w00t! 36+ mpg wagon! | Page 3 | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)
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w00t! 36+ mpg wagon!

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by LowriderS10, Feb 4, 2010.

  1. 93Cobra2771

    93Cobra2771 FEOA Member

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  2. yournamehere

    yournamehere New Member

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    ^^^That's impessive! ^^^

    What's the "p&G mean?

    Cobras FTW!
  3. 93Cobra2771

    93Cobra2771 FEOA Member

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    P&G = Pulse And Glide - a fuel economy driving technique. You can look around on that site and find out how it's done pretty easily.

    My other car = 96 Geo Metro. Lifetime fuel economy of just over 53mpg combined city/hwy. Best I've ever hit with it was just over 61mpg. 1000cc of japanese fury - 55hp. LOL

    :D
  4. yournamehere

    yournamehere New Member

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    I wanna see the 93 'bra. what color? Vibrant, teal, or black?
  5. juggalo

    juggalo New Member

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    lol, i said somethin like that before on the last page.

    yournamehere, ur temp on ur car sounds fine.
  6. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Its more than impressive - its INFURIATING! We got 40 mpg on a long open road trip last srping on our 5 speed 94 wagon. Maybe it will be better when we do that tirp again, as the engine was just rebuilt before that last trip, while now it has about 8000 miles on the rebuilt engine.

    My question about p&g is; what does pulse and glide really consist of? Do you only do it on flat ground, or only on rolling hills? Do you shut off the motor when coasting. or let it idle? Do you let the engine stop as you are coasting up to long red lights - then restart when the light goes green, etc etc.
    Please tell us!


    I would like to get a Geo Metro, or Chevy Sprint - with the 5 speed, & mostly rust free. But I have so many cars already, as my wife reminds me each time I point out a Geo on the road.
    I have great hopes for getting good MPG on my Hyundai Excel, which I am now working on; putting a 5 speed tranny in place of the 4 speed it came with, along with a new clutch.
    Got to get back to the hobby now....
  7. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    The temperature guage on my '97 wagon only goes about 3/8 or the temperature scale and the one on my '02 goes to about the 1/2 way point so it just varies by car. If the heat is working OK your thermostat is OK. If it was stuck open it would take a long time for the temperature to get warm enough to heat the car up.
  8. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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  9. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    I have 3 2nd gen Escort LX's. One of the temp gauges usually has the needle straight up and seldom moves much. The other two point toward the left side of the gauge, like between the "N" & the "O" in normal.
    I have one of those infrared thermometers. When the temp gauge is up to where it normally sits, the temp of the upper radiator hose is about 190-195 degrees - on all 3 cars. About the time that hose temp gets to 205-210 degrees, the radiator fan comes on its low speed. I wish I could do this while someone was driving it on the highway, but its probably illegal to sit atop the engine of the car when going down the interstate.
    Until I changed the sensor for my 94 Escort, the temp gauge barely moved upscale at all - didnt even reach the N in normal.
  10. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    The only 2nd gen I ever drove was a 93 and after I fixed the t-stat the gauge pointed straight up when it was warmed up.
  11. NorthCoastEscort

    NorthCoastEscort New Member

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    I got 35 mpg on my first half tank, which I think is a good place to start. I did not do any hypermiling techniques intentionally to get a base to start from. We will see what this week brings but with all the snow it will be tough to take the corners as fast as I would like.
  12. IlBrutto

    IlBrutto Guest

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    I think the best I ever did was 34mpg in my 5 speed. The wagon routinely gets about 31mpg. My longest trips have only been about 40 miles, however, so considering that its not that bad.
  13. 93Cobra2771

    93Cobra2771 FEOA Member

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    Teal car, 44k original miles, head/cam/intake/exhaust, etc etc. Can look at pictures on corral.net in the gallery, under same username as here.

    Thanks.

    P&G works best on flat ground and downhill portions on hills. Does not work on uphill portions. I live in East TN, so there are hardly any flat portions, it's always slightly up and slightly down.

    Two versions of P&G. "Hard" and "soft". Hard is shutting the motor off and coasting. Soft is kicking over in neutral and coasting. P&G also works best at speeds less than 30mph.

    I did a few things to help my economy. Aired tires up to max sidewall pressure. Made sure alignment was in good shape. Removed roof racks. 50% underdrive crank pulley. Sythetic blend motor oil.

    For any highway trips, best thing to do is to drive as slow as you feel comfortable, and keep your foot STEADY. If you start pulling a hill, DO NOT give it more gas if you have to. This is called "driving with load". You'll find your mph will vary as much as 10mph. DO NOT do this if there is a lot of traffic, or you will have people ticked off at you. What this does is keep any fuel enrichment from occuring (everytimeyou press the gas pedal, you have fuel enrichment).

    P&G works best in around time situations. Also, learn how to time redlights. When you are approaching one, keep your momentum up by coasting as you come up to it. Idea is to keep your momentum up and not have to start from a dead stop.

    If you know you are going to get stopped, turn the motor off. Sitting and idling is a MPG killer.

    You guys should get on the ecomodder forum and browse around. Lots of great tips and tricks. Only do the ones you feel safe doing, as some of the methods are REALLY out there.

    I have no doubt that I could get in the escort and refine my technique even further, as I have learned a lot since then with the Geo.

    By the way, drafting a couple of seconds behind a semi truck is worth some really nice gains.

    Also, cold weather makes a HUGE difference in mileage, to the bad.
  14. EscorGo

    EscorGo FEOA Donator

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    Until he has to hit his brakes and you become a bumper sticker on his trailer.

    I hate this hypermiling fad. It's dangerous to the driver and those around him! People don't drive as good as they think they do.

    [​IMG]
  15. 93Cobra2771

    93Cobra2771 FEOA Member

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    Uh, I said a few seconds, not right up on him. 2-3 seconds at 55mph is PLENTY enough gap to stop in time. Now, if you are running 70mph, you want to increase that time.

    And, of course, you only get as close as you feel comfortable.

    FYI, 2 seconds at 55mph is almost a full tractor trailer length.
  16. EscorGo

    EscorGo FEOA Donator

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    Sorry, not targeting you. 2-3 seconds is safe enough distance to travel behind someone. It's the drivers you can't even see their headlights in your rear view mirror that bother me. I think you have to be tailgating that close to benefit from the draft though.
  17. madmatt2024

    madmatt2024 FEOA Member

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    The 2 second rule is actually the law in NY state and it has kept a sometimes distracted me out of trouble.

    Though, if you had to pick a vehice to tailgate a tractor trailer isn't a bad choice. Given how long it takes them to stop you have alot more leeway before you actually hit. The only problem is if you do hit you can loose your head due to the high bumper placement on the trailer.
  18. denisond3

    denisond3 Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks for the p&g examples. I routinely coast up to lights in neutral, unless I want the car to decelerate more, and I know the cycle times for most of the traffic lights where I drive. When driving the Escort with the automatic tranny I am normally in neutral at lights anyway, just to avoid engine vibrations. I am also one of the slower cars on the road, always in the right lane.
    Where I drive its mostly flat, & our best MPG is on the 500 miles of I-10 from San Antonio to El Paso. It has lots of very gentle up/down grades where I could coast w the motor shut off; though it would take a little thought. And out there, traffic is NOT An Issue. Even though the speed limit is 80, I dont feel at all threatened going 55 mph. And at night its a smart idea to drive slow; to avoid hitting deer and running over jackrabbits. Have you ever needed to clean stickey remains from the bottom of your car? The best aid to high MPG in this area is a tailwind.

    I think being 2 seconds behind a semi is further back than most people drive already, even while talking on their cell phones & otherwise not paying attention to what they are doing. At least from what I see everyday on the expressways near large towns where there is steady traffic. Two seconds going at 55 mph is 162 feet. I see plenty of examples of people no more than 3-4 SUV lenghts behind the trucks.
    The stopping distance for a car under ideal conditions (dry level road, good tires & ABS brakes) is 144 feet, and the typical reaction time would add between 80 to 150 more feet to your overall stopping distance. But of course the semi isnt going to be stopping 'instantly' either - unless he hits an overpass abutment.


    I have a niece who will soon be 16, and does so much 'texting' on her cell phone that she has bumped into doors & other people. Her dad has told her she can have a learners permit after she totally gives up her cell phone.
  19. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    If you're following a semi or large box truck at 200-300 ft you'll benefit drafting him. I've got a Scan Gauge and have watched the mpg readings when following them at that distance and it gives a pretty good increase in mileage, but I seldom draft them because they vary speed so much on hills and I like to use my c/c and keep a constant speed.
  20. Lambo_Paul

    Lambo_Paul Guest

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    Engines are designed by nature to run most efficiently once they reach optimum temperature. There are a multitude of reasons for this. If you shut your car off at red lights and also coast with the car off, the short periods of time you actually DO run the engine will not be efficient. ALSO, it is harder on the motor.

    Now, this isn't to completely knock this idea. I have occassionally turned the car off to coast down a long hill, then I just put the car in gear ( a high gear) and let off the clutch again and she's back up and running. I don't shut the engine off at lights however because the fuel used to start the engine hardly differs from the amount used while idling for that little bit. If it's a REALLY long light, well then, maybe, even so, people should keep in mind that starting and stopping their motors causes a larger amount of wear and tear.

    The HARSHEST time for your engine is when you start it because the oil has all dripped down to the bottom. For a brief moment, your engine runs without lubrication. Once it's up and running, it's happily pumping oil all over the place to keep it lubed.

    Basically I just wanted to caution agaist not letting your engine get warmed up and starting the engine more often than normal, as it can have adverse and Costly effects. I'd go into more detail about this, but I've probably written too much already.[/quote]

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