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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for a driver side assembly. Motor doesn't have to work but the rest needs to. Does any one know how the cable is attached to the buckle? both of mine were cut before i got the car and i am not sure how it is supposed to look. Any help would be great or if you have one you don't want let me know.
 

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Im not sure what you are asking about as to how the buckle connects. Normally the belt comes from a slot in the center console near where the 'lap belt' connects, and runs up to the black sliding buckle goody on the 'auto seat track' mechanism. It can be unclipped from that black buckle, though the belt doesnt really seem to retract much. The sliding cable that does the moving has a tough plastic tab on it, about an inch from its far end. This tab sticks up into the center part of the sliding buckle, between the fore and aft 'guide' parts of the buckle. The buckle slides in the front section the aluminum track extrusion. The cable itself runs in the back part of the extrusion, in a rounded tunnel that runs the length of the extrusion, and is open on one side to the front section.
I had to take my assembly off, as it was stopped in mid-track, and its fuse was missing. It blew the 20 amp fuse I used to check whether it would move, though the passenger side belt moved fine. I looked on ebay and at online sources, and found only one or two used drivers side assemblies for over $90, or plenty of new passenger side assemblies for about $60. (And 'up').

Being cheap - I took mine out to see if I could free it up. I was able to do it, but it was a long slow & messy process. Getting the whole thing out wasnt too hard - I have lots of practice taking off interior side trim pieces. There were about 3 electrical connectors to take apart, about 8 10 mm bolts, and a couple of screws.
I had hoped the track assembly could be dismantled, like into two halves: But the track part turned out to be a one piece aluminum extrusion. I unhooked the cable drum from the motor, and found the cable was what was stuck. It wasnt the motor, nor the sliding buckle assembly.
I turned the track assembly upside down and dribbled thin oil into it. 3-in-1 oil or kerosene would work. After a while I was able to pull the cable out , by clamping the track assembly to my bench and pulling on the drum with both hands. Pulling and being patient.
To get the cable all the way out of the track assembly I took out the small pins that hold the two black end pieces onto the track. That took a small steel pin driver (a small nail ground flat on the end). Once I had the cable out (the sliding buckle item comes out with it) I sprayed solvent (gasoline) into the end of the track assembly and swished it around to rinse out the muck. This took several repeats, until the solvent that ran out was no longer a thick sludgy gray. It even stained my gravel driveway! Then after letting it dry -thoroughly- I pushed some vasoline down into the seat track. I used my propane torch to heat the track just to where the vasoline would run like water, down the entire length of the track. I didnt heat it enough to damage the rubber strips on the front (open) side of the track. It was too hot to hold without gloves, but by no means as hot as boiling water. The cable had a short section where the plastic cover over the steel cable was split. From old age I guess. I used a razor to trim a tiny flap of this that was sticking out - just to make it a smooth round cable again.
Then I reassembled the cable and sliding buckle to the track, put the track end pieces back on, fought the drum back onto the motor - and re-installed it in the car. It now worked fine.
Since I have 3 2nd gen. Escorts in the family, I plan to remove the other 'auto seat tracks' and lube them too, even though they currently work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Let me clear this up. Where the buckle and the cable meet is what i would like to know. How does the cable attach to the sliding buckle? Are there clips that attach to the buckle or is it molded pastic?
 

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DrunkinMist: I will work up a sketch and post it on a photo site, showing what the sliding latch/buckle looks like, and how the cable moves it.

I can agree its not easy to replace parts of an assembly, but Im going to look into taking a passenger side 'auto seat belt track' and using it to fix up a damaged one for the driver's side. I believe the cables are the same left and right, and so is the -bare- track aluminum extrusion. Many of the other parts are set up for one side or the other.
I would say the hardest part of changing out parts of a seat belt track assembly is finding any ueable parts to do it with. I dont expect anyone to be making new cables - yet. In the 50's it was hard to get Model A Ford parts too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for the help. This is the kind of help i need.
You woundn't have the diagram for the wiring as well would you. :)
I am trying to track down if it is a wiring issue or if it is a track assembly issue. When i go home tommorro there is a brand new out of the box passanger side waiting on me to install still need to see if i can fix the driver side.
Are there any other points that will make the system not work? Hanyes manual has nothing that can help me.
 

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I uploaded my sketch. The URL is:
http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/ii11 ... 2247307248
Or go to www.photobucket.com, look for albums of 'denisond3', choose the carhobby1 album. There are only 2 pixs in it right now.

I dont have a wiring diagram, and the diagrams in the Electical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (a Ford OEM manual) are confusing.
The switches at each end of the track assembly are just limit switches, to tell the motor to stop when the cable slider has reached the end. There is a connection at the bottom, behind by the motor, to the 'door open' switch.

You can easily check the motor operation. There is a plastic connector right on the motor/drum assembly. You have to unclip it and take the mating connector off to be able to get the track assembly out of the car. of the wires in that connector, you can see that two of them go to the motor. All you have to do is to run 12 volts to those two wires. The motor will turn (if its okay and the cable isnt stuck). It will turn either way, depending on how you hook up the +12 and -12 volts to it. Figure on just giving it a very brief jolt of current - until you see if the slider is stuck or whatever. Otherwise you could burn up the motor.

The belt will stop working if the cable is jammed (which can be in the track extrustion OR in the take-up/play-out drum), if the fuse is blown, if the 'door open' switch is dirty (which means the dome light wont go on/off when the door opens either), and of course if the motor is bad.
I have had to unscrew the 'door open' switches and clean them in solvent on a couple of my Escorts. I like to get extras of those each time I go into a pick-n-pull yard.

The more I learn about Escorts, the better I know what parts to scrounge, when in Salvage Yards, from parts cars, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well i got a left one from the junk yard but it didn't work. I have to wait till tuesday for the new one to get here. I know how the top works kind of but still not sure it is just pressure that pulls the buckel back and forth.

Are there any other systems or cpus that run that seat belt system?
 

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There is a control module under the driver's seat for the seat belts.
The door switch for the shoulder belt is located inside the door, on the latch assembly, not the black switch (dome light) located on the lower corner of the door jamb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there a way to test these points to see if they are making a connection? And for the control module is it just a swap and see if it is working?
 

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Door Latch Switch
1. Key OFF
2. Disconnect the door latch switch connector.
3. Measure the resistance between the two terminals at the switch.
Results: Door Open-less than 5 ohms = good, Door closed-greater than 10,000 ohms = good. Higher than 5 ohms open = bad, less than 10,000 ohms closed = bad.
4. Replace switch if necessary.

Front Shoulder Strap Switch
1. Key OFF
2. Disconnect the front switch connector.
3. Measure the resistane between the two terminals at the switch.
Results: Shoulder strap at front body pillar -less than 5 ohms = good, Shoulder strap not at front body pillar -greater than 10,000 ohms = good. Higher than 5 ohms = bad, less than 10,000 ohms = bad.
4. Replace track assembly if necessary.

Rear Shoulder Strap Switch
1. Key OFF
2. Disconnect the rear switch connector.
3. Measure the resistance between pin 6 (Y/R - LH side, W - RH side) and pin 7 (BK).
Results: Shoulder strap at center body pillar -less than 5 ohms = good, Shoulder strap not at center body pillar -greater than 10,000 ohms = good. Higher than 5 ohms = bad, less than 10,000 ohms = bad.
4. Replace track assembly if necessary.

Seat Belt Retractor Motor
1. Key OFF.
2. Disconnect the rear shoulder strap switch.
3. Apply 12 volts to terminal 4 (BL/GN - LH connector, W/BK - RH connector).
4. Ground terminal 1 (BR - LH connector, Y/GN - RH connector). The shoulder strap should travel.
5. Reverse polarity. The shoulder strap should move in the oppisite direction.
6. If motor fails to operate, replace track assembly.

These tests are what the '95 Ford service manual calls for.
I am still trying to locate a test for the control module. I would have to guess that if everything else checks out OK, then the module is bad.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so i got the passanger side in yesterday and it works great. So i don't think it is the control module. And i did test the leads at the front and back of the assembly. They check out ok. So i really don't think its the control module. That really helped thou. Now all i have to do is find the driver side seat belt. Whole assembly. My motors work on both sides. Still can't find a way to make that assembly work. Trying a few diffrent things. Need to pick up some more cable. Trying to make a new top. And i can't where that last lead in drive or passanger door is. It is just the switch at the base of the door that makes it move back and forth.
 

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My 91 LX has only a single switch at each door. For the front doors it turns the dome light on, and moves the seat belt forward. The wire from the switch runs to the bundle of wires that also goes to the seat belt motor. Its hard to see this until you take the bottom part of the seat belt assembly loose at the base of the door pillar.
I know that some cars have two switches at the front doors; but not the 91 or 92's. I cant check on my 94 LX, since its in Texas, but I am in Virginia.
 

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I pulled the driver's side door latch from a '94 wagon so I could get the power door lock switch. It had the switch on top of the mechanism for the seat belt. I don't know how '91 - '93 is wired, but '94 & '95 have the switch in the door. It is a two wire switch. You can only get to it by removing the door panel and taking the latch out. I know if I push in the black switch in the door jamb with the key on (my '95), all it does is shut off the dome light and that damn warning chime.

I just called the local Ford dealer, and they told me that the wiring was the same for all 2nd Gen Escort auto seatbelts. I don't think that helped much, did it? :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is so wierd. Mine is wired like the 91-93. If the key is in the on position and i have the door open and push the switch at the base The seat belt will retract to the b pillar. I wounder if it has to do with the model. I got a 95 GT. I pulled the door apart because i had to fix a speaker any ways and there is only the wiring for the auto lock and power windows. Ends only none of the other hardware is there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
88scortgt

is it possible for one side of the computer to work and not the other or is it run by the same control module?

By the way were did you get that wire check flow chart?
 

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I got the flow chart from the '95 service manual.
The control module is one box, but looking at the wiring diagram, it appears there are seperate left and right controls inside it. So I do think one side can burn out and the other still work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Where did you happen to come across the service manual? I got the crapy hilton manual and it doesn't have any of that stuff.
 

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I got it on CD from a member here over a year ago. As soon as I get back from work, I'll see if I have enough ink in my printer to get you the wiring diagram. Should be around 9 a.m. or so. Gotta go...
 
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