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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bet there's a few in here that have been answered before...sorry.

1. What would be the advantage of running a 160 deg Tstat (or was it a 170?) in the summer and a 180 deg Tstat in the winter? I realize the obvious answer "it'll make your car run cooler because the fan will come on at a lower temp..." but will it actually help in anyway real world shape or form?
1a. What is the stock Tstat for? 200 degrees or 210 degrees?

2. Would it be legal/safe for my health to remove all my AC components to free up the weight & get a belt for a GT w/o AC?
2a. OR would it be smarter to have Hires tear it all out for me?
2b. What kind of water pump should I get? I want something that will last at a decent price. No I don't want to go the cheap route.

3. Does ANYONE have a how-to or some pics on exactly how to advance timing by 5 degrees?
3a. Do I loosen the ENTIRE distributor or just the cap?

4. Would running larger spark plug wires help (less resistance)? Or would they promote advanced wear and tear on the module/cap/distributor/wires/plugs?

5. Would buying a new O2 Sensor help in anyway shape or form? How expensive are these?

6. Does anyone know what causes irregular idle while it's warm?

Here's the symptoms/characteristics:

~It shows no engine codes (on the dash)
~My intake tube is 3 months old...so no tears in intake
~slight hole in exhaust after cat
~only happens when warm & after driving for 5 minutes +
~happens when gas is full, half, & @ near empty with "low fuel" light on
~I smell no fuel anywhere at anytime

Sidenote: when cold, and in 1st gear, it will bog down in the mornings like it's being starved & suddenly kick in and rev out. (I don't rev past 3500 in the morning anyway) Could that be the first (and long ongoing) sign that my fuel pump is dying?

7. Does anyone know where I can get an adapter flange to bolt my turbo to the exhaust manifold? Here's what the turbo exhaust entrance looks like:



yes that is my foot...lol

Thanks Gurus. :D
 

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1. I recoment using an OE temp TStat. The lower temperature ones do not give better performance and sacrifice fuel mileage because the ECU is trying to get the engine to operating temp.

1a.IIRC it is 192 degrees

2. Does your AC work? How much weight do you think you are really saving. 10 lbs? You think that will make that much of a difference?

2a. Refer to above answer
2b. get a waterpumt that is made for your engine. I have never seen one that is better then another.

3. & 3a. Got a timing light? You can not adjust the timing by lostening the cap. You must adjust it using the bolt to loosen it and turning the dist. Make sure you jump the 10 pin to ground (please someone confirm this for me, it has been a while) Also, MAKE SURE YOU SCRATCH A LINE ACROSS THE DIST. IN CASE YOU SCREW UP THE TIMING. If you need to go bact to OE settings, it will be easy.

4. A good set of wires are all you need, unless you are running a performance coil.

5. If your O2 sensor is bad, then yes. If it is good, then no. Depending on the year. Should only cost 50.00 or less.

6. Many things from bad plugs, fuel filter, clogged injectors, clogged air filter, bad wires, etc. Change wires, plugs, cap & rotor, fuel filter, air filter (if needed). If the O2 sensor is original, replace it.

7. Never had to do that...sorry.

I was wondering if that was your foot...glad you cleared that up. ;-)


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1. Not that I don't believe you, but can anyone else confirm that? I wouldn't think running 20 degrees cooler on a 95 degree day would hurt the engine that badly. A cooler running engine is a happier engine.

2. To answer your question on my question...No it doesn't work. Which is why I want to take it off. The condensor, compressor all the lines and the pulley for the belt itself I would guess weigh about 50+ lbs from what I've heard of people saying "it's not that it robs power directly...it's just the weight savings you get..." etc etc.
2b. Alright. Will do. But remember that I will be running a turbo at 7 or so psi, so would it be wise to upgrade to a larger capacity water pump?

3. Timing lights are anywhere from 20 to 50 dollars here. I'd have to take off the plastic cam cover piece to actually use it, and even then it'll still be hard to see the crankshaft pulley. Thank you for the tip on marking the cap/rotor original location. That will in deed help tremendously.

4. Thanks I will be installing an MSD ignition coil soon.

5. I dunno if it's bad. the only way to figure that out is to buy a new one.

6. Thanks

7. No problem. :wink:
 

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1) dunno so wont answer

2) no the working fluid in your AC is very toxic. get someone else to remove it or at the very least drain the a/c system.
b) OEM hasn't failed my yet...

3)i have talked to a lot of people about advancing the ignition on the BP05(EGT) the gain to PITA ratio is not worth it. but if you want to do it: jump the GND/TEN, then umscrew just the disty cap. rotate, rescrew and done.

4)I run 9mm NGK wires and love them. the less resistance in a wire the larger the spark. V=IR

5)new stuff always helps but if your original o2 isn't bad save your money.

6)I have the same issue. i have traced it to a bad ground, a poor FPR, and drty injectors.

7) yeah go buy a plate, drill and cut the nessicary holes, volia $30 flange. i did this when i built my turbo mani for the SOHC engine i used to have. (remember i have a protege) it was the cheapest way to go. a little time and effort and you'd be amazed. it is not hard you just have to be paient(sp)
 

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http://www.apten-us.com/chips/faq.asp#10

Should I run a colder thermostat?
There are a lot of questions that come up about thermostats. Can you go too cold? What thermostat should I use in my car? Let's put these questions to rest.

A colder thermostat will NOT cause your car to run open loop all the time. The engine goes closed loop based on time, not temperature. A colder 'stat may not make the car run much cooler unless you calibrate the electric fans to turn on sooner. If you have enough air flow (when cruising down the highway) then the engine will run cooler. Around town, in city traffic, it probably won't run much cooler without the fans turning on sooner.

The hotter the engine runs, the more efficient it is. This assumes that you are not knock constrained like on a blown engine. So, if your engine is naturally aspirated, and it is not knock constrained, then you want to keep the hotter thermostat. If you live in a warm climate, like Texas, then you can probably benefit from a colder thermostat, and thus more spark. The hot air in these type of climates tend to make an engine more likely to knock so a colder thermostat helps in these special situations.


I have taken my EGT to the drag strip. One time, I let it sit with the engine off and hoos poped up. Another time, I left it running. The hot engine was faster.

Tom
 

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James92Scort said:
2b. Alright. Will do. But remember that I will be running a turbo at 7 or so psi, so would it be wise to upgrade to a larger capacity water pump?7. No problem. :wink:
We drive an Escort. This isnt a 350. Not everybody makes performance parts for it. I have NEVER seen a performance replacement part for our engines. (Excluding: plugs, wires, the usual crap)

Please dont think I am busting your chops or anything. I am enjoying this.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Caymen said:
James92Scort said:
2b. Alright. Will do. But remember that I will be running a turbo at 7 or so psi, so would it be wise to upgrade to a larger capacity water pump?7. No problem. :wink:
We drive an Escort. This isnt a 350. Not everybody makes performance parts for it. I have NEVER seen a performance replacement part for our engines. (Excluding: plugs, wires, the usual crap)

Please dont think I am busting your chops or anything. I am enjoying this.

Tom
I didn't realize I was driving an Escort. Sorry. Thanks for clearing that up. :D

I realize no one makes performance parts for it, but I figure there has to be a water pump out there that's designed for a higher capacity that just might bolt up to the engine itself. :?
 

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Caymen said:
1. I recoment using an OE temp TStat. The lower temperature ones do not give better performance and sacrifice fuel mileage because the ECU is trying to get the engine to operating temp.
If you run no t-stat than yes your car will be in cold start mode, ti will run rich and might keep the O2 sesnor in closed loop mode.
If you use a 180º the computer should be fine with that.
 

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Just my 2 cents worth...

1. In the summer or winter, if you have a certain temp thermostat, the engine should run at about that temp. In the winter, the colder outside air should just make cooling the engine that much easier. In other words, just because it is hotter outside doesn't mean that the engine will run any hotter in the summer. The radiator and the works are there to maintain the engine at a certain operating temperature (the temp of the thermostat installed). Will a colder thermostat help or not? I'm not sure.

2. Probably not absolutely legal if all the R-12 is not drained out first. I just retroed mine to the R-134a refrigerant and boy is that nice to have cold air. :lol:

3. Since I had just replaced my timing belt and checked timing, I can help. Yes, someone else mentioned jumping the TEN and GND pins in the diagnostic terminal. This way, when you set the timing you will be setting it to ten degrees prior to Top Dead Center. You will have to remove the timing belt top cover so you can see down into the engine bay well enough. I also used some of my wife's glitter glue in the crank pulley notch to "highlight" it more (really helped). You will then have to undo the distributor, not the Phillips screws, but the bolts closer to the valve cover. Then with a timing light, move the distributor until the notch in the crank pulley lines up with the 5 position on the guide next to the pulley.

4. No opinion.

5. A new O2 sensor would help, if needed. Of course I have been asking myself lately how to figure out if the sensor is good or bad. The O2 sensor figures out if you are running too rich or lean I believe and would thus help gas mileage and performance.

6. Sorry, don't know.

7. Can't help here either.
 

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5. A new O2 sensor would help, if needed. Of course I have been asking myself lately how to figure out if the sensor is good or bad. The O2 sensor figures out if you are running too rich or lean I believe and would thus help gas mileage and performance.
Here's how to tell if you need a new O2 sensor (HO2S):

  • Perform a visual inspection of the sensor.
    ( ALL of these can destroy the sensor; if the problem is not repaired, the new sensor will also be damaged.)
    1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust.
    2. If the sensor tip has a black/sooty deposit, this may indicate a rich fuel mixture.
    3. If the sensor tip has a white gritty deposit, this may indicate an internal anti-freeze leak.
    4. If the sensor tip has a brown deposit, this could indicate oil consumption.
  • Reinstall the sensor.
  • Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S). Measure resistance between PWR and GND (heater) terminals of the sensor.
  • With the engine hot-to-warm, the resistance should be 5-30 ohms.
  • At room temperature, the resistance should be 2-5 ohms.
If these readings are within specification, the sensor's heater element is okay.

From the Chilton Ford Escort/Tracer 1991-99 Repair Manual

Hope this helps...
 

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Hey James. I need to replace my water pump too and I always look for something better but nope nothing out there so far for our scorts and that shouldn't be a surprise. There's always electric water pumps. I read in a few mags that some road race and drag 4 cylinder cars have them but never saw the brand they used . As for your A/C let pro at least take out the refrigerant if you plan on removing it yourself. I don't know if you'll "feel" any gains either from removing the weight or taking away the load it puts on the engine unless you weigh , drag and dyno your car then you know for sure. But in the end it's YOUR car, man, do what you think is right for what you want to do with it.Take care man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My car is going to go on a diet real soon, back seats, rear grey interior pieces, carpeting... Anything I don't use, want or need is going bye bye.

I found a 5 pound bracket (yes it was actually 5 pounds) on the backside of the engine that I found does absolutely nothing when I replaced my starter. (well it did keep me from being able to take out my starter when I needed too. I had to rebolt my starter back to my engine, and then unbolt this damn thing...etc)

I took it out, and left it out.

There's 5 lbs I know I (will) have on everybody with an EGT. :D :D

I have another question, did Escorts ever come with NON automatic seat belts? My driver side seatbelt seems to work about 10% of the time I get in and out of my car...

Is there a way to take out the motor and mount a seatbelt thing on the B pillar, or would it just be worth my time to go get a new motor and clean the button contacts on my door? :?
 

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How about disconnecting the seatbelt motor when the seatbelt is all the way back. Maybe it might stay locked that way so no need adding a mount to the b pillar. You said it works 10% of the time right, maybe yank em both and get those racing harnesses and bolt them to the floor. Thats an idea huh. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah I thought about racing harnesses, but since this is a daily driver with basically the stock hp and really no performance upgrades (besides intake) There really is no need for em.

What a pain in the ass those would be getting in and out of my car like I do sometimes. :lol:
 

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Ahhhh, I see what you mean about racing harness not being practical for daily driving, my bad. I saw the pic of the turbo you have and read the Jenny Craig plan for the scort and figured you have some serious plans for it hence(<that makes me sound smart huh :D ) the safety harness alternative. Your right tho, not practical(yet?) and wont look good with our stock seats. Good luck on the turbo install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yet is a good word to keep in mind there. You're pretty much right. :wink:

This will be a street legal straight line performer until I'm satisfied*... (looking for 11s or 12s eventually)

When that's done I'll tone it down with low boost and get some nice adjustable suspension products to make it a great cornering car. Then I might be able to compete in AutoX's and maybe place and win some cash money.

[/plans for distant future if I don't wreck the damn car in the process of driving it everyday]

*Think that will ever happen? LOL
 

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James92Scort said:
I have another question, did Escorts ever come with NON automatic seat belts? My driver side seatbelt seems to work about 10% of the time I get in and out of my car...quote]

The EGT... not that i know of. but the canadain protege's have the passive B pillar belts. and the USDM protege dx. if you want you could get one of those and make it fit. :dontknow:
 

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The Escorts sold in Canada had the passive restraints. The active restraints were federal law because the Escorts did not come with an air bag. When Ford finally installed an airbag, they did not want to invest the money to change everything to go back to the passive restraints, so the active restraints.

If you remove the mouse belts, as I call them, you might get into problems if you have safty inspections. Odds are you wont, but some states are terrible about stuff like that. Just a different point of view.


Tom
 
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