomorrow.
  8. Divine chaos

    Divine chaos FEOA Member

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    Oh and I had to adjust my drum breaks. And swap front and rear shoes. For some reason they aren’t auto adjusting (evident from the rear shoes being like new still) even though the adjusters were free.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  9. Rafael D.

    Rafael D. fixser

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    New Ford Escort 93-96 Clear Corner lights Set Pair Same Day Shipping from CA
    eBay item number: 153106246231
    US $24.99 free S&H
  10. Rafael D.

    Rafael D. fixser

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    New Ford Escort 93-96 Clear Corner lights Set Pair Same Day Shipping from CA
    $24.99 with free S&H
    View attachment 45144
    item number: 153106246231
  11. LilRedWagon92

    LilRedWagon92 One simply cannot own just one escort, its a drug.

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    Just turned 135k today, and decided to give her a well needed wash

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    zzyzzx likes this.
  12. JamesGarfield

    JamesGarfield FEOA Donator

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    Rafael, how much difference in road noise did this soundproofing make?
  13. JamesGarfield

    JamesGarfield FEOA Donator

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    VERY nice work. Impressive.
  14. Rafael D.

    Rafael D. fixser

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    Hi !
    Less than expected reduction of road noise but highly effective for damping engine noises, I've been removed the snorkel pipe before air filter box a long time ago and that particular annoying noise over 2000rpm is effectively reduced by soundproofing the firewall and filling all the empty spaces behind the dashboard with small plastic bags filled with fireproof wall insulation. The regular idle engine noises go away too.
  15. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Repaired the falling off side molding. On my next drive my voltmeter gauge took a dump.
    Some days, you just can't win!
  16. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Today I finished up a repair to a 96LX wagon belonging to a friend. It had a cracked head, probably from repeated overheating. So I got a rebuilt head from an ebay seller in Clearwater FL, a new timing belt and water pump, new radiator and cap, new coolant hoses; the usual stuff after a bad head. I had thought it was just a bad headgasket, until I took off the radiator cap and cranked the engine over. Coolant shot out of the rad in a geyser. The repair took a couple of weeks, between rainy weather and me being old; though the over all time I was working on it the head replacement was probably no more than 12 hours. There were several things I wanted to do as part of the work that werent essential, but likely extended the life of the vehicle.

    When doing the test drive, once it was warmed up it idled very slow. So I think I will put a .004" shim shock between the throttle and the 'stop' on the throttle body. He had mentioned that it would now and then shut down sitting at traffic lights.
    zzyzzx likes this.
  17. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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    Drove it. Dash voltmeter started working again. I'm guessing that it did not like the humidity. Already procured a digital replacement that will be easier to read anyway.
    denisond3 likes this.
  18. cwol97401

    cwol97401 FEOA Member

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    Digital replacement... Will it fit in the stock location on the dash, or somewhere else?
    Tapatalk
  19. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    On ebay I see combine digital voltmeter & ammeter units. The ammeters commonly only read to 10 amps, but some also feature a shunt - to be able to let you measure up to 100 amps. I would be glad to have my running voltage displayed, along with the current being supplied by the alternator. This would not be just the net current into the battery, but rather the overall current being 'consumed' by things on the car.
    These units seem to be about 1" by 2". I would likely mount it somewhere on/around the instrument cluster bezel. Maybe having a flip down gray plastic lens for night-time use if they dont offer 'dimming'.
    I would likely buy more than one though - not having a high opinion of electronic gadgets imported from hong kong.
  20. zzyzzx

    zzyzzx FEOA Member

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