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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know if the Powerstop or power performance rotors are any good at stopping you in shorter distances? I like the look of them and i might put them on my car anyway, but i wanna know if they suck before i do.

Red 92 EGT
 

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I highly doubt you will actually notice a difference just from rotors. They are mostly for looks unless you need the cooling properties for racing purposes, then they should reduce fade a bit I would think.
 

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a rotor does not make a difference in the braking distance. a rotor is simply a big heat sink in a useable format. braking power comes from the ammount of pressure applied to a braking surface and how large that pressure area is.

to make this simple, you will need to move up to a multi pot( piston) caliper to get increased stopping power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What do you mean the rotor has nothing to do with braking power? it´s got plenty to do with it... The cooler you keep everything, including the rotor, the better the brakes clamp down and don´t fade or warp the rotors.

Red 92 EGT
 

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.. rotor size has NOTHING to do with BRAKING POWER A larger rotor may give you longevity endurance in that rotor but that is it. What pads you use for a specific purpose , and the ammount of force a caliper can apply over a given area are the factors that make or brake you stopping. IF size mattered then by your logic a 17" rotor with a standard Nissin escort caliper would work better then my 4 Pot calipers with HT-10 pads & 13" rotor.. And by your logic that would be better then a 12" CF rotor a CF/organic pads on 6 pot calipers from WRC setups

THen again we see your logic is wrong. Heat only matters if you choose the wrong product for the job , ( pads and brake fluid ) .
 

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All I know is I put DBA slotted and crossdrilleds on the front of the scort and put on EBC "GreenStuff" pads and I have video footage of my car nose diving so hard during braking you can start to see light from under the rear tires.

its INCREDIBLE, besides brakes are safety and safety is the no. 1 upgrade for anyreason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PPC...i mentioned nothing about those rotors being bigger than stock EGT rotors, my arguement is that being crossdrilled and slotted, there´s the possibility that they dissapate heat faster, there by keeping the brakes and rotors cooler, hence, better braking power over a longer period of time. I don´t want larger rotors because one, i can´t afford to get larger wheels to fit them under and i don´t want to go through the headache of trying to find larger wheels. and two, i just bought new tires 2 months ago.

In some cases though, size does matter...if you put Escort size rotors and calipers on say a Ford Mustang Cobra R, you´d probably burn the hell out of the pads and warp the rotors within 2 minutes.
 

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let me comment that braided brake likes would help braking performance.

Let me also add that crossdrilled or slotted are basically pointless for street use. Even in autocross you don´t get the pads hot enough to need them. in fact you have to be carefull because a road race type pad will not get warm enough.

your best bet is to get a good quality rotor that will not warp as easily as well as some good pads. Hawk-I and porterfield or some of the more common autocross brands. Rotor size as far as I understand only relates to a larger area to grip.

and lets not forget about tires.... best brakes in the world don´t matter if the tires will not grip.

It still amazes me how many people overlook tires.

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[ Edited by egtdude On Date 10-05-2002 ]
 

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What it comes down to is the right parts for the job, a set of new rotors will work better then used rotors, be it becuse they are better at heat dissapation or the fact that 100% is hitting a flat smooth surface not an abused and scored surface.. I replace my rotors ( these are 2 pc rotors, so I need only unbolt from the hat and replace the disc part ) every year, heat soak stones gettinginto the drilled holes, slots loosing their cleaning edge and the odd burned patch from drifting tend to reduce the quality of braking by 2% or so..

braided lines are great, I make them here using a teflon cored stainless hose the added friction reduction in the lines and the stiffer line body help to transmit more power to the Pot .. however upgrading to a multi pot caliper is going to be the most effective..

for an economy rotor / pad combonation I like either the KVR or powerslot/PBR combination.. from Can. or Aus. respectivly.
 

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i am soon in need of rotors as well, i was thinking of spending the money and getting cross drilled rotors. i have heard pro´s and con´s from all of you, and it seems you guys seem to all have different ideas on which is best. got me a bit confused. i just want to be able to stop as fast as possible on the street since i do drive on back roads with alot of tight turns way too fast. what would you say would be the best rotor pad combo for me. was looking at kvr brake parts, and powerstop rotors. was wandering if any of these are good choices, or any others that might be good. seems you guy´s have different views of whats good, making it hard to make a good decision on what kind to buy, i just want to get the best for my money. i don´t autocross, but sometimes drive like it.
 

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Just my two cents about larger rotors. They have two advantages, one there is more material to dissapate heat. though probably not enough to be noticeable. two and most important by using a larger rotor your brake system gains a mechanical advantage in slowing the wheel. to illustrate this point, the next time your have the car in the air spin a tire by hand then stop it by pressing on the side of the tire. repeat only this time stop the tire by pressing close to the center of the wheel. results: easier to stop the further out you go. this is why larger rotors can increase the effectiveness of a brake system without changing the pressure applied.
 

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you can´t apply that test as the object your using ( your finger or hand is not in a static position and it´s on two different surfaces ( rubber and metal) the only way to increase REAL stopping distance is to use more pots on a larger pad. only the force applied to a surface will generate the resistance requires.. with your test your forggeting a few things the moment torque on the pad surface increases as you move farther from the center of the object and centripital force applied to that moment force. meaning , the farther out you are from your center of rotation the faster it moves this converts into more power being required to create the force needed to stop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok you guys are straying way off the subject. I simply asked if by experience anyone can say if those rotors are any better than stock EGT rotors. or should i just get them for the hell of it? Thanks, if you stay on the subject
 

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me too, i also was wandering if you guys would stay on the subject cause i´m wandering the same thing, are they worth the money or is it best to just stay with a good stock rotor. you guys seem to know what your talking about and your imput would be great. and what brands work the best
 

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I know that I replaced the Rotors, Calipers and Pads on all four corners of my EGT and now I have to find SS Brake lines. I know that there is an amount of flex in the stock Rubber Brake hoses on the EGT that can get worse over time (say a ´94 or older), so to help increase braking performance by maintaining even braking pressure, I want to get SS Brake lines....

MrVermin

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I am thrilled with my KVR pads, KVR cross-drilled, cad-plated rotors, and TechnaFit lines. The pedal pressure required is greatly reduced and the cold and/or wet performance is everything that I had hoped it would be. In my opinion, many of us don´t exceed the performance of a properly prepared stock system. A big brake kit, if well-designed, would improve braking performance, but, for me, the more tame route is the way to go.

There are many, many options and brands available that, would work just as well as what I chose, but through my research, the KVR/TechnaFit option got the nod. For actual comparison, I can only report that they perform better than both my stock pads, when hot, and my Axxis Metal Masters, when cold (and/or wet). Pedal firmness is 100% improved with the lines. Now, I do have one caveat, as the rotors and lines I took off had 265,000 miles and the pads had 120,000+ miles. So, rather like installing any new set of plugs versus your old worn out plugs, there will always be a difference.

Concerning cross-drilled rotors, I decided on c/d for water evacuation, as opposed to improved cooling. In Louisiana, we do drive in our share of showers and puddles, and I absolutely hate that uneasy, no brakes feel on the first application. As I mentioned before, I don´t think extra cooling is that big an issue for me, as is evidenced by the stock, unturned, true rotors.

Have fun making the decision, whatever you decided to do.

Marcus
what´s up with the miata, not an escort even if it does have a mazda motor.
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[ Edited by stripedmx5 On Date 10-10-2002 ]
 

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dont forget that braided lines are for RACE ONLY, you need flexible lines for the street. what happens per-say you hit a pot hole heavy on the pedal, can you say lock-up/

a/m rotors can somtimes be better than a/zone type rotors as far as the metologies concerned, these can´t be cut anyway. once bad throw away.

oh and disc brakes work better hot, for all you LX fans
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[ Edited by thefirstblusuki On Date 10-10-2002 ]
 

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i was looking at the kvr pads and cross drilled rotors, i heard alot of good things about them, the only thing i am not sure of is are they able to be ground down if they start wearing groove or are they throw away when worn to bad, they kinda cost alot more that stock rotors and i want them to last if they cost that much
 
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