[BlkY2k]

Wasn`t sure where to put this but I`ll try here. I recently was willed a 89 lx 1.9 with 39k original miles. Yeah its real clean, was my grandmothers. I`ve had to do a few things to it to get it back up and running but I noticed that its starting to leak antifreeze around the bottom of the timing belt cover.
So I found your site and ran a few searchs, read a few posts and now I think I can handle this. My only ? is this , I know I have to bring it up to tdc, and move the tensioner, and remove the cam sprocket. Are there any tricks to keeping the cam lined up after that, I mean while removing the belt and pump? I see some people saying that they have had to remove the crank sprocket also, do I?
I `ve got the new pump, gaskets and belt and would like to do this tomorrow if at all possible. Any help would be appreciated.
It looks to me like you have a great site here and I`ll definatly be back. Thanks

 

[marshpoprock]

Really no trick for keeping the cam from turning. Just check that the cam and crank are both at tdc once the timing belt is on. You will need to rotate the engine once you have the tensioner tight. That would be when you need to check tdc. If the cam and crank are off, you'll need to reposition the timing belt until you are at tdc on both.

Some people are able to slip the timing belt through the very tiny gap around the crank pulley. I haven't tried it that way, I remove the pulley.

Oh, yea, welcome to the site

 

[SVTADAM]

Welcome.

The cam will hold its place once you remove everything. Just make sure the pointer on the cam sproket is in line with the divot in the head when you take off the belt and when the new one goes in.

You will also need to take off the passenger side motor mount to do the timimg belt. Support the engine with a jack.

Other than that I would recommend a new timing belt tensioner too. The springs have been known to get weak with age.

Watch our vaccum lines. I disconnected one on accident when I did my timing belt and the engine raced at idle. Kinda scared me a bit.

Then use a timing light and make sure its in time. There is a grey plastic plug you need to take off near the distribtor to do this.

Good luck.

 

[BlkY2k]

I was just looking at it and I see the motor mount problem. I`m going to try and slip the belt through where your talking because it looks like the crank gear is going to be a pitb.
I`m going to start on it tonight as soon as it cools down, my son drove it to work today and just got home.
Grey plug by the dist huh? I`ll have to find that thanks.

Do you think I`ll need the tensioner? It only has 39k on it even though its a 89.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Not to be argumentative, but there is no need to remove the engine mount to change the timing belt. I've never done it.

There are some special tools you'll need. First would be either a deep offset 19mm box wrench, or the Ford specific Crank wrench (do a search in the 1st gen section for OTC and you'll find my post with the part numbers listed for the tools). A cam wrench is also suggested to get the proper torque on the belt, but it's not necessary. If the belt tensioner is snug, either use a deep offset 10mm box wrench, or a 13/32 socket with a shallow yoke U-joint (name brand, like S-K, Snap On and Craftsman). The wrenches themselves can be cheap, if you have a Harbor Freight in your area, buy a set of their offset wrenches. The final specialized tool would be a remote starter to let the starter motor break the main crank pulley loose.

The only person I've noted on here who was able to take their timing belt off without removing the main pulley did so because they never put the belt guard back in place, which prevents belt removal. Just get the engine to TDC. Line up the main pulley mark with the largest ridge on the timing cover and the cam pointer with the dot in the head. The dot is very hard to see, and you might have to lift up the valve cover to see it properly. I scribed a line straight down from the dot to the cam on my head to make things easier.

Overall tools you'll need for this are:

12mm socket for removing the timing cover nuts
11mm socket for removing the timing cover studs...it makes things much easier for me since I have large hands.
19mm deep offset box wrench for the crank bolt.
13mm socket (or special tool) for the cam bolt or sprocket.
About a 14" long prybar for moving the tensioner back
10mm offset box wrench or 13/32 socket with u-joint
Torque wrench.
Probably 14, 15, maybe 17mm sockets for removing the A/C pump and alternator. You can't get to the through bolts for the pump inlet unless those are out of the way.

The torque for a new belt is 27 pounds, 10 for a used one. I suggest changing the belt along with the water pump. A new timing belt tensioner is also a good idea, but I've not seen any with new springs included. I've just mildly helped mine close, and have no issues, even with a milled head. I hope this helps and clarifies.

 

[FordMan59]

I've never removed the crank sprocket on my '88 Pony to replace the timing belt. I can barely work the new belt through the small opening and get it squared up with the sprocket. It takes a little while, but can be done. I haven't changed it on my '88 GL yet so who knows whether it will be possible on it or not?

In the list of tools needed above "Cow" states a 12 MM wrench for removing the timing cover. On my '88's it's a 10 MM nut.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Sometimes it won't be the same. I just made a list based on what I've used the most. Ford also specifies a 10mm bolt for holding the shift linkage to the shaft on the tranny, but mine has an 8. Maybe mine is the oddball. I've never even come close to taking the belt off with the shield on the crank, there's just no space on my engine. I also have 2 spare shields sitting around. I guess it keeps everything in its place.

 

[FordMan59]

These odd size nuts and bolts that are not what's specified are probably something that an assembler picked up off the floor and thought it was good place to put it.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

I'm not complaining...never had a problem out of things yet.

 

[marshpoprock]

The 12 mm would be for removing the studs that the timing cover retaining nuts attach to.

All the shift linkage bolts I have ever dealt with are 8 mm, including the Tempo I had

 

[UnexplodedCow]

The Tempos I had used a 10mm nut. I don't know where the 8mm bolt for my car came from, but it's the proper length and stud size, just with a small head. Why does this sound perverted? Someone just sprayed Axe.

 

[BlkY2k]

Well guys I finally got it back together and running, I need to set the final timing but its running smooth right now.

I tracked down the offset wrenches and a remote starter switch, got the pump and new belt and tensioner together. Told the son were doing it tomorrow, well....... geuss what? The belt blew that night, what fun, what fun. Got it towed home and just got done, whew it was a load off my mine when I reached in and hit the key and she fired right up.

While I was at it I did a tune up, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and a new ignition module. So it should be good to go for awhile..... I hope. Thanks for the help, I`ll try to post some pics of it in a day or 2.

 

[UnexplodedCow]

You're very fortunate the engine wasn't damaged when the belt broke. They are non-interference, but sometimes things still happen. How'd you like the offset wrench and remote starter method?

 

[BlkY2k]

The offset worked like a charm and remote made it so much easier, not having to have run around and bump the key. Thanks for the tip!

I was worried about the valve train but it doesn`t seem to be affected.

I need to set final timing and it says to unplug something to do that. What am I looking for? The tag says 8* btdc does that sound about right?

 

[UnexplodedCow]

Ah, you need to unplug the SPOUT connector. It's typically gray, just a little connector right by the TFI module. If you didn't mess with the distro's position, which wasn't necessary for the pump and belt replacement, you shouldn't have to adjust the spark timing. You're welcome for the tip. To date you're the first to have tried it