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OUCH! Looks like you're going to need everything up front. A visit to the JY should yield you all the parts you need. Did the crash hit your engine? Since you're going to have the whole front end apart now might be a good time to do that DOHC swap.....

John
 

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I had to repair front end damage to the 92LX wagon we still own and keep in VA. Needed a hood, fender, headlamps, grille, bumper, radiator, p.s. pump high pressure hose, alternator, engine accessory bracket - which had its top arm snapped off. Also had to straighten the support across the front of the radiator. I did that by using a heavy rope wrapped around it, with the rope also wrapped around a tree. I backed the car up in increasing lurches still it was back more or less straight. Threw away the a.c. condenser, as it got mashed. One of the ignition wires was sliced, but I used it till a later replacement. One of the frame horns sticking out was slightly dented - but I undid that using my largest adjustable wrench gripping it. Had to bang a little on the sheet metal where the fender attached to the side of the engine bay.
I got all the parts at one JY in Pennsylvania, but they didnt have an undamaged hood/fender in the dark blue; so those are sky blue ever since. It took me all day to get the parts, which involved the above plus two 13" wheels (which werent damaged in the accident), and all cost $400.
It took me slightly longer than a sunny summer day to replace/repair. The slowest job was getting the hood latch to work right again. The coolant needed replacement anyway. The cat converter wasnt damaged.
From looking at your photo, I would check that the left-right crossmember below the radiator is straight. If it got bent, the damage might also require a new front-to-rear crossmember that supports the bell housing.
That car is still my favorite Escort, being the first one I got. Its name is "the blue duck", which was what the prior owner's kids called it when they were young.

The cargo covers are a low priority.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Shoot, that looks like it hurt.
I cried like a baby. :cry: I love this car.
I appreciate all of your help. I will check all the things you said dave and while I am still looking for another 5 spd wagon I can drive in the mean time. I will then sell to the boyfriend, after I get mine going.
I did find another that has two weeks of life left before the crusher, since it wouldn't start today otherwise I would have bought it and sent it straight to the shop for a clutch. it is black and HAD a premium sound system power door locks etc. I wish I could have made it start. Not gas and or starting fluid would make it start. It turned over, and over. Oil clean. Popping via exhaust, guess it was startung fluid I just couldn't find the reason.
<sigh> I will go get the parts I can use off of it, and Dave I will buy the cover for your donated car, you know the goodwill faith car.l,;)
Gen2steve, I was gonna call you first but I womaned up and posted the photo here. Thanks dude, you are my first Gen2 friend. :inlove:I'm so deeply sorry this all happened........ :cry::(
Love you all to peices.....:smuggrin: thanks. I'm still a crying wreck.......Maybe if I try this.... :photogenic:I will believe it....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, We all know I screwed up and wrecked my wagon. However. I bought an 4 door Escort Lx
With a 1.9l engine. Auto transmission.
For Cheap!
Initial diagnosis is that the car has a blown radiator and a possible bad water pump and there is,standing water near the timing belt cover.
So initial conversation , we figure not worth repairing. However. I will put up photos of what it looks like in the ad.
https://postimg.org/image/h6ziteaq1/
https://postimg.org/image/yx17eblp5/
Obviously I get dibs on front bumper, and windshield grille and headlights and rear bumper
If anyone has immediate needs, please let me know.
I am grateful for any thing and especially from members here.Gen2Steve Denison3
So, now. I understand. That the engine I shouldn't try to save?
What should I squirrel away?
The power door locks and Power Window locks I will salvage and I pray that the wagon existing wiring for upgrade is there? I'm really asking since I am such a new escort owner. I'm not even sure what's right and will work or not. (Forehead slap)
Who needs any parts in Northern Cali? Does anyone want the car after I get what I need? Like has anyone need or want Gen2 Escort Stuff?
The interior is Gray and looks initially clean, owner was non smoker.
Just posting feelers, it's an automatic, with decent body. Brake parts interchanging? what else?

Did I mention I hate winter?
Lol listening to suggestions. Interested;)
 

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Holy crap, Kelleigh!

I was out of town last week (in the middle of the AZ desert), so I just saw the bad news.
Why didn't you call or text me?

Anyway, it sounds like you are going to try to save the wagon using the donor 5-door? That is quite a big job, whoever you are and whatever your skill sets.

Along with the obvious parts, you will also need to replace the blue airbag control box (buried behind the radio). I believe that any gen2 box will work, provided it matches the number of airbags present. From the pictures, it looks like the 5-door is also a 1994 / single airbag car, so you should be good there. In addition to the horn pad / airbag unit, also swap the springy mounting brackets for the horn pad - they will have been trashed by the airbag deployment.

I don't think you will find electric window and door lock wires in your non-power harness, believe it or not. However, every 5-door seat (but not the rear side bolsters) will also work in your wagon. All the front body stuff is the same. The hatch support struts are different. Unfortunately, the rear bumper is NOT a fit for your wagon.

I have a brand-new core support assembly that I never used (since I changed my mind on repairing a similar hit my oldest daughter's car took), but shipping it up to you would probably be cost prohibitive. Also, it is not a bolt-in part and would require welding to change it out.

Give me a call when you can.
 

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The advice from Gen2steve advice is all excellent & accurate.

I dont know what it means to have standing water by the water pump. I wouldnt assume the engine in your donor car is all that bad. If we assume it overheated, the head might only need to be milled, and for peace of mind I would get the valve seat inserts for the intake valves replaced, and of course new valve stem seals. This is work about any automotive machine shop can do - though getting a rebuilt head from an ebay seller might be about the same price. The ones I got from CHI for $200 on ebay were a rebuilt head with new valves , new valve seat inserts, & new valve stem oil seals: But no cam, lifters, rocker arms, or the studs that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds on. I just swapped those parts from the old head, and sent the old head back (in the prepaid) shipping box. It took me a couple of hours, most of the time spent unscrewing the studs from the old head. Also you will need a new cam shaft oil seal. If you do this, be sure to put some sealant (I like Permatex ultra black) on the threads of the bolt holding the cam sprocket onto the cam. The cam is hollow and carries the motor oil to the various moving parts in the head. And of course, always, when putting a bolt or stud back into an aluminum head, use some antiseize compound on the threads.

If you are talking about having a mechanic or machine shop rebuild the engine that is in the donor car - that would not be economically feasible unless you are more determined and better fixed than anyone I know. But if you rebuild one yourself, I think they are all worth saving. Its just a good bit of work to do; though much easier than working on a V6 or V8 engine of course. The only things you would need a machine shop for would be honing the cylinders, cleaning the block to get rid of rust in the water jacket, and --maybe-- decking the top of the block to eliminate weak spots for a new headgasket, and replacing the freeze plugs. (I do that myself, and with the engine out of the cr, its not hard at all).

Note: I have never rebuilt an engine without taking the pistons and crankshaft out of it. Never will either. Its just too easy to do with the hard part accomplished, i.e. the engine is sitting on a bench out of the car.

About the rear bumper. Rear bumpers for wagons are not interchangeable with those for the hatchbacks, sedans, or coupes. Not only is the depressed area to let the gate swing open different, the six studs that hold the bumper on are longer. Since I was not able to find a bumper for a wagon, I made up one, starting with a new hatchback bumper - and posted what I did. Its in the subforums for “Escort wagons”, on the second page, titled “My wagon bumper effort ....”. It worked out well enough that I would be happy to do it again, for my other Escort wagons
Front bumpers would be about the same for all 2nd gen LX Escorts. Very minor differences, but they all interchange for mounting up.

My limited experience with the type of steering wheel on the 1994 LX cars is that I was not able to get the steering wheel removed! I could get the airbag and horn stuff off, but the fit of the wheel onto the steering shaft defeated me. Two broken steering wheels resulted. My solution was to swap the entire steering column, obtained from another helpful member of feoa. The earlier years (not having any airbags) were easy to get off. The later ones with an airbag; zero luck in my case. Unfortunately the 93 and earlier steering columns cant be used, and I think, the 95 and later ones dont interchange with a 94. But Im only guessing there.
 

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The advice from Gen2steve advice is all excellent & accurate.

I dont know what it means to have standing water by the water pump. I wouldnt assume the engine in your donor car is all that bad. If we assume it overheated, the head might only need to be milled, and for peace of mind I would get the valve seat inserts for the intake valves replaced, and of course new valve stem seals. This is work about any automotive machine shop can do - though getting a rebuilt head from an ebay seller might be about the same price. The ones I got from CHI for $200 on ebay were a rebuilt head with new valves , new valve seat inserts, & new valve stem oil seals: But no cam, lifters, rocker arms, or the studs that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds on. I just swapped those parts from the old head, and sent the old head back (in the prepaid) shipping box. It took me a couple of hours, most of the time spent unscrewing the studs from the old head. Also you will need a new cam shaft oil seal. If you do this, be sure to put some sealant (I like Permatex ultra black) on the threads of the bolt holding the cam sprocket onto the cam. The cam is hollow and carries the motor oil to the various moving parts in the head. And of course, always, when putting a bolt or stud back into an aluminum head, use some antiseize compound on the threads.

If you are talking about having a mechanic or machine shop rebuild the engine that is in the donor car - that would not be economically feasible unless you are more determined and better fixed than anyone I know. But if you rebuild one yourself, I think they are all worth saving. Its just a good bit of work to do; though much easier than working on a V6 or V8 engine of course. The only things you would need a machine shop for would be honing the cylinders, cleaning the block to get rid of rust in the water jacket, and --maybe-- decking the top of the block to eliminate weak spots for a new headgasket, and replacing the freeze plugs. (I do that myself, and with the engine out of the cr, its not hard at all).

Note: I have never rebuilt an engine without taking the pistons and crankshaft out of it. Never will either. Its just too easy to do with the hard part accomplished, i.e. the engine is sitting on a bench out of the car.

About the rear bumper. Rear bumpers for wagons are not interchangeable with those for the hatchbacks, sedans, or coupes. Not only is the depressed area to let the gate swing open different, the six studs that hold the bumper on are longer. Since I was not able to find a bumper for a wagon, I made up one, starting with a new hatchback bumper - and posted what I did. Its in the subforums for “Escort wagons”, on the second page, titled “My wagon bumper effort ....”. It worked out well enough that I would be happy to do it again, for my other Escort wagons
Front bumpers would be about the same for all 2nd gen LX Escorts. Very minor differences, but they all interchange for mounting up.

My limited experience with the type of steering wheel on the 1994 LX cars is that I was not able to get the steering wheel removed! I could get the airbag and horn stuff off, but the fit of the wheel onto the steering shaft defeated me. Two broken steering wheels resulted. My solution was to swap the entire steering column, obtained from another helpful member of feoa. The earlier years (not having any airbags) were easy to get off. The later ones with an airbag; zero luck in my case. Unfortunately the 93 and earlier steering columns cant be used, and I think, the 95 and later ones dont interchange with a 94. But Im only guessing there.
 
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