[capitalcrew]

First post here, I know. A well gone over topic, the VSS. Mine is shot, went to change it... well, the bolt head broke off. I really don't even know what to do now. What is the best way to go at this..? Has anyone had this problem before?

 

[denisond3]

If you mean the small bolt (10mm hex head) beside the VSS, that only holds down the clamp. You can still try getting the VSS out. Aside from the clamp, it is held in by the friction of the O ring in the middle of the VSS against the hole in the transaxle. But corrosion has likely occurred between the aluminum transaxle case, and the aluminum base of the VSS. I know its in a tough area to reach - but soaking it with penetrating oil, then grabbing it as close to the bottom as possible with vise grips pliers, and working the pliers to try and 'turn' the VSS housing, is one of the two techniques I would try. The other one is to use a wood chisel (not a real good one) & drive it in, between the top of the transaxle case and the lip on the bottom of the VSS.
A combo of these two got the first one out that I had to deal with. On mynext Escort, I had to quickly/carefully heat the transaxle case with my oxy-acetylene torch, and still do both of the above. In that case the tran saxle was out of the car (to get a new clutch). Being out of the car made it much easier to work on, but the VSS was still stuck in there really hard.
When I put them back together, I had a coating of an anti-sieze compound on both the VSS and the transaxle. I would think the VSS would stay put, even with the clamping bolt broken off, but I havent tried it.
Good Luck!

 

[capitalcrew]

Can I run it without the bolt in the clip if I can get it out?

 

[capitalcrew]

Wow, I'm sorry. I totally missed the end of your post. My mistake man.

So far no joy on getting it out. Doesn't help that I can't find my vice grips.

 

[capitalcrew]

I read that if you break it, and the top plastic half comes off without the aluminum that you need to be careful because the gear can fall off? I was wondering if I could pull the shaft that is sticking out, out, and if it would bring the gear with it. That way I might be able to better get at the aluminum piece to get it off. This thing is being a real sunovabitch.

 

[capitalcrew]

Vice grips, chisel, flathead, hammer, torch. Nothing has worked so far. I really hope I don't have the pull the tranny just to get the stupid vss out.

 

[denisond3]

Im almost certain that you wont be able to get the aluminum part out, just by pulling up on the shaft. The gear is only made of plastic anyway.

You can see what the VSS looks like by going to www.rockauto.com, putting in the make, year, model, then clicking on the link for "electrical" then "speed sensor", and there will be little images of the part. Clicking on the images will magnify them.

Here is a link to another discussion of this problem:
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=67899

Inside it there is a link to an earlier discussion too, not that any of these will help you much, except to let you know you arent 'alone'.

I may try -creating- a tool to grasp the metal base of the VSS, since that metal base has 'flats' on it, where the clamp fits. Hopefully the tool would work to rotate the metal base of the VSS, and break it free of the corrosion. I have 3 2nd gen. LX Escorts, and I like them well enough that am looking to buy my 4th one, to fix up for a relative.

I also have the engine out of my 91 LX right now (due to defective piston rings), so can reach the VSS fairly easily from above.

 

[zzyzzx]

may try -creating- a tool to grasp the metal base of the VSS, since that metal base has 'flats' on it, where the clamp fits.

Kind of like one of those slide hammer axle pullers, except smaller?

Actually, I think a tool as you describe may already exist, almost. It's a small slide hammer with an angled attachment ued to pull dents.

 

[capitalcrew]

The two things that stick up out of the aluminum fell apart while trying to use them to twist it off. It is about 3/16s off. Only problem is, those pieces came off in well, pieces. What I'm worried about is the bottom part where the o-ring is getting stuck. Yeah.. I can pry all of the pieces of the lip off, but wtf happens if I get all of that off and the bottom part is still stuck in? I feel like I'm going to end up pulling the engine/tranny just to get this effing thing off.

 

[capitalcrew]

The only thing I can think of at the point is to run a tap down the hole where the shaft for the gear was before it fell out. Gear is lost for sure now. If I run a tap down it I can thread a bolt in, and maybe take the hood off and hook it up to a comealong.

Unless anyone else has a better idea.

 

[denisond3]

At this point you may be the one creating a new procedure.
If you get a bolt threaded in, I wouldnt hook it up to a come-along. I think you would want something like a full-sized slide hammer to supply the upward force. You need a sharp 'jerk' more than just a steady pull. If t/he only thing you can do is to exert a steady upward pull, then finding a way to strike the side of the VSS aluminum part would be useful. You need to break the bond of the corrosion between VSS and transaxle case.


Im looking for another Escort, a 91-94 LX, not a coupe, preferrably a 5 speed. To get the price way down Im looking only for one that Does Not Run; since I would pull the engine/transmission for the usual rebuilding/work anyway. And one of the jobs would be to ensure that VSS wasnt stuck tight in the case before it went back into the car.

 

[Intuit]

Luckily I was able to twist & pull mine free. Mine I believe are all aluminum though. No rust or corrosion like the ones I saw in the junkyards.

Mostly for kicks I tried to pull one in a junkyard vehicle where I didn't have to give a flip if the thing broke. Damn... with vice grips, BARELY got the thing to twist and it STILL wouldn't budge.

Anyway my point is, if you're going to test out a new procedure, the junkyard might be a good proving ground. Of course, the older the junk, the harder it will be to pull it. So look for a rusty '91 that looks like it's been there awhile.

 

[capitalcrew]

I have a spare tranny. I'll just throw that in if I screw anything up.

 

[zzyzzx]

Anyway my point is, if you're going to test out a new procedure, the junkyard might be a good proving ground. Of course, the older the junk, the harder it will be to pull it. So look for a rusty '91 that looks like it's been there awhile.

+1 for the above comment.

 

[WILBERFORCE7]

i had that same problem except i ended up trying to drill it out. not the best choice as metal shavings and gears dont go together but i was lucky cause my bit caught and the whole thing spun out with the drill bit! That was a pain in the ass....

 

[capitalcrew]

Well, if you want to try it my way go for it anyone. The first tap you will need is a 1/4-20. Take the tap, and find a nut you can press over the square end of the tap with a vice, so you can run it in with a socket. After you do that, use some threaded rod with a nut and your choice of weight to make a slide hammer. A sleeve will pop out. Then use a 5/16-18. That is where I'm at right now, and my father is on a threaded rod run. I'll be trying for the rest of it in 5 minutes or so. I'm pretty confident with it taking that sleeve out. Use heat.

 

[capitalcrew]

Correction, 5/16 wasn't enough meat for the threads. 3/8 is better.

 

[capitalcrew]

THIS WORKED.

Procedure from start to finish.

Squeeze the plastic with vice grips until it cracks and stuff, then pull it up. Pull the metal post through the hole so you expose an open hole. Thread that hole with 1/4-20 thread and get 3' of threaded rod, a nut, a washer, and some sort of weight. An old crank pulley works. A small sleeve will come out. Rethread with a 3/8-16 and follow the same procedure. Any sort of penetrant will help. Red dye penetrant is THE best thing to use, if you have it available.

I did not lose the gear.