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Turbo Info, ATX and boost, MTX.

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#1 ·
Major Sections

section 1 Escort Turbo Information
section 2 Automatic Transmitions and BOOST
section 3 MTX Diagnostics and shift points
Section 4 General FAQ/Links
sectoin 5 engine noise, auto seatbelts

Escort Turbo Information (1.9/2.0 SPI -1.8 isnt much different and alot of the stuff is the same.)
Note: There is alot of info that i compiled in here that is not turbo related driectly, but can be. there are 24 pages so far and 50,407 characters of text in here, so be patient and read thuroughly.

PLEASE READ INFO THUROUGHLY BEFOR DOING ANYTHING TO YOUR CAR. REMEMBER I ACCEPT NO LIABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES YOU DO.

**DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT FUEL MANAGMENT**

**DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT TIMING MANAGMENT**

**DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT READING THIS SECTION AND ASKING THUROUGH QUESTIONS**

** DO NOT PUT A TURBO ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT SOME SORT OF OIL RESTRICTION**

** DO NOT PUT A TURBO ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT A GOOD OIL DRAIN**

SECTIONS
-How much boost can a stock 1.9/SPI take?
-What order to turbo parts go??
-Which mustang FPR fits 1.9 fuel rail?
-Is the 1.9/spi interferance?
-Coil/wire/edis discusision
-+20 hp chip?
-Port and polish termonology
-SPI intake porting, round 1,2, and 3
-Hypereutectic or Cast pistons?
-Can the egr valve be removed?
-Cleaning your MAF
-Spark Plug Heat Range Exp.

-Random info

-PSI to BAR conversion
-Calculating CID
-Calculating CFM
-injector flow rate lookup chart
-zetec turbo info
-What is A/R?
-Intercooler discussion
-NPT, BSP BSPT, 4AN
-THE ULTIMATE MAF CHART
-Why 12:1fmu? fuel/boost
-1.9 OR SPI MAF

-Designing your turbo setup
-Oil feed/return
-High/Low comp?(1.9/spi hybrid)
-manifold
-Turbocharger Fundamentals
-Escort RS manifold Gasket - found an alternative! (PICS)
-What turbo has what boost?
-What cars have what turbo?
-Fuel systems
-FMU INSTALATION
-BOV and Wastegates
-Top end Boost Dropoff
-MBC
-Blow/Draw thru
-PCV
-Turbo Timer
-Terms
-other escort forums

------------------------------------------------------------------------
How much boost can a 1.9/SPI take?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
for some reason, alot of people seam to think that 5-7psi is the MAX the engine can handle...

contrary to common beliefe, the engine its self can handle 15-17 psi properly managed with prefect timing and fuel managment.

i think where people get mixed up and confused is:

-With a FMU, the stock fuel system is only "safe" till 5-7psi
-After about 2-3psi, the computer cant deal with timing.
-With no standalone EMS, your AFR's will be allover the place causing catistrophic engine failure.

The engine its self can handle anywhere from 0-20psi, but it depends on how you manage it.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
what order to turbo parts go?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
which mustang fpr fits 1.9 fuel rail
------------------------------------------------------------------------
the 88-93 5.0L.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
is the 1.9/spi interferance?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
thx to waldoR and that canadian guy highanddry

Q) I have a 1996 Escort LX
1.9 lt SEFI(is what it says on the valve cover)
Is that engine an none interference engine, or an interference engine?
reason why I want to know is that the timing belt broke while
it was idling and I'm hoping the valve did not get bent.
my brother said if the engine in none interference it's likely
they did not get bent.

A) Your brother is correct.

It's a non-interference engine. The likelihood of valve damage is minimal. However, any time something like your timing belt breaks with your engine spinning at 2000 rpm, there is a possibility of incidental damage to other components, particularly at the front of the engine where the shredded belt is flying around.

How-To: timing belt replacement
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=24158

thx to 94scortlx

------------------------------------------------------------------------
coil/edis discusision
------------------------------------------------------------------------
the pcm.. powertrain control modual controsl the engine and atx shift points. there are only 3 wires to the coil.. power, bank A(coil tower 1 and 4) and bank B (coil tower 2 and 3) if one of the coil pairs isnt firing, its not getting a signal to. the firing order is 1342... the coil pack fires bank A on 1, which also fires #4 then fires bank B for 3 which also fires coil for #2. it sparks 2 cyl per "ign event" ...
just because the wires "look good" means next to nothing, your environment, conditons, weather, drivability all affect the status of the wiring... corrosion, vibrations, water penetration, bad manufacturing, random chances of failure.... list goes on.

try getting 2 wires and jump the pcm to the each coil wires and see if that works. also try pulling the plugs off and putting them back on back and forth a few...20 times. break any nasty-anti-conductive-crap off the contac points

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ruth+coils

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+20HP chip?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
thx to ~Ninja and pony

Q) I'm sure everybody has seen these on ebay for 99 cent or so. I have to ask, has anybody used them? If so, does it do anything? Is there any side effects?

I don't believe they would work with compromising other things under the hood. I doon't care about 1/2mpg, hell I get 42 on the highway. But if its something prone to overheated, or burning up any electronics, I'd be a little upset.

Figured its better to find out here

A) if it was really that cheap and effective, dont you think that it would be on the car from the factory? or something like it anyways.

yeah theyre crap. theyre basically a resistor inline with the intake air temp sensor to try and trick the ecm to think the air is colder and advance the timing...

and advanced timing without knock-resistant fuel can be bad.. hello broken pistons and snapped rods.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Port & Polish Termonlogy
------------------------------------------------------------------------
thx to GregF422

Q) Ok, just to clear up some confusion, what exactly do the different term mean when it comes to head work. What do they do, where are they done, which ones are most worth it, etc.
I've heard terms like Porting, Polishing, Pocketing, Matching, Blueprinting, and others i don't remember.

A)
GregF422 said:
terms like Porting,
Polishing,
Pocketing,
Matching,
Blueprinting
makine the overall intake port bigger in the head

removing most or all of the casting roughness making a smooth sufrace.

some heads use pockets to create vortexes and such for flow characteristics

matching ports refers to making the intake manifold, throtlebldy, and head ports all match to the biggest size... ie, the stock spi IMRC input port is slightly smaller than the intake manifold runner.. they match the diameters of the two ports to the biggest diameter.

the roughnessin the head is there for a reason believe it or not. its for fuel atomization due to the short distance the injector is from the chamber of mega doom. if it flows in all smoothlike it wont atomize well, but if its all random and bumpy, itll do well.

i would do a basic portmatching and clean up the big divits and obvious restrictions. also use some steel wull on the chamber of doom.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPI intake porting.. round 1, 2, and 3.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
intake porting round 1, 2, and 3..

keep in mind its totaly and completely pointless to port one part of the intake without doing the rest.

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ke+porting

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ke+porting

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ke+porting

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Hypereutectic or Cast pistons?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=24088

------------------------------------------------------------------------
can the egr valve be removed?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
before you read this:

keep in mind that the egr valve is NOT OPEN at WOT OR IDLE in ANY CAR of THE WORLD.. if it is, you have SERIOUS PROBLEMS

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13951

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Cleaning your MAF
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http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... sc&start=0

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Spark Plug Heat Range
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
thx to DamageINC

It's kind of confusing because a "hot" plug is generally used in a colder, stock-ish engine and a "cold" plug is used in a hotter, higher performance engine. The actual terminology comes from describing the plugs ability to transfer head from it's tip, back to the head.

Spark plugs, hot or cold, generally have an ideal operating temperature close to 700 degrees farenheit, and once they start getting much hotter than their ideal operating temperature, they start to get TOO hot and literally glow. This is where hot plugs become your enemy in boosted applications. A glowing spark plug = INSTANT preignition and shortly thereafter, piston kibble. The reason a colder plug "works" the way it does, aside from electrode material, is that a colder plug's tip is usually shorter, locating itself further from the center of the combustion chamber, and also providing less total heat-transfer path, allowing the heat to be transferred to the cylinder head quicker.

The trick is to find a plug that will operate as close to around 700 degrees F (ideal) as possible. Different engines, boost levels, fuels, tunes, so on, all of these will cause a plug to operate at different temperatures.

The downsides to running a colder plug are usually a loss in fuel mileage as well as a tendancy to foul out (like Jeff mentioned) if they aren't being heated up enough. Not heating a plug up enough leaves a lot of crap/carbon on the tip and eventually requires early replacement.

In short, the reason you run a colder plug is because the heat generated in your boosted cylinder requires a plug that dissipates it's own heat quicker, in order to maintain an ideal operating temperature.

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Random Info
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Stock 1.9 injectors are 15#
Stock 2.0 injectors are 19#
If you use the 1.9 MAF with the 2.0 injectors, you will run rich. Before it was common to use this combo. But as of late, further research has led us to understand that the 1.9 and 2.0 MAF s are actually different. I used the combo for about a year, then I went out and got the 2.0 MAF and it ran a grip better.

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PSI to BAR conversion
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
.25Bar (3.63 psi),
.4Bar (5.80 psi),
.5Bar (7.25 psi),
.6Bar (8.70 psi),
.7Bar (10.15 psi),
.8Bar (11.60psi),
.9Bar (13.05 psi),
1.0Bar (14.50 psi).
1.1Bar (15.95 psi),
1.2Bar (17.40 psi),
1.3Bar (18.85 psi),
1.4Bar (20.30 psi),
1.5Bar (21.75 psi),
1.6Bar (23.20 psi)

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calculateing CID
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
The formula for figuring out the cubic inches of a engine is as follows:

Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 x # of cylinders

For example, we will use the 318 with a standard bore of 3.91". The stroke is 3.31".

3.91 x 3.91=15.2881
15.2881 x 3.31=50.603611
50.603611 x .7854=39.7440760794
39.7440760794 x 8=317.9526086352
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Calculating CFM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
RPM X CID / 3456 = CFM

example:

6500rpm x 60CID (geo) / 3456 = 112.84722222222222 CFM

8500rpm x 93CID (civ- SI) / 3456 = 228.7326388888888 CFM

6500rpm x 122CID (spi) / 3456 = 229.4560185185185185 CFM

8500rpm x 572CID (BB) / 3456 = 1406.82870370370370 CFM

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injector flow rate lookup chart
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthrea ... +flow+rate

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zetec turbo info
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/articles/zetecturbo/

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WHAT IS A/R?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks to "mrbsponge" from honda-tech.com

is the rated volumetric efficiency of a turbos 2 sections, so to speak. imagine if you have a garden hose spraying water out, at a pinwheel......................
with the hose open ended the pinwheel spins okay......

but put a nozzle on it an the pinwheel will spin like mad................

but there is issues, with the nozzle on the end, you lose volume but gain pressure. with the nozzle off you gain volume but lack pressure and cant turn the pinwheel as much..............

real simple, on small displacement motors, a smaller AR is nicer, on larger obviously larger due to exhaust volume.

a larger AR will spool later and provide a higher power band, if you motor is capable of reaching the RPMS it should be used in.
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intercooler discussion
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http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=22035
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=22686
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NPT, BSP BSPT, 4AN etc etc etc....what do they all mean?!?!?!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
thx to "mos" and "Sonny" on honda-tech.com

National Pipe Tapered.
British Standard Pipe.
British Standard Pipe Tapered.
Army-Navy
All just different standards. The *PT fittings just have a threaded end, which is what seals. The AN fittings have a 37 degree conical end which is what makes the seal.

EDIT: If you see a hole, its a female end, if you see the outsides of the threads, its a male end. BPST and NPT are very similar, but they differ in two ways, the angle the threads are cut in are off by 5 degrees, also BPST has rounded thread peaks, while NPT has flat peaks. The O.D. and thread pitch are the same tho.

BSPT is the thread pattern of the oil pressure sender switch that is located on the back side of the block. This is a common source for an oil feed line (using a T) for a turbo.

BSPT is not a common thread pattern in the US, but Honda used this on their block, so that's where all the adapter mess comes in.

NPT is very common in the US and most of the stuff that you buy here that is a brass pipe fitting is an NPT fitting. An NPT fitting is NOT tapered and requires teflon tape/paste for a good seal. Autometer gauges as well as most anything you buy for your car usually is an NPT fitting.

Most people install a BSPT to NPT thread adapter in the hole in the block and start from there. BSPT and NPT have the same thread pattern, but the BSPT hole is tapered. If your engine block is out of the car (like mine), you can just run an NPT tap through that BSPT hole (what I did) and then you have yourself an NPT hole that requires no adapter.

AN style fittings are what are used on steel braided lines. This is the hot ticket because these lines are pretty and they are very durable.

So, a typical turbo car might have something like this:

BSPT hole in the block with a BSPT-to-NPT adapter on it.
NPT-to-AN adapter installed inside the above adapter.

At this point, you basically have a -4 AN "nipple" sticking out your block.

You can run steel braided line up to a T that is on the firewall. The oil pressure sender plugs into one side of the T and then your oil feed line plugs into the other. Of course, it is not quite that simple. Most T's are NPT. So, your T ends up getting filled with adapters.

Confused yet??

--------
ULTIMATE MAF TABLE
--------
Jeffescortlx said:
To select the right sized MAF and Injectors for your motor,
find your HP goal, then select the corresponding MAF. The injector size in the last colum is the sized needed to be mached with the use of 4 injectors.

HP
Supply
- Engine/MAF- #Cyl- Stk lbs - *lbs/4 Cyl
109hp...........1.9.............4..........15...........15lbs
117hp...........2.0 SPI.......4..........16...........16lbs
138hp...........2.0 Zetec....4..........19...........19lbs
174hp...........3.0..............6..........16...........24lbs
203hp.3.8 4.0 (2.5-94-98 )6........19...........28lbs
265hp...........3.0 SHO......6..........24...........36lbs
276hp...........4.6 5.0........8..........19...........38lbs
348hp...........4.6 Cobra....8..........24...........48lbs
400hp.........3.8 SC 94-95..6.........36...........54lbs

* Not all sizes are avalible. If your size is'nt, round up the nearest injector size, fine tuning maybe needed. Do that by either changing the fuel pressure, or by using a fuel controller like AFC.

Must use 12-16 Ohms high impedance saturated injectors.

Note: hp is listed at 85% duty cycle.

Any time the MAF value is changed, you change the amount of hp the computer thinks it's seeing, that changes the ignition timing. With the use of forced Induction ignition timing and detanation need's close attention. Ignition timing will need to be retarted by tuning, or compression ratio lowered for moderate to high boost levals.
--------
WHY 12:1 FMU?
-----

first: the fmu doesnt really do anything till about 2-3 psi.. any fmu period. even at 3 psi, you will be lucky to get a 5psi rise in FP. when i (and many others) used an fmu on our cars, at 8psi it was only at 75-80psi FP on a good day. the 115psi at 7psi is all theoretical and mathmatical.. not reality. check it yourself if you would like.

the MAF and pcm are capable of dealing with about 1-2psi stock on any car reguardlesss of its make. this is mainly why the fmu does nothing thru 3psi.. then after the pcm drops off, the fuel pressure rises to compinsate

second: none of them are actualy the "rate" that they are suposed to be.

third: you will NEVER EVER get up to 115psi for a few reaons..
-first, if you have 115psi line pressure, you obviously need an SFMS,
-second the fmu doesnt work like that

check it out..
ok.. from idle at ~22''Hg, the fuel presure should be arround 30psi
ok.. at WOT or 0''Hg (100kpa) the fuel presure should be arround 40psi

ok.. so for every 2''Hg it uses 1psi of fuel....

ok now that we got that taken care of...

1psi=2"Hg, so that means that 5psi needs as much fuel as 10"Hg and 10psi needs as much fuel as 20"Hg...

if you had 7psi boost and 115 psi FP, and 7psi only needs ~54 psi mathematicaly... your running WAY WAY WAY rich... good bye 02 sensor.

--------------------
Recommended Gauges to get when boosting

Boost Gauge
EGT Gauge
Oil Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge

------------
What is Duty Cycle

Duty Cycle is a percentage of how long an injector stays open in a given time to deliver fuel to the motor. Duty cycles between 80 and 90 percent are considered bad, but tolerable. 90% and higher, and you`re looking at unreliable tuning, unpredictable results, and injector failure.

Decided to make a table showing required air flow for the SPI at a given boost pressue to help others choose the right turbo for their turbo project. Navigation is a bit crappy at the moment but I'll be cleaning that up as time progresses. Also have compressor maps for Garret, Mitsu, KKK, and IHI turbos along with the corresponding flow table needed to read the maps.
http://www.khousehold.net/Forced_Induction/Welcome_to_the_SPI_flow_Table.htm

Check this sight for more random turbo info. Its geared toward Hondas but most FI is the same.
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html

Thanks to EvoScort for this:
Check this sight out. It has nothing to do with FI but there is A LOT of good info on commonly asked escort stuff
http://www.cardomain.com/id/escorthowto

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Designing your turbo setup
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
1) You must figure out how fast you want to go, and how quick you want to get there..
2) You must figure out how much money it really costs, then find out how much you want to spend and work around that
3) You must decide what kind of turbo you want
4) You must decide what style manifold you want
5) Figure out what you want to do for fuel management.
6) You MUST decide what INTERCOOLER you want.
- Intercoolers are a must
** DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT SOME SORT OF OIL RESTRICTION**

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OIL FEED / RETURN
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
here is the main reason why you MUST have good feed/return
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=22466

** DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT SOME SORT OF OIL RESTRICTION**
** DO NOT PUT TURBO SYSTEMS ON YOUR CAR WITHOUT SOME SORT OF OIL RESTRICTION**
first:IF USING A STRAIGHT FEED LINE FROM THE BLOCK YOU MUSTHAVE SOME WAY OF REGULATING THE OIL FEED PRESSURE. STOCK TURBOS ONLY NEED ABOUT 15PSI AT IDLE AND 25PSI AT MAX RPM. THIS IS A GOOD WAY OF BLOWING OUT SEALS AND BEARINGS.
-get a valve and put it inline with the turbo oil feed.
-oil feed from block->oil cooler->pressure valve->feed line(pressure guage optional)->turbo


Oil feed comes from the stock oil sender on the back of the block (1.9/2.0)
On the 1.8 motors there is a screw on the block that you can get oil from

Oil return has to be taped into the oil pan. ABOVE the oil level.



drill a hole in the oil pan the size of a ďľ˝ threaded barbed nipple deal. You can use heater hose to connect the nipple to the drain thingy on the turbo with hose clamps



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High/Low compression ratio?
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QUESTION

i was wondering, if you are doing a hybrid cvh, what parts from the 2.0 aside from the head would be good to use? I think you once said something about using the crank, does it fit in the 1.9l bottom end ok? Is there anything else I should pull outta the 2.0l while im there? any idea if the 2.0l tranny is stronger than the 1.9l? any idea at what point the stock internals on the hybrid cvh give out? i have the $ to go forged but if jeffscortlx is putting down all that power on stock internals, then maybe i wont have to.

ANSER

no im just running a straight spi with 9.7:1 compresion. everything from the 1.9/spi are interchangeable. when you use the spi head you have to use the spi intake tho. the spi crank will fit in without any problem. its better balanced and has 8 counterweights instead of 4 on the 1.9. the extra rotating mass is better for town driving and highway. the spi tranny has a bigger clutch, bigger input shaft, and slightly looser gears. if i could have used the spi tranny when i did my swap i would have. the 1.9 clutch is pretty small.
im not sure when the intrenals give out.. jeffs running 7.5ish:1 compression and im running 9.7:1 with the same amount of boost and all ive broken are axels.
in my opinion its better to go higher compression and spend the money on good managment. an fmu just doesnt cut it. you seen jeffs dyno with the afr that is totaly random. with a perfect tune he would be making 10%more power.. which is exactly waht i did by going with the megasquirt. the lower compresison will make you loose power all across the board until you hit about 2 psi.. check it out... at WOT, a motor with 7.5:1would have to be at about 2psi to make the same power as that same motor with 9.5:1 n/a.

Jeffescortlx said:
But at the same time, higher compression means less timing advance, that makes it not as efficent.
the more dense the air, the less time it requires to burn. thus retard. in my opinion, retarding the over all map 2-5* is worth it for the na power.
its up to you man.

check this thread for a discussion on this topic.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7418

Some say that you cannot run turbo cars on a high compression motor, some say you can and it actually will run better, well heres my facts on the matter, lets say you have a stock spi with aprox 10:1 compression, now, atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi at sea level, so where gunna use that, so when your motor intakes a stroke of air and fuel an compresses it has turned that 14.7 and multiplied it by 10, to 147psi.
So that was an easy one, now, lets say you stick a turbo on that motor and run 8psi of boost, now at peak boost you will have the 14.7 plus the 8psi of boost, making 22.7 psi going into your motor on the intake stroke, now compress that by 10 and u have 227psi
Ok, so now we change pistons and lower the compression to 9:1 we run the same boost of 8psi so we have the 22.7psi going in but only compressing it by 9 which gives us 204.3psi, which is less than with stock compression, which means we will make less power, this is where the common misconception comes in that you can run more boost with a lower compression motor, well it is true, but your making more boost to compensate for the lack of compression that your motor has. you see, to get the same power out of the lower compression motor you would have to run 10.5psi(10.522 to be exact) of boost, add the 14.7 which makes 25.22 and multiply that by 9 giving us the 227 which is the same amount of compression at TDC as the stock compression motor.
Now, running 10.5psi of boost to get the same power is going to have drawbacks you will not spool up as quickly because you have to spool to 10.5 psi rather than 8 which isn t much but were talking 10th and hundredths of seconds in racing.
It comes down to tuning, properly tuning a higher compression motor will actually run better than a lower compression motor, you have more power in off-boost situations and with the higher compression your turbo will actually spool up quicker because of the force the exhaust is being released, now you may think that it would be more work tuning the higher compression motor, but in reality if your looking for the same amount of horsepower your going to have to increase the boost in the lower compression motor to make up for it, and in doing so the compression levels and detonation possibility will be equal in both motors, so tuning is everything.

---------------------------------------------
manifolds
---------------------------------------------
Escort EXP
Escort RS Turbo
other custom manifolds will fit
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

-The '84-'85 EXP turbo manifold as well as the RS manifold from the UK.
-The probe/mx-6 turbo will bolt to the EXP manifold (as well as the EXP turbo(IHI))
-any standard T3 will bolt to the RS manifold

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turbo Fundamentals
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
In order to under stand forced induction, we must understand how the turbo works.
we all know that a engine is just an air pump. the turbo helps it pump air by "force-inducting" the pump. as the motor spins up, the turbo also "spools." the higher the turbo spins, the more pressure it has the potential to produce. in a N/A motor, the motor is depending on the size of the intake to make sure that every cylinder gets its full volume for a stoich burn. the biggest problem with n/a motors is that the cyl farthest from the throttle body usualy gets jiped for its volume.. this is where the turbo comes in handy. it "forces" air thru the intake and makes sure every cylinder gets its full volume. this allows for more power and gas mileage.

This section not completed

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort RS manifold Gasket - found an alternative! (PICS)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... 842#233842

------------------------------------------------------------------------
What turbo has what boost?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garrett T3 42/48 set at - 8psi

Most all chrysler 2.2l turbos w/ the goofy t3 all spool at - 5.5psi-6.5

TD04h (14b) - 8psi

.60/.63 Tbird/meurker/svo - 10psi

RHB5 from the Subaru and Probe - 8psi

84-88 nissan 300z t3 .60ar/.63ex. - 5psi

87-88 rx7 twin scroll turbo - 6.2psi

Mitsu TD04L(WRX) - 7 psi

t25 - 8psi

starion 14g Before 1987 - 7psi

starion 1987+ - 11 psi

garret t28 stage 1 - 8.5 psi

garret t28 stage 2 - 10.5psi

garret t28 stage 3 - 15 psi

K26 external - 14psi

Garrett T3 42/48 set at 8psi

GReddy 15g (mitsu td04h-15g) 5.5psi

CT26 5psi

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
What cars have what turbo?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
AUDI-Europe 200 88 2.2L KKK K26
AUDI-Europe 200 88-91 2.2L KKK K24
AUDI-Europe 200 Quattro 91 2.2L KKK K24
AUDI-Europe 5000 80-88 2.2L KKK K26
AUDI-Europe 5000 Diesel 2.0L 88 KKK K24
AUDI-Europe 5000 Quattro 82-88 2.2L KKK K26
AUDI-Europe S4 Quattro 92-94 2.2L KKK K24
AUDI-Europe S4 Biturbo/tt-180 99 2.7L/1.8L KKK K03
AUDI-Europe TT-225hp 99 1.8L KKK K04
AUDI A3, A4, A6, Cabriolet 1.8L,/1.9L diesel GAR GT-15
BMW 324TD/524TD 83-86 GAR TB0324
BMW 745I 84-86 KKK K27
BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
CHEVY Sprint 1.0L IHI RHB31
CHEVY Spectrum 85-90 1.5L IHI RHB521
CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle)
DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H (45 trim)
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04
FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
*****FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W ******
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (water-cooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
*******FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5************
ISUZU MPR Truck 88-92 IHI RHB6-A
*******MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W*********
*******MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water) ******
MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359
MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Auto) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooler) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05
MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR4 - 2x MHI TD04H
PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooler 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
****SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld) ****
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321
Subaru WRX 13T
VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15
GAR=Garrett=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fuel systems
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Because we are adding air to the air side of the air fuel ratio with the turbo we must also add a proportional amount of fuel. If there is not enough fuel to compliment the extra air being forced into the cylinders a lean condition will be created which will cause detonation. Detonation is the enemy on a turbocharged car. Detonation is an uncontrolled, very forceful, explosion in the cylinder that can be audible as knocking. If you want to know what detonation sounds like, take a couple of small ball bearings and put them in an empty aluminum soda can. Now shake the can vigorously and remember that sound. If you should ever hear that sound while driving your car you should avoid the condition (usually WOT, wide open throttle) that creates the sound until you can ascertain its cause. Also be aware that a lean condition makes more heat. This can burn pistons, piston rings, valves, and destroy spark plugs. The funny thing is that, generally speaking, leaner fuel mixtures create more power. So we know what can happen if there is a lean condition, what happens if we have a rich mixture (more fuel than needed). Rich mixtures sap power, foul spark plugs and oxygen sensors, and use more gas than need be. A rich mixture also runs a lot cooler. Of course, nobody has ever blown up a piston by running rich. So as you can see there is a trade off between running lean mixtures and getting maximum horsepower at the risk of doing damage to engine internals, and running rich and losing some horsepower but gaining quite a bit of reliability and safety. The key to all of this is fuel and engine management and tuning.

-------
Different types of fuel systems
1) FMU (cheapest)
2) A-FMU, A-FPR, 24# injectors
3) MIC (MAF, injectors, chip)
4) AFC and S-AFC
5) MegaSquirt

---------------------
FMU
FMU stands for Fuel Management Unit. You will defiantly need this because it adds more fuel into your cylinders when you boost. If you force more air into the cylinders via a turbo, you must add more fuel! And how do we add more fuel? There are a couple of methods. We can make the injectors shoot in more by getting larger injectors, or we can increase the fuel pressure (easy way)



Without an FMU, your motor will blow up for sure! All FMUs have ratings, such as 12:1 or 8:1. What that means is, if its a 12:1, it will raise fuel pressure 12 PSI per 1 PSI of boost. So if you boost 7 PSI, then it will raise the fuel pressure to 7 X 12 = 84 PSI. But you must remember the base pressure of 40psi. Which would bring the pressure up to 124psi. But it really doesn t& When the fuel pressure is raised, more fuel is added into the cylinders. Easy concept.

The stock escort fuel system will handle about 5psi safely (WITH A FMU. DON T BE LIKE ME AND THINK YOU CAN PUT A TURBO ON WITH OUT AN FMU)

------------
FMU INSTALATION
------------
well the first thing you gotta do is take a deep breath....

ok heres how it goes:

there are 2 conector deals where your fuel feed and return lines attach to the fuel rail...
they should be kind of a round deal with a spring deal inside which holds the conector to the rail. you use a "ford fuel and a/c line" detacher to unhook it. once youv unhooked it your left with a return line with a conector on it...

the fuel line should be a plastic piping on the inside witha rubbery protecter layer on the out side. usualy you just cut an inch or so of the ruber crap off...

you take a sharp cutty deal and remove the conector from the fuel line.
if you take the sharp cutty deal and then proced to remove the plastic tubage off of the conector youll notice its got barbs on it. all they did was press the fuel line over it and then heat shrink it to the conector...

now that thats out of the way:

get a few feet of fuel line and hose clamps. get a section of line and put the conector on one end , then hook the other to the "in" on the fmu....

this is the only really tricky part.. use the other pieceo f the fuel line to conect on the fmu's "out". youll have to go to the hardware store and get a pipe conector deal with barbs on both ends. put that on the other end of the fuel line and then ream it into the plastic return line.. secure everything with hose clamps.. then your done. power the system and check for leaks.. run the motor for a while without boosting to get things warm, then re tighten the hose clamps. then your done

-------------------
FMU, A-FPR, 24# injectors
This method is better than just the FMU route. It is more customizable, and more reliable then the FMU by its self is. Using a fuel pressure gauge and the O2 sensor, you can accurately tune the base pressure and the FMU rate.

-------------------------
MIC (MAF, injectors, chip)
This is one of the better ways to go. By getting the MAF off of a larger motor, like a 5.0, larger injectors and a chip, you can do more boost.
-Here is how it works. Our MAF (5vt limit at about 120hp) is calibrated for the 15#(1.9) or the 19# (SPI) injectors. The 5.0 MAF is calibrated for larger injectors, and 4 more than we have& so, if you use the 5.0 MAF, it thinks its still being used on the 8 stock 24# injectors. Since we only have 4 injectors, we must double the bandwidth on them by switching to 48# injectors.. Get it? Ok&. Now that we have taken care of that, the chip is to change the fuel and ignition timing curves. The major setback we have is the ignition timing. The stock system can deal with it up till about 5psi then things get iffy, and you get detonation

---------------------
AFC and S-AFC
The piggyback systems take the stock MAF signal and modify it in order to use larger injectors.


---------------------
MegaSquirt (MS)
This is the best setup in my opinion. It is completely stand-alone. This means it gets rid of the stock PCM. You can customize your fuel and timing maps on your laptop. You MUST have EDIS to make this work. Some of the 1.8 guys adapted the EDIS to their motors. You do not need a MAF sensor because the MS has its own built in MAP sensor.
All you need is the MS and a laptop. You must make your own harness because the MS needs its own system of sensors.
http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/mtabcon.htm

here are some of the features of the MS:
-Completely customizable fuel maps
-Completely customizable timing maps
-with mod for use with EDIS
-can use ANY injector...ANY
-eliminates the pcm and stock harness totally
-gauge readings come thru laptop
-log mode(suggest changes to maps)
-2 rpm switches
-uses a MAP sensor so you don't have to worry about the MAF ever again getting heat soaked, or who wants blow/draw thru.
-revlimiter

the mod that just came out has these features:
-launch control/revlimiter
-nos control/timer
-water spray controller
-Dual fuel tables + 12x12 ignition table
-Knock control

You can use the MS on distributor motors or EDIS.
For Distributor:
the disto is fixed at like 40 btdc or so...it sends the ecu a signal whenever it gets to an ignition event...the ms waits a certain number of degrees and sends a signal to fire an igniter which in turn fires the coil

you can even put the MS and the EDIS on a non EDIS car. all you need is the ckp
on a 4 banger you mount the sensor 90 degrees btdc of the missing tooth (located at tdc)
on the 1.8 you turn the pulley down enough to get the 1.9/2.0 trigger wheel around it then weld it on.

this page describes how the EDIS4 works so you can wire it up in any car
http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis_summary.html

here is a thread on ms maps
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7408

Use this link if you need to convert pressures that aren`t listed below.
http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/boost_converter.shtml

Here is the conversion chart you ll need for the MS
PSI in-Hg (vac) KPA
-12.28 -25.00 16.657
-11.79 -24.00 20.036
-11.30 -23.01 23.414
-10.81 -22.01 26.793
-10.31 -20.99 30.240
-9.33 -19.00 36.997
-8.84 -18.00 40.375
-8.35 -17.00 43.754
-7.86 -16.00 47.132
-7.37 -15.01 50.511
-6.88 -14.01 53.889
-6.38 -12.99 57.336
-5.40 -10.99 64.093
-4.42 -9.00 70.850
-3.93 -8.00 74.234
-3.44 -7.00 77.607
-2.95 -6.01 80.985
-2.46 -5.01 84.364
-1.96 -3.99 87.811
-1.47 -3.00 91.166
-0.98 -2.00 94.552
-0.49 -1.00 97.947
0.00 0.00 101.325
1.00 2.04 108.220
2.00 4.07 115.115
3.00 6.11 122.009
4.00 8.14 128.904
5.00 10.18 135.799
6.00 12.22 142.694
7.00 14.25 149.588
8.00 16.29 156.483
9.00 18.32 163.378
10.00 20.36 170.273
11.00 22.40 177.167
12.00 24.43 184.062
13.00 26.47 190.957
14.00 28.50 197.852
15.00 29.70 204.746

--------------
5th injector
Extra Injectors

Components Required
-Stock Injectors
-1 or 2 Extra Injectors
-Auxiliary Injector Controller

This option is the least reliable and least precise. The extra injectors add fuel by spraying it directly into the intake charge pipe before the throttle body. Their own injector controller controls the extra injectors. With this option, fuel pooling up inside the intake manifold can happen and equal amounts of fuel will not get into each cylinder. This will create different air fuel ratios in each cylinder. This is a quite simple setup. The injectors run off of 12(14) volts just like everything else. You can just hook them up to a switch if you wanted to.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now you get how a turbo system works right? Lets review.

1. Exhaust gases from the turbo is blown into the turbo.
2. The turbo is like a pump; it uses the exhaust gases (free energy) to pump air.
3. This pumped air is then blown into some pipes that connect to the intake manifold which forces the air into the cylinders.
4. This pumped air from the turbo is HOT, so we use an intercooler to cool down this air slightly before it enters the engine.
5. The blow off valve is used to relieve pressure from the turbo when you let go of the throttle when under boost.
6. YOU HAVE GOOD FUEL MANAGMENT

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
BOV and Wastegates
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
The blow off valve is a unit that goes on the pressure side of the intake.

When you drop the throttle, the boosted air has to go somewhere. If you don t have a BOV, you will end up buying a new turbo. Buying an adjustable BOV is a good idea. Depending on how much boost you run you can make it open at different times
-------------------------
External Wastegate

The external wastegate is used for vehicles using massive boost. It is just like a bov except it is used for dumping excess exhaust for regulating boost levels. Most turbos have internal Wastegates.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOP END BOOST DROP OFF
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=9241

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Manual Boost Controller (MBC)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you want to adjust the PSI you are running at without changing the internal wastegate spring, want to quickly change the level of boost, or have an internal wastegate and want to raise the boost level then you will need a boost controller. A boost controller works by preventing the wastegate from sensing any boost, and thus opening, until the boost controller senses that the boost level it is set at has been reached. In order for a boost controller to work you cannot set it lower than the PSI level of the wastegate spring. For example, if you have a wastegate with a 10 PSI spring the boost controller will not work at any level under 10 PSI.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Blow/Draw Thru
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
This has been argued over for a long time. Blow thru is where you have the MAF on the pressure side of the intake. Draw thru is where the MAF or VAF is on the vacuum side.
Both setups have their pros/cons

Note: the MAF in this setup should be placed at least 6 from the TB, and the BOV should be placed at least 6 or more downstream of the MAF. If these things are too close it will cause turbulence in the intake and result in an improper MAF reading.

Blow thru. Pro s
- Fastest A/F ratio changes
- More accurate
- Eliminates 99% of idle problems
- Meters exactly how much air is going into the motor, not how much is in the intake.
- Easier to use BOV
- Can use atmospheric BOV
- Totally eliminates recirc setups

Blow thru cons.
- MAF more prone to heat soak (can be minimized by using a good intercooler)
- If not properly placed on the intake side can cause hesitation in motor.
- Can be hard to hook up.
- Can get oil in MAF from turbo leakage.

Draw thru pros
- Can be used with the recirc setup if you want a deadly quiet setup.

Draw thru cons
-if the MAF is set too far from the TB, it will make the motor think its getting more air than it is and it will go into panic mode, or not idle correctly. IE: if you start your car, its sucking air thru the entire intake system. By the time the intake pressure equalizes the MAF is just starting to take a reading. The PCM will freak out because it doesn t think its getting enough air and will go into retarded idle mode. When the motor spins up, it creates more vacuum in the intake, when the MAF equalizes and the motor spins down, it still takes a second for the intake to completely equalize. Thus making it sort of like a sea-saw affect with the MAF and PCM. Get it? Its like sucking thru a 10 hose. When you stop sucking the air is still moving thru the hose and blows allover your face. The same thing is happening here. When the throttle is closed the air is still moving and the MAF is still reading. By the time it figures it out you have been running extremely rich for the last few seconds.
-I used both methods and I think blow thru is the best.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
PCV
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=20702
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=21166

The positive crankcase ventilation system exists to relieve positive air pressure from the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is created by piston ring blow by and by the up and down motion of the pistons (just as the piston seals the top of the combustion chamber it seals the bottom of the cylinder, pulling air in on the compression and exhaust stroke, pushing air on the intake and power stroke). In order to relieve this pressure, a vacuum pressure sucks the pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV system. If the pressure is not vented piston ring and piston ring land damage can occur from the rings being jostled around as the piston is drawn down towards the crankcase, fighting against the pressure. In a turbo application this system must be modified or it will not work. Before figuring out how to modify the system it is a good idea to see how the stock system works. Below is a diagram of the stock PCV system:



The problem when a turbocharger is added is that the intake pipe and intake manifold become pressurized. If the fitting on the valve cover is still connected to the pressurized intake pipe it will pressurize the crankcase too. At the same time, the PCV valve will close when pressure is exerted on the top half of the valve, sealing the crankcase. If no modifications are made to the system a pressurized and sealed crankcase will occur when the boost kicks in, this is the worst possible time to have a sealed and pressurized crankcase.



Air flows through the crankcase and out of the PCV port which now has a plastic 90* barbed fitting in it (no PCV valve). From the PCV port, the air flows into the side of the catch can and out of the top of the can. Air then flows back to the pre-turbo intake pipe. A 90* fitting is not required here because air flowing across the opening of the fitting in the intake pipe will draw air out in the direction of air flow (the same reason water comes out the top of a straw when it is submerged in a glass of water and you blow across the top of it).
This routing is not a closed circuit system with the only drive for the system being provided by vacuum.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Turbo Timer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
A turbo timer is used to keep the engine running for a set amount of time even though the key has been removed from the ignition. This is done to keep oil, and water if applicable, running through the turbo to allow the turbo to cool down without you having to sit in the car to manually turn it off. The turbo timers come with security features that prevent someone from jumping in your running car after you`ve gotten out. These security features usually work by turning off the engine if the parking brake is released or if the clutch pedal is depressed. Most timers have circuitry that will allow a car alarm to arm even with the engine running. A turbo timer works by intercepting the ignition switch signal to the computer, keeping the ignition on when the ignition switch is off. If you have an oil temperature gauge it is easy to judge how long the turbo timer should be set for. The harder the turbo has been run or the hotter the oil the longer the timer should be set for, usually 1-2 minutes is sufficient

TEARMS
PCM- Power train Control Module
EDIS- Electronic Distributor Ignition System
MAF- Mass Air Flow Sensor
FPR- Fuel Pressure Regulator
A-FPR- Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
FMU- Fuel Management Unit
A-FMU- Adjustable Fuel Management Unit
MS- MegaSquirt
AFC- Air/Fuel Controller

-----
www.feoa.net
www.escortracing.org
www.escortunderground.com
www.escorttuner.com

---------
LINKS
FUEL STUFF
FMU - Vortech http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/
PUMP - Walbro http://www.walbro.com/

STANDALONE STUFF
Apexi - http://www.apexi-usa.com/
MegaSquirt - http://www.megasquirt.info/manual/mtabcon.htm
SDS - http://www.sdsefi.com/
Haltech - http://www.haltech.com/
Electromotive - http://www.emi.cc/
Motec - http://www.motec.com/
Fel-Pro - http://www.fuelairspark.com/

BOV
Greddy http://www.greddy.com/
HKS http://www.hksusa.com/
Blitz http://www.blitz-na.com/

T3 REBUILD CENTER HOUSINGS.
http://www.speedpartsrus.com/

(.50/.48)T3 FOR $$359
http://www.turbocalculator.com/view-pro ... 02-002-001

RANDOM STUFF
Vacuum Manifold http://www.mcmaster.com/
the DIY wideband, a fairly cheap option for tuning:
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htm

References:
Thanks to:
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.html

----------------------------------------------------------
Section 2. Automatic Transmitions and BOOST
----------------------------------------------------------
There have been quite a few posts reguarding boosting atx's

if you have any of these conserns this thread is for you:

:?: will my axt hold boost?
:?: why did my atx with 150k blow up?
:?: how long until my atx bolows up?
:?: how much boost will an atx hold?
:!: my atx wont hold boost

Most people believe that automatic transmitions are weak. the truth of the matter is that the transmitoin its self is not weak. the electronicly controled shift solonoids make the clutches burn out because they want it to shift smoothly. this is why GM trannys fail so often.

automatic transmitions are drivin by:
-Torque Converter
-Valve Body and Oil pump
-Forward Drive Bands or "brakes"
-Clutch Packs
-"planetary gears" vs. manual transmitions standard drive gears.



http://auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic ... ssion3.htm

in a standard manual transmition;
-Clutch
-Imput shaft
-Gear sets
-Output shaft
the power comes thru the input shaft, then is split thru a set of multiplyer gears which multiply torque to the ground.

for a MTX; each gear has ONE "mesh point" where the drive gear is contacted on the drivin gear.

for a ATX; each gear has a minimum of THREE "mesh points" where the drivin SUN, CARRIER, or RING gear contacts the next part.

now down to business..
manual transmitions have the ability to hold substantial power outputs, but automatics can handle that and then above.
the design of the planetary gear sets and there minimum of 3 contact points can handle more power than a mtx's one contact point.

sure, if you hvae a atx with 150k miles on it, its going to slip with boost. just like a mtx with 150k on it, its not the tranny thats bad. its the clutch or clutch packs and brakes in the atx.. any properly rebuilt atx will outperform and shift faster than any mtx on the market.
everyone knows what a manual clutch looks like. how big they are, how much surface area there is, what happens when they get over heated and burned up.
the shcere surface area of the clutch and clamp force is what determins how fast it shifts and how much power it holds. automatic trannys use line pressure to hold clutch packs in place. oil pressure increases linear with engine rpm's... so the higher it spins, the more line pressure is let go to the clutches. the governor valve regulates shifting under normal contditnios.

here is what a clutch set looks like in a standard autmoatic

notice there are 4 clutch disks and 5 steel disks.

the piston forces the clutches and disks together making the clutches grab onto the sun gear, while the disks with poky's grab the drum.

this is the oil pump. this is directly conected to the torque converter, it is a positive displacement pump. which means what comes in GOES out period. the pressure out put is governed by the valve body. the fater the car goes, the more the governor lets out to the clutches and valve body.


most automatic transmitions fail under boost because of heat. the atx is a hydraulic pump all in all. the more pwer is put into it the more heat it generates. proper cooling is paramount to atx longjevity.

it is really really really really hard to break an atx, sure the clutches and bands frag, but they usualy dont fail.
mtx's break, snap, casings break, gears snap, output shafts twist....

-------------------------------------------------------------
Section 3 MTX and Diagnostics
-------------------------------------------------------------
*under construction*

MTX's are made up of a fairly simple train of components. the gear sets of the MTX are made of hardened steel. however prety strong, they will never compair to the power-handling abilities of automatic planetary carriers.

if properly and nicely shifted, these trannys can handle quite a big of power. the most common failure of these trannys are the differentials them selfs rather than internal trany parts. if your using substantial power, and your banging and hammering on it, it will break like a tooth pick.

motor mounts, suspention, and bad driving are the top causes of these trannys to fail. they dont like bad mounts because it puts incredible stresses on the system when shifting and acel/decel.

problems addressed:

:arrow: rattling noises
:arrow: gear grinding
:arrow: pops out of gear
:arrow: sticks in gear
:arrow: clutch related issues

theres not much that can fail on a MTX
MTX failure patterns:
-heat, causes friction and drag.
--noises and leaks
-bearings
-gears
-seals

:!: rattling noises
-TO
-PB
-Imput/output shaft suport bearing
-loose countershaft

:!: gear grinding
-PB
-Draging disk
-Gear synchro blocking ring

:!: pops out of gear
-linkage
-Rounded teeth no blocking ring

:!: sticks in gear
-Rounded or warped synchro teeth
-Imput shaft suport bearing

:!: clutch related issues.
clutch in -> out of gear -> grind going into gear
-PB can be frozen or close to it. will cause imput shaft to spin with clutch in
-warped/Draging disk

minor diagnostic tekniques:
TO: rattling
-clutch in on startup
PB:
-clutch in in first gear, pull out, wait and put back in, listen for clanking
Blocking plates:
-same as above, however, this test is promarily looking for harshness or resistance going back into gear.

PB - pilot bearing
TO - throw out

:?: mtx shift points
:arrow:
1st to ~30mph (34mph)
2nd to ~50mph (56mph)
3rd to ~80mph (85mph)
4th to ~100mph ish
5th has gone over ~125mph

-jet-lee

1st=29-31mph
2nd=58-60
3rd=92mph
4th=110mph
5th=130+

ive got clocked at 141 at 5300rpms, on a slight hill

-NYinThaBuilding05

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Section 4 General FAQ/Links
-------------------------------------------------------------------
i went arround and made a list of everything i thought relavent and posted it here.. ill also make another post in the how to section. theres no real order here, so just look thru it all.

About Ebay supercharge any car stuff.
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13591

The "what can i do to my 1.9" Thread
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=8180

The "What Can I Do to your 2.0L SPI" Thread
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=21296

ANSWER TO THE INFAMOUS "1991 LX CAM BEING BETTER"
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=13177

Best Preformance Pistons
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=22657

How-To: FMU Instalation
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=9207

How-To: Adjust MOST Car's Rear Brakes
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=11992

How-To: Bleed Hydraulic Clutch/Brake lines
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... pic&t=8282

How-To: Diagnose Some Suspention Problems
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=11930

How-To: fix a Broken SPI servo
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Fo ... ic&t=18544

How To Change a fuel pump / fix a car that dies on corners
http://www.feoa.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=v
 
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