I know alot of you already have or are in the process of going turbo so i was wondering if anyone could tell me what all you need to make the turbo work. I really want to do it so mabye i can compete with my friends 2002 Mustang gt.
This was a response I put up in one of my other posts, hope it helps:
"Hey HoleShot, this is my story, hope it helps.
The GTX manifold for the 1.8L is made to fit the IHI (Warner-Ishi) RH5B VJ-20 turbo. I´m sure a good machinist could make a new flange and make it fit any turbo you decide to go with. (if you do, Garrett turbo´s use pipe fittings and standard fitments, so it makes life easy)
Okay, so my over all aim is a show car/performance car on a budget. Here I am with an EGT. I paid $3932 for a 93´ EGT with 44k miles on it. I thought it would be an awesome machine after modifying it, and cheaper then a Civic Si like I wanted.
I did all my other mods (I´ll actually post up on here with everything I´ve done so you can just look at that post).
Okay, time to go turbo...I got the Turbo, manifold and downpipe for $477. I really thought I could manage to run just the turbo on the car with 5 or 6lbs of boost and that would be my only expense.
Okay well I learned that intercooling was something that I really shouldn´t go without, so I bought an 88´ Chrysler Conquest TSi intercooler (Mitsu Starion, same thing) for $200 (shipped and all).
Okay, needed a Blow Off Valve too...so I decided to go expensive and spent $130 and bought a TurboXs Type H-RFL. The thing is AWESOME. Actually scared off a 300Z Twin Turbo with it.
My IC piping is a mock up of what I´m going to have made...I´m $90 in the whole with crush bent piping. I used Spa hosing for IC hosing. spent like 5 bucks on hose, 20 on clamps. I had to fab an intake hose...its radiator hose a friend had around, it goes to the OEM airbox.
I bought a Vortech FMU 12:1 for $104, I personally dont think its working at all, but I dont have a fuel pressure gauge to tell for sure.
I fab´d 5 T-fittings for vacuum lines, $9 a piece from Home Depot (plus they kicked me out because "We dont have automotive parts...so take your carburator and leave."...Had my turbo with me to match the oil return. Speaking of, I used a barbed fitting and a washer and a nut and a whole lot of JB Weld for my oil pan tap for the oil return. (see a pic in my yahoo briefcase)
Also at Home Depot I used barbed fittings for my coolant tap and return. I bought high temp faucet hose for coolant (its clear so we could see if coolant was really going through it)
You´ll need the banjo fitting for oil, and a banjo bolt 10mmx1.5 with O-rings for tapping into the oil gally.
I recommend getting a new exhaust manifold gasket...plus makes things easy.
When you drop the oil pan you´ll need the Oil Pan Seal kit...the Black silicon stuff they give you in the kit is crap...get this silicon brand named "The Right Stuff" ...it really is, the right stuff. You will probably want to get one step colder spark plugs. Autolite makes a platinum that´s colder.
Save yourself a headache, get a gauge pod with a boost gauge and air/fuel mixture gauge. EGT too if you can afford it.
Okay, so I did all that and right now I can´t run any boost. I was trying to use my stock fuel system and the factory wastegate for the turbo was set at 8psi, and my fuel system couldn´t support it. I rigged an awesome way to shim down the boost (refer to my pics). It worked, better then most would believe. However, it was hard to build it right...had to do a complete R&R on the turbo set up 5x now. If you want the waste gate fab´d like we did it, my friend Rob charges $20 bucks to do it out here now.
I have a problem with loosing boost at 3.8k-4.5k rpms. Somewhere I´m loosing boost, I think its a vac leak on the pressure side of the turbo, or my BOV...still trouble shooting.
For the fuel system:
pump (do it first), then fuel computer, then injectors.
I´ve chosen to follow most of the mentors on here and go with 91 RX7 non turbo 460cc injectors, Walbro 255L/H pump, and Apex´i S-AFC piggyback computer. AFC is $300, picked up the injectors for $50.01, and the pump will be like $106.
Okay, I will within the next few months, and I recommend you get some sort of ignition timing control. MSD makes the MSD 6BTM (boost timing master). Its list price is $916, but you can get it through Summitt for $5XX. You´ll probably want to opt for bigger wires, and a new coil too.
With all that though, you can tune your scort to run safely (I PRAY!...still working on it myself). Orlando has had luck with running 10psi. I´m aiming for 14psi on 115octane (or 100LL AvGas), with a whole lot of retard on the timing for a couple passes at the track. "
I´m in the process of putting together a "how-to."
Right now, I´ve spent about $1400. That includes manifold, downpipe, turbo, intercooler, IC pipe, hoses, clamps, FMU, more clamps, banjo bolts...more clamps, food and beer, gauges, gauge pod, pipe fittings, barbed fittings, tape, JB Weld, sealant, oil, and one trip to the track for two of us to race.
Blade...I think I love you. you´re my hero, come to Indiana so i can bow at your sandals...well shoes, it´s cold up here. Good luck at getting it up and running. Where exactly are you getting 100 octane? Here in Indiana all i can find is 93 Octane. and usually out in those states like california and arizona they can´t even get more than 87. unless you have a super fuel additive...do ya??
haha, Thanks James. The support is welcomed fully. I was actually hoping to burn through an O2 sensor at the track by running 100LL (100 Low Lead Aviation Gas) I go to Embry Riddle Aeronautical Univ. My school is all aviation based, and because I have the code to the airport I can get AvGas for free