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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

didnt even know feoa was going on,ive been spending all my time on msprotege.com lol i just finished my FMIC in the speed. It was made by none other than corky bell. 2psi increase, insane increase in efficiency over stock, and beat all the other competetors for the MS in the FMIC department.

here is a link to some of the arrival pics:

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91027

here are some of the install:

http://www.firmsolutions.biz/jernt/jeff/

but ive got good news. My mazdapseed will be going up for sale soon. im actually selling it to buy another escort (everybody always laughs when i say that) but its happening. I am just torn right now on whether to buy a 93-96 lower mileage GT and turbo it or get a 91-92, drop in a gtx. FMIC and 3" exhaust will be the first mods done. What suggestions do you guys have for engine management. Looking to hit 300hp. I know a girl making 400 flywheel hp in her 1.8l miata stock internals, so I dont think 300 will be too high, hell my 2.0l FS is hitting 225whp at 10psi, the only thing stopping me from turing up the boost to 14 psi is that the rods will blow out. Im surprised mine havent already, but since ive overengineered the turbosystem for 225whp, the motor is barely working (but one missfire and its gone 4 sure, damn FS rods) anyways, good to be on the topic of boosting escorts again and hello to everyone from the old board!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
btw i got a couple more toys:

Installed Mods:
On the Intake side of things:
BEGI FMIC
Beyhondspeed Powder Coated Blue Hardpipes
AEM Intake
Forge Motorsports BOV-->psst
JoeP MBC set to [email protected]
On the Exhaust Side:
2.5" SS Mandrel Downpipe
2.5" SS High-Flow Cat
3" SS catback to MSP muffler
Fuel Delivery Handled By:
Methenol Injection Kit
94 Octange PumpGas
JoeP Fuel Cut Denser
Keeping Things Cool Under the Hood:
Redline Water Wetter
H20 IC Sprayer
Colder Copper Plugs
Keeping Things Working Right:
Steering wheel gauge pod w/ Autometer Boost Gauge
AWR Mounts
KartBoy Exhaust Hangers

And of Course: 180psi in all cylinders
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/412854/1

btw check out this girls site, 400hp on stock internals BP. she has a mint RX7 and lotus too.

heres her build

ENGINE
400 crank Horse Power, 347 to the wheels. 280lb feet torque.
Daily Driven

COMPLETELY STOCK INTERNALS 1.8 Liter 4 banger, never cracked open.

Electromotive TEC II ECU

VISHNU CNC Crank Trigger/pickup.

RC Engineering 650cc injectors

Magnecore Plug Wires

VISHNU Billet Dual Feed Fuel Rail

Completely Custom Stainless Steel tubular Manifold

Tial 40mm wastegate vented to atmosphere

Garret T3/T4 Turbo custom trim

XS Intercooler core with custom endtanks

RC Engineering Throttle Body
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bump for ideas on engine management.

i was looking at haltech, but i hear that problems with cold start may arise, and living in canada doesnt really help that.

i think I remember MattM was running a afc controller (i think apexi), and something to retard the timing, how is that working out?

I think someone was talking about using a gtx ecu on the n/a bp, what would be the advantage of this? I take it you would still need a apexi style device to correct the a/f since the gtx is around 8:1 compression, so the a/f would be wack on 9:1, think this would be worth it? I guess its just to retard the timing with the the ecu rather than something like a msd unit, any thoughts/advantages?

Final Q of the day,, If i was do grab a GTX, I would put on the n/a head. Would I want to keep all of the gtx valvetrain and cams or keep the n/a setup?

thanks
 

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There are a ton of options out there if you go standalone. I personally am going with UltraMegaSquirt when it comes out. Tons of features and it's cheap too.


And yes you will want to put the GTX cam in the N/A head. I'm pretty sure the valves are the same as the N/A BP until you get a GTR.
 

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I never had a proble3m with cold start with my haltech E6K. Install is strait foward and simple. Should only take a few hours to install.
 

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Installing a Haltech E6K on your Mazda BP Motor

Preparing your motor prior to the install will take a little bit of time, but will be well worth it. Follow most of my instructions and you should be up and running in no time.

Factory Harness Removal (Optional)

Unplug the ECU and remove it from the vehicle. Clip all tie downs and unbolt all bolts holding any of the loom to the chassis. Pull the loom out from the engine bay through the firewall. This does not need to be done if you wish to keep cruise control or factory idle.

Note: Some wire colors may vary, I have tried to spot them all and note them but it may differ on your harness.

Haltech E6K Install Notes

Fuel Injectors

Batch Fire (Optional)
Batch fire is only for people who need to use the extra Digital Outputs on the E6K. This mode fires the two banks of injectors alternately, i.e. 1+2 fire, 3+4 fire. This in term is like waste-spark but with fuel. You will always be injecting 1 cylinder with un-needed fuel.

Haltech BP-Turbo

INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
INJ-2 (BLUE / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
INJ-4 (PINK | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)

Sequential (Recommended)
Sequential injection allows fuel to be delivered to the engine at a time that produces best combustion. Since this time is different for each cylinder, sequential systems inject fuel at different engine angles for each cylinder. This means better gas mileage and smooth idle!

Haltech BP-Turbo

INJ-1 (LIGHT BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-1 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
DIG-2 (WHITE / BLACK | +13.8V) Cylinder-3 (Yellow | WHITE / RED)
INJ-3 (GREEN / RED | +13.8V) Cylinder-4 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)
DIG-1 (BLUE | +13.8V) Cylinder-2 (Y/B | WHITE / RED)


Ignition / Distributor

Factory Ignition
When using the factory ignition setup the Ignition Setup to the following settings:

Trigger Input: Rising Edge
Trigger Output: Falling Edge
Fires on: Falling Edge
Constant Charge
Charge time is 3.0ms.

Haltech BP-Turbo
Trigger Input Harness Distributor Harness

Ground (BLACK) Ground (BLACK / LIGHT GREEN)
Trigger (YELLOW) Trigger (WHITE)
Home (GREEN) Home (YELLOW / BLUE)
+13.8V inj (RED) +13.8V inj (WHITE / RED)

Haltech BP-Turbo
Ignition Output Igniter | Coil
This can get tricky so follow along closely

Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Igniter + (GREEN / WHITE)
Ground (BLACK) Igniter - (BLACK / ORANGE)
Condenser - (BLACK / ORANGE)
Igniter>Coil + (Merge YELLOW/BLUE)

Haltech BP-Turbo
This is for using the stock ECU harness and leaving the ignition circuit intact.
LIGHT GREEN (GREEN / WHITE)

Using an MSD 6A
Change the charge time to 1.0ms and the Firing Edge to Rising.

Haltech MSD
Ignition Output 6A

Ignition Output (LIGHT GREEN) Trigger (WHITE)

Factory Coil Blaster Coil
Coil + (YELLOW / BLUE) Coil + (Small ORANGE)
Coil - (BLACK / ORANGE) Coil - (Small BLACK)


External Sensors

Throttle Position Sensor
The factory GTX TPS can be used in place of the haltech sensor if you do not want to fabricate the appropriate mount, or do not have a “D” shaft type throttle body. The automatic transmission TPS from the Escort GT or Protégé LX will be the same.
Note: Each TPS sensor requires a different throttle body.

4-wire GTX (or Automatic) Haltech

+5 Volt (RED / GREEN) +5 Volt (ORANGE)
Throttle % (GREEN / WHITE) Throttle % (GREEN)
Ground (BLACK / BROWN) Ground (BLACK)
Idle Switch (RED / WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

Oxygen Sensor
If you are using the Haltech 4-wire o2 sensor or a standard 4-wire Bosch o2 sensor the following wiring diagram will suit you. To retain the use of the factory 4-wire o2 found on most GTX and N/A motors use the second diagram, you will need to retain your factory harness for this to work properly.

4-wire GM / Bosch Haltech

Heater + (WHITE) +13.8 V (GREY / RED)
O2 Signal (BLACK) o2 Signal (GREY)
O2 Ground (GREY) Ground (BLACK)
Heater - (WHITE) Ground (BLACK)

Factory 4-Wire Haltech

O2 Signal (RED / BLUE) O2 Signal (GREY)

Cooling Fan Relay
Be careful when hooking this up, always use a Ground to test this wire with the key on. If the fan comes on then it is ok to hookup the PWM to it. The settings for most cars are:

On Temp: 190
Off Temp: 180

*Using a 180F Thermostat.

Factory Wiring Haltech

Relay Ground (BLACK / GREEN) PWM 1 (VIOLET / WHITE)

Boost Control Solenoid
There are three parts to the solenoid, one is the wastegate inlet, one is the manifold pressure inlet and one is the breather. You may have to switch the wastegate and manifold lines according to which way you hook up the BCS wires. PWM Settings are:

Period: 33mhz.
Use Wastegate: MAP 1
Boost Cut: 12

Boost Solenoid Haltech

Solenoid + (RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
Solenoid - (BLACK) PWM 2 (PINK / BLACK)

BAC Valve
The BAC valve works in conjunction with the ISC (Idle Speed Control) valve on this motor. From 0-104F the wax inside the ISC starts to melt allowing more air into the manifold. There are two settings to this and they vary for every car, they are below:

Input/Output
Idle Speed Control: DISABLED
Target Idle Speed: 1000
Cold-Idle Up: 200
Start RPM: 200
Number of Steps: 100
Cold Temp Limit: 104F
Cold Min Pos: 78 *varies
Hot Min Pos: 77 *varies
Cold Open: 10
Hot Open: 20

PWM 3
Period: 10ms.

BAC Valve Haltech

BAC + (WHITE / RED) +13.8 V Power (RED)
BAC - (BLUE / ORANGE) PWM 3 (BLUE / GREEN)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
dennis you are the man. haltech it is. thanks for the help.

btw, this is using a obd-1 harness with bpt motor right? or was your scort obd-II, my memory is fading here.
 

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I'm OBD II but you don't use the factory harness, it's a complete stand alone. My factory ECU is a paper weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
this is gonna be fun...what do you use to configure all of these settings? a laptop? wonder if i should even put it on the road until i get everything installed and tuned, this might take me a while to get running right. guess i should go buy the motor now. are all gtr motors spoken for or are there some fs anywhere, cant find any but figured id ask in case somebody knows something
 

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someone AIM'd me and told me about this site...had my link on it.

Vtec, good luck with your project.

I personally wouldn't touch a Haltech with a 10 foot pole. Ive had 4 Haltechs on 3 different cars and we've had problems with all of them. In fact I have an E6k manual laying on my desk now being used as a coaster for my drink.

Standalones require a LOT of effort. You're litereally running all aspects of the engine. Some people think this is easy. It is not. There are many shops out there who say they can tune, and cannot. I see alot of cars that last maybe 4 or 5 months...and run poorly during that time to boot.

There are ways to make alot of power doing things very simple with rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors and a properly sized turbo.

Standalones are a big step. My project is with a stock motor but I did EVERYTHING right, took my time, called in the best tuners out there, and spent a year building and tuning the car in baby steps. To quote Shiv Pathak.. Even if you use a built motor it can still blow up, it just takes a little longer.
 

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onefastmiata i dunno who you are and i don't want a sword fighting contest with you. but i know 3 people running haltech all of which are e6k users and have had no problems! infact my buddy just got e6x the newer style for his build and its just a matter of time before we put it in. of course we are not stupid we will probly not tune it ourselves at first. jsut watch the guys do it and ask alot of questions in the process. then figure out the small things in tuning on the streets that you can't always do on a dyno.


NEUMAN
 

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hey, if thats your bag, thats fine. What I'm saying is that Ive had nothing but trouble with them. I dont see how it can be a fluke but who knows. I've even worked with Haltech Gods like Steve Kan and "the hitman" when he was in from Australia...nothing but trouble.

But thats my experience based on other systems like the Electromotive and Motec.
 

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onefastmiata, Can I ask what problems you had with Haltech systems? I would like to know why you don't like them.

and vetc-this, you need and old pos laptop with a serial port to program it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
nice, i can find an old lapper for cheap. I think I am gonna try out the haltech. i think im gonna get a $300 scort for day to day driving (my old one actually if i can fake a safety) and pick up a nice one and drop the gtx in. onefastmiata, i would take your advise, but since im not going to be using it as my daily driver i think im gonna give it a try, but thanks for the heads up. im sure i will have many problems knowing my luck, but i figure even if i end up selling the scort or smahing it, i can transfer the haltech to another car. I phoned up a shop i know and they told me they want $40/hour canadian for running on the dyno + $60 and hour labour to tune the car. I asked how long it would take, they told me the longer they have it for the happier i will be with it. what do you guys think? how long did you tune yours for?
 

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Standalones need to get with the 90's and use the damn ethernet port. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
wouldnt a usb connection be better :wink:
 

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It would require another chipset. Most newer processors that the standalones are being based off of have an ethernet controller built in.

The UltraMegaSquirt has one and they are playing with the idea of using for the interface or for some other engine control aspect.
 
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