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making the wifes commuter better
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I power washed the engine bay and sprayed the windshield when it was hot and it cracked from top to bottom. oops
 

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Drove mine about 30 miles into the mountains today for a campground picnic, with my wife and kids! Then let her drive back. Who doesn't have fun driving a manual?

Even though my wife drives my Escort kinda hard sometimes, I love her more than a car (but I've loved my car for a longer time).
 

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Is that a picture of something up from the titanic?
I will be curious to see how you repair such things, since its likely in the future for a lot of us.
Haven't got a clue how I am gonna fix it for the moment. If I am able to make it drive-able I am sure it will not last through the winter. I will be tearing out stuff after work tomorrow. If I can fix it....It will not be pretty. LMFAO
 

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Worst case scenario...it fails...will the car still drive or would it be on the tires?
I would not drive the car like that any more than I absolutely had to (meaning that I would move it around on the driveway type of thing). This is what holds up your car!!!

How does the other side look?

If you let it go, it will look like this:


You will need to weld to fix this. Use it as an excuse to buy a welder. You will use it for other things in the future as well.

As to how to fix it, do some reading here:
http://www.feoa.net/threads/95-wagon-broken-rear-springs.84177/
http://www.feoa.net/threads/rusted-shock-tower-how-to-fix.69530/
 

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I looked at them all and well I'll try to pull a miracle like with my broken thermostat housing bolt. Lol
I worry about that; if you're near it, and it "let's go", won't it give you a DANGEROUS "upper cut"????

Seriously?????

LarryR
 

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I looked at them all and well I'll try to pull a miracle like with my broken thermostat housing bolt. Lol
I'm still feeling proud of you for that thermostat housing feat.

LarryR
 
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I didn't do it today, but finished a couple of days ago.
Short version: I had to replace the back half of the brake lines on my '92 wagon.
My wagon lived in Michigan from '03-'11, so the road salt probably did the damage.
My wife and I were on the way to work one morning when we went around the corner and the brake pedal went to the floor. Fortunately, I was able to stop. I looked under the car, thinking it was a wheel cylinder or something easy like that. Nope. I found a wet rusty spot near the fuel tank. Joy.
After checking the PYP JY to get lines, I decided to do it myself, since it would have been a pita to get the complete lines out of the car, which means it would be more of a pita to get them back in.
I cut the lines about even with the B-pillar, since there wasn't any visible rust forward of the wheel well. Then I pulled the lines and used them as a template to bend new lines and flare the ends for fittings.
I got everything put back together to the distribution block and started bleeding the system and found that the right side line going from the distro block to the wheel leaked as well, so I had to bend that up as well.
I had to bypass the distro block due to corrosion giving PB Blaster the finger.
Everything is back together and the brakes work.
 
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spamseptictank: I did the same job on my 92LX wagon - though it shouldnt have rusted, having spent its entire life in VA. The rustiest spot was beside the fuel tank, and was out of sight until I was right under the car. In my case the brakes didnt fail while we were driving, it just started requiring a refill of the master cylinder reservoir each couple of days. I dropped the fuel tank, which may have made the line forming and replacing a little easier, and because I wanted to inspect the small rubber hoses running from the upper part of the tank.
Since then I have gotten 5 more Escorts for myself and other family members; and I am sure to eyeball that location next to the fuel tank, looking for rusty brake lines.
The problem of the flare nuts not coming loose is always a risk, as is twisting the brake lines when unscrewing the flare nuts from the wheel cylinders. Sometimes I wish they made flare nut wrenches in 'undersizes', like 9.7mm and 9.5mm, for getting a better grip on them.
 

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Today I changed a spark plug. Yesterday my engine would misfire every time I got on the gas hard. Today I started it up and it would not run on all for cylinders. by unplugging various spark plug cables and fuel injector cables I was able to figure out which cylinder was not working. I was suspecting a possible fuel injector problem but I decided to remove the spark plug first. Removing the spark plug was not easy. It would partially unscrew and then it felt like the threads were getting stuck on something. I sprayed some wd40 and carb cleaner down in the hole and worked the plug in and out a few times and eventually it unscrewed all the way out but it required a lot of force. I can only imagine what damage may have been done to the threads in the head. upon inspection the spark plug threads appeared to be full of junk and maybe even some metal. I'm not sure if it's metal from the head or maybe some anti seize caked up and turned hard? Also the threads on the spark plug are now deformed with uneven thread spacing. There is heavy pitting on the end of the spark plug. Pics below. Anyway I put in a new spark plug and it runs great. I hope the inside of my engine is not as messed up as this spark plug.





 

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Since then I have gotten 5 more Escorts for myself and other family members; and I am sure to eyeball that location next to the fuel tank, looking for rusty brake lines.
The problem of the flare nuts not coming loose is always a risk, as is twisting the brake lines when unscrewing the flare nuts from the wheel cylinders. Sometimes I wish they made flare nut wrenches in 'undersizes', like 9.7mm and 9.5mm, for getting a better grip on them.[/QUOTE]

I believe this flare nut wrench tool will answer that wish... They work great!!


http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Ratchet...&qid=1406778109&sr=1-3&keywords=e-z+red+flare
 
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