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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, when I first got my car, I could very easily lock up my brakes if I wanted just by slamming them on. Recently I almost hit a van that pulled out in front of my while I was doing like 55 in a forty five and I slammed on the brakes. I had the pedal all the way down but the wheels were still rolling. I still stopped pretty fast but not as fast as I could. I used to have to be careful with the brakes and now I have to really stomp on them to get any stopping power out of them. However I recently fixed my E-brake and can lock up the rears quite easily, so I don't really think it's the brake pads, but I don't know much so I could be wrong. Do my brake lines need bleeding? Can air get in there if you're not actually messing with them? And if so is bleeding them something easy that I can do myself or should I have a pro do it? What's the best way to go about this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Speed limits in missouri are just there so that the cops can give you tickets. Nobody pays attention to them. On average I usually do ten over, and I usually have tons of people passing me doing like 25-30 over. Nobody does the speed limit around here. Ask Major. It's true. ;)
 

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sounds like you need to bleed the brake lines and its not that hard really.
all you do is (starting from the farthest from the master cylinder to the nearest so it would be
1 BR
2 BL
3 FR
4 FL
and all you do is (open the lid on the master cylinder) and there is a bleeder valve on the caliper (looks like a nut with a little finger sticking out of the middle of it) and open them one at a time and let it drip untill you get a constant flow or trickel make sure you keep the mastercylinder full though or your problems doing this will grow. I have done this before to 4 wheel disks but i cannot remember and am not sure exactly how to bleed drums my guess is it would be similar.

now i have written all of this crap which may be kinda useful butback to the symptoms... Is the pedal squishy or solid because (i would guess its squishy) if its squishy this is your problem and this is how how fix it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The pedal is pretty solid; not like when you go through the mountains and overheat the brakes. When I press lightly they work just like they always did but under hard breaking they do not work as well. I need to buy brake fluid if I am going to bleed them right? Also where is the master cylander located?
 

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a couple of things...
1 if they work fine under soft braking that would lead me to think your pads are just thinand they get really hot when you hit the brakes hard and when they get hot they dont work very well and one reason the rears could work so well is they only do about 20% of the braking and the other 80% is done by the front so take one of the front wheels and look at the side of the caliper there should be an opening where you could see the thickness of the pads and dont get this confused with the steel (i believe steel) backing there should be at LEAST 1/8 inch of each pad left and if there is not change them.

2 but the fact that bleeding the brakes is so cheap (after you check the thickness of the pads because if the pads are shot problem solved) yes go and get some more brake fluid it says on the top of the cap what kind to get.

well i totally forgot to ask if you have a 2 gen (that should all be similar to your car if not) but if you do the master cylinder is that black bubble thing on the firewall directly infront of the driver (but in the engine compartment) and you put the fluid in the thing sticking out of it

I hope this helps with all of my correct shop lingo "thingy" "black bubble thing" but if unclear on sumthin let me no and ill try to help you
 

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another thing i forgot to say is that a quick way to bleed the brakes is to have a friend press the brake pedal in slowly after you open the valve or vise versa (sp?) and hold the pedal in untill the valve is closed. then release from the pedalrepeat if needed but watch the fluid level because you go through more this way.
 
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