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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
92 Escort LX 1.9...
So I'm driving on Merrick Road in Long Island the other night...and didn't see a 40 pound trailer hitch ball thingie in the middle of the road. Whacked it at about 30 mph putting a HUGE gaping hole in my oil pan....oil spraying everywhere...smoke...BAD sight.
I get an oil pan for 35 bucks from a junkyand and did NOT realize that the entire enigne and/or exhaust has to come out to replace this damned thing until I was under the car. Are they f*ckin serious??? Has ANYONE ever attempted to do this? It's rediculous. Who designs an oil pan like that??? Is there an EASIER method to this? And what size is that damned exhaust manifold bolt. I tried a 14mm..too small, tried a 9/16ths, too small. Is it a 15mm? (The only one I DONT have). Since I don't have a cherry picker, unbolting the entire exhaust is where I have ended up after 2 days worth of frustration and stripping every bolt under the hood trying to get this oil pan in. PLEASE tell me I'm not high here when I say that this is the most frustrating thing on the planet. I USED to think the heater core was insane but at least with that, once I got to it, it was cake. This seems like one disaster after another with this oil pan.
I miss my Kia Sportage Convertible (with the broken gas tank door release)...
-Pete
 

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ummm... all of the oilpans I've worked on wrap over something so they usually require a ton more work than just bolt-on/bolt-off... I assumed it was a precaution so people don't forget they haven't finished and drive their cars off.
 

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I have some good words for you, but I wish I'd seen this thread sooner.

1. The Kia Sportage is junk. My wife's sister had one. It's gone already. Don't ever wish you had one of those.
2. Years ago, the piece of metal between the oil pan and exhaust on my 91 LX broke off. I've never actually needed it obviously. Do yourself a favour and grind it off - then, the oil pan should just drop out, if my visual image is correct. Then your job is a piece of cake. Sounds like this advice is coming a little too late though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
um...

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing here man. The piece of metal that I'm referring to is the exhaust. I can't just grind that out. LOL. It WOULD make the job 100 times easier though. LOL. I think the piece of metal you are referring to is the little plate coming off the exhaust that sorta holds up the oil pan. It looks like theres a little notch on the oil pan that it sorta rests on. Problem is, I don't have a grinder. So it looks like it's back to taking out the entire exhaust. :-(
-Pete

PS- The Sportage has 60k miles on it and (knock on wood) has never failed me yet. The gas tank door release is covered by Kia's warranty, I'm just too lazy to bring it in to get fixed. So really, other than routine maintinence (oil changes and brakes), the car has NEVER costed me a dime. I know that MOST of them are junk, I just lucked out with that one, I suppose. Most of those foriegn cars are "throw away" cars.
So far, I have replaced transmission bearings (1k), a radiator (200), frozen wheel caliper (75), clutch (300) , struts (500), rear derfroster switch (15) and now an oil pan (35) in my 137k mile Scort which I have had since it rolled off the showroom floor. I guess I miss my old Slant 6 225 Dodge Dart. (It was driven over a curb and into a brick wall by my ex girlfriend- We drove it home from the scene that night). They do NOT make cars like that any more...lol.
 

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i believe it is easire than you make it seem... i think im in the same boat as alot of the other guys here when i say this it *should* drop out the bottom. the ONLY thing i could think of that would keep that from happening is if the tranny is in the way of a couple bolts.

there are 2 things you need to remove prior to the dropping of the oil pan... the exhaust (14mm... get some spray lube on it im sure it just has rust buildup use a 6pt not 12 or you will be even more fubared... if your 14mm is a 12pt go buy a 6pt.

then the cross brace and thats 2 14mm nuts and 2 14mm bolts.

you will get it be patient...

this is not nearly as bad as my friend who needed a head gasket... went and got some new head bolts finally got it all on after nearly one whole day of working on it only for the car to not start... come to find out the moron at the parts store gave him 1.9 bolts and it didnt pull the head tight they are longer so they bottomed out... well he just reused his threw it back together no compression messed with timing got some.... finally got it to start drove down the street and a cam seezed breaking the cam gear clean off so i gave him the head off my old motor he put it on and after a week of headach he locked his keys in his car with it running (just after he got it running) and his fan doesnt work so he went into panic mode and started aggressivly hitting his rear quarter pannel football style trying to flip the fuel cutout... to no avail he ended up having to break a window after demolishing his quarter pannel...

that was bad :)
 

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I replaced my oil pan gasket in a few hours, but I had plenty of access to the exhaust because I had no front end and all the plastic cowling was off :wink:

The way I did it:
~Unbolt the little bracket that holds the down pipe to the oil pan
~Unbolt the 2 9/16" bolts that secure the downpipe flange to the manifold flange and gently lower the exhaust
~Go to town on the dozen or so 10mm oil pan bolts
~Reverse for installation

Just a note, put a new oil pan gasket in now. You have a 92 so it may be coming due. For what they cost it will save you the effort of going throught this ordeal again later.

Matt 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
um....

Opps...I cleaned the hell out of the old gasket, and reused it. It fit perfectly back and did not look warped or at all bad. I also cleaned the hell out of the bottom of the engine where the oil pan bolts in. There was years of caked up oil down there. The old oil pan itself was spotless and totally clean. This being the result of being rediculously anal about 2500 mile oil changes.
I just got finished now with it. Actually once I got the exhaust out of the way, it was quite painless. I ran the car for about 30 mins and voilla! No leaks. (YET). We shall see. I'm going to change the oil next weekend just to get any dust or residual crap out of it.
Thanks again guys for all your help!
-Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
speaking of forkers...

Me and my girlfriend went to see "Meet The Fockers" last night....HILARIOUS. Dustin Hoffman STOLE that movie. Go see it...it totally made my weekend.

-Pete
 

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OMG i thought i was theo nly one one who did that... except i was 40 miles out in the woods and seazed up my head.. good thing the 1.9 bottom end was strong. i was going to fab a skid plate out of aluminum under there,,, then idecided not too,,, then i saw your post... now im oging out side to finish it.
 

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That sounds like a pretty crappy thing to have happen! Nice to hear that it's all fixed up though! Matt.... right now you coulda done it much easier - the front end is all in pieces anyways, and I doubt if you even have the exhaust on yet!
 

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96EscortLX said:
Matt.... right now you coulda done it much easier - the front end is all in pieces anyways, and I doubt if you even have the exhaust on yet!
I mentioned that :p

And yes the exhaust is on, and always was on. I needed my 2ft breaker bar to loosen the exhaust flange bolts though 8O

Matt 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
UPDATE!!!

Ok...It's leaking about a drop every hour or so. Is there a specific torque for that oil pan, or is just whacking the bolts on as tight as you can the way you do it? Cause I couldn't find my book, so I torqued them down with a ratchet pretty tight.
OK...OK...I shoulda changed the gasket...lol. Tomorrow I'll hit up the Autozone and pay the 16 bucks for it.
-Pete
 

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I believe that there are very specifuic settings - not 100% sure here though. do u have a haynes, it'll tell you.
 

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15 to 22 ft*lbs is what it specs out in Haynes. I just mildly tightened mine with a 1/4" drive ratchet as my lowest torque setting was 25 ft*lbs. Did you use any silicone sealant on the seams of the block? There's a seam on the timing belt side of the engine between the block and the oil pump, as well as on the rear between the block and the rear seal housing that needs RTV silionce sealant applied to it to properly seal. Also, did you follow the torque sequence?

Matt 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OH...

Uh oh...
I tightened the hell out of all 10 bolts with a 3/8ths ratchet. Guess I'll buy a torque wrench and some sealant when I buy the gasket tomorrow. I hope it will be ok driving to work tomorrow.

-Pete
 
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