Im not sure what you are asking about as to how the buckle connects. Normally the belt comes from a slot in the center console near where the 'lap belt' connects, and runs up to the black sliding buckle goody on the 'auto seat track' mechanism. It can be unclipped from that black buckle, though the belt doesnt really seem to retract much. The sliding cable that does the moving has a tough plastic tab on it, about an inch from its far end. This tab sticks up into the center part of the sliding buckle, between the fore and aft 'guide' parts of the buckle. The buckle slides in the front section the aluminum track extrusion. The cable itself runs in the back part of the extrusion, in a rounded tunnel that runs the length of the extrusion, and is open on one side to the front section.
I had to take my assembly off, as it was stopped in mid-track, and its fuse was missing. It blew the 20 amp fuse I used to check whether it would move, though the passenger side belt moved fine. I looked on ebay and at online sources, and found only one or two used drivers side assemblies for over $90, or plenty of new passenger side assemblies for about $60. (And 'up').
Being cheap - I took mine out to see if I could free it up. I was able to do it, but it was a long slow & messy process. Getting the whole thing out wasnt too hard - I have lots of practice taking off interior side trim pieces. There were about 3 electrical connectors to take apart, about 8 10 mm bolts, and a couple of screws.
I had hoped the track assembly could be dismantled, like into two halves: But the track part turned out to be a one piece aluminum extrusion. I unhooked the cable drum from the motor, and found the cable was what was stuck. It wasnt the motor, nor the sliding buckle assembly.
I turned the track assembly upside down and dribbled thin oil into it. 3-in-1 oil or kerosene would work. After a while I was able to pull the cable out , by clamping the track assembly to my bench and pulling on the drum with both hands. Pulling and being patient.
To get the cable all the way out of the track assembly I took out the small pins that hold the two black end pieces onto the track. That took a small steel pin driver (a small nail ground flat on the end). Once I had the cable out (the sliding buckle item comes out with it) I sprayed solvent (gasoline) into the end of the track assembly and swished it around to rinse out the muck. This took several repeats, until the solvent that ran out was no longer a thick sludgy gray. It even stained my gravel driveway! Then after letting it dry -thoroughly- I pushed some vasoline down into the seat track. I used my propane torch to heat the track just to where the vasoline would run like water, down the entire length of the track. I didnt heat it enough to damage the rubber strips on the front (open) side of the track. It was too hot to hold without gloves, but by no means as hot as boiling water. The cable had a short section where the plastic cover over the steel cable was split. From old age I guess. I used a razor to trim a tiny flap of this that was sticking out - just to make it a smooth round cable again.
Then I reassembled the cable and sliding buckle to the track, put the track end pieces back on, fought the drum back onto the motor - and re-installed it in the car. It now worked fine.
Since I have 3 2nd gen. Escorts in the family, I plan to remove the other 'auto seat tracks' and lube them too, even though they currently work.
