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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Your 1GEN Ford Escort (Turbo)

If you are going to turbo your 1GEN ford escort this is the list of parts and information that you will need to do just that.

Steps one: you need to decide if you are going to have the money and time

This will take a lot of time and money you can't cut corners on this anywhere. After you decide what your going to do don't just start ripping your car a part (trust me that is what I did) it will sit there for a year before you even get to start it.

Step two: getting all the parts your going to need

Let start out with what turbo you are going to use, are you going to add a IHI or a T3? After you have figured out what one your going to use your good to go.

The xr4ti murker turbo is the best, if you go with a T3. They make them water and oil cooled, I love that fact. They last a long time, just the right size for the escort and they are cheap, I love cheap. But there is a down side to the T3. That is you need an RS manifold and the cost is a lot no matter where you get it, but it so worth the money I think.

If you go with the IHI they're cheap, small, quiet, and every body has one.

Now if you have a oil cooled turbo you will need to set up the lines. There are many sites that you can get oil feed line kits. This should not be that big of a deal. There will be links to everything that I have for you all

You will need to start some where. After the turbo, I started with the ignition system. I love MSD always have and always will. If you what to do this the right way you should to. I used the 6BTM (P/N 6462) and also used a blaster TFI coil (P/N 8227). Don't for get about the wires, I went with the 8.5mm super conductor wires. They just make them to fit a V-8 so you can split the cost with a friend. Then I went to the fuel system. I started out with the fuel pump booster (P/N 2350) and then added 33bls injectors. What's really nice about the 6BTM and the fuel booster is they are controlled by the boost that the turbo makes. I found that a new fuel pump was not needed with the combination that I made.

Now that we have fuel and the ignition and turbo out of the way you can start on the piping and Blow off Valve (BOV). I went to Greddy for a universal intercooler piping kit. It has everything that is needed like clamps, hoses and what not but no intercooler. You can get one off e-bay cheap. On to blow off valves. Here one can get lost very quickly, there are so many different types. Here is where your "rice genes" might what to take over. Take your time in picking one out. I went with the HKS SSQ but what you go with will be fine if you take your time and find one that you like. Now you need to think about how you're going to run the piping. For example, are you going to run it VAM=Turbo=intercooler=BOV=throttle body or Turbo=Intercooler=BOV=VAM=throttle body? I have mine set up the last way, it works for me. The reason I have mine set up this way is, when the BOV opens it doesn't flood out the car.

You're not done, yet you still need to get an intercooler. I got lucky, I got a ford prop intercooler off of ERDT. They say that the bigger you can get the better, but don't kill your self on cash here, there is still more. You need a waste gate. I got 5lbs gate, it is just the right size to have. You will also need to get a boost controller, I got mine off of e-bay. Now for gauges, you will need at least a boost, O2, and oil pressure gauges.

So you're now down to the last bit. All you're going to need to tune up the car with is plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil filter, water pump, oil pump, and timing belt. You may not need the oil pump or the water pump but since you're replacing the timing belt, take the time to do it. It's just cheap insurance for your motor.

Now after you have every thing you are going to set up your turbo, you need to set up vacuum lines. Lucky you if you're reading this! I found this great little item form golden eagle manufacturing. It's called a vacuum manifold, this is a great item for everything like the fuel booster and the 6BTM and the boost gauge, get one, trust me on this.

Step three: pre-fitting

Before you start ripping in to your scort set the boost controller to 0psi, the 5lbs waste gate will be fine to start out on. Wash your motor before you start. Get that thing nice and clean, it will make every thing better when your under there.

Step four: fitting

So you now have everything to turbo your scort. All you need to know is how to hook it all up. Well, this is where all the time is going to be spent. Start by ripping out the radiator, then put in the manifold (if you got the RS manifold you will need a grinder. There is an alternator bracket the will need to be shaved down) then the turbo, then the radiator, sounds like fun... it's not. Take your time, make sure you have a torque wrench handy, then hook up all your oil and water lines. Mount the fan, then the intercooler. Run the piping, then pull the piping off and paint it, put it back on. Put in the MSD stuff in and the gauges and don't forget the injectors. Check and recheck every thing. Then you can start the car. Do not floor the gas pedal let it run for a few minutes. Then check for leaks. Run the car up and down the block a few times, check it for leaks.

Step five: brake in

Now your car is turbo! You will need to brake it in, don't run the car hard for at least 100mi at 5lbs then you can go up if want to. When you go up go by the pound and run the car for a least 50mi at a time.

link:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merch ... y_Code=OIL

http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/274558/5
 

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robynhoods said:
Then I went to the fuel system. I started out with the fuel pump booster (P/N 2350) and then added 33bls injectors. What's really nice about the 6BTM and the fuel booster is they are controlled by the boost that the turbo makes. I found that a new fuel pump was not needed with the combination that I made.
What is controlling the larger injectors? What keeps you from runnning too rich at idle? Do you still have the stock computer and VAM? Usally the First gen guy's run the 2.3 computer/VAM and 35lb injectors.
I see you have a fuel pump booster, but that will just speed up the pump when the boost comes on, but not make the 33lb injectors run like stock one's when not in boost?
Is your car done? Do you have any pic's of it with the turbo installed? What kind of power, 1/4 miles times?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
for the injectors i did nothing the car idles just fine with stock fmu. i do still have a stock computer and mav. The fuel booster dose make the pump spin faster at “boost” that is why I don’t go rich at idle. The car running but with no exhaust right now I will try and get pic I don’t have a didi cam give me a week + I’m redoing the piping right now. when i have had the car on the road my buddy cant keep up with me and he drive a zx2. this one time i was giving my mom a ride that the turbo spike and went to 15lbs and it did not go lean at all it was cool
 

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robynhoods said:
for the injectors i did nothing the car idles just fine with stock fmu. i do still have a stock computer and mav. The fuel booster dose make the pump spin faster at "boost" that is why I don't go rich at idle. The car running but with no exhaust right now I will try and get pic I don't have a didi cam give me a week + I'm redoing the piping right now. when i have had the car on the road my buddy cant keep up with me and he drive a zx2. this one time i was giving my mom a ride that the turbo spike and went to 15lbs and it did not go lean at all it was cool
FMU? You mean stock FPR right?

I can guarantee you your running a lot more fuel than needed. Since you still have the stock computer and VAM, the computer "thinks" you have 15 lb injectors, so it run's what ever pulse width is needed to supply the required fuel for a injector that flows 15lbs. But since 33 are in there, your running about twice as much fuel.
I have a feeling that "boost a pump" is'nt makeing that much of a differance. Even if you double the speed of the fuel pump, the FPR will still regulate the pressure at 40psi anyways, unless your runnning a FMU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i do mean stock fpr not fmu my bad

i could be run a lot more fuel than needed but that is not change the idle and the car runns good al so i dont have any "lag" in the motor.

let me get my fuel Presser guage working and i will test it to see what it dose

marclar feel free to use this for any thing you need just let every body know who wote it plz

im also gettting a didicam for a day i will post pic of what the car looks like right now, Remember im redoing the piping, i will have video soon give me a week
 
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