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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I am trying to change the clutch in my 93 EGT. After reading a few books, I figured that I could do this myself. Not realizing how much more difficult it is in real life than on paper, I started the job. I guess I must be alot more of an amature than I thought, because I ran into some BIG problems that I cannot get past.

1. The drivers side CV will NOT come out of the tranny. I have tried prying on it from all angles, different pry bars, long screw drivers, etc. The passengers side one was easy, but I spent over 2hrs trying different ideas, but no use.

2. I then thought that there might be enough room to drop the tranny out while leaving that CV in. Well, I undid all the mounts, and all the engine to tranny bolts, crossmember, starter, shift rod and the other big bar, and the tranny will not seperate from the engine. I have the engine supported on top by a rolling shop crane, and I was trying to use a floor jack with a 1" thick board to support the tranny. Well, I let the weight go onto the jack, but I could not pull the tranny away from the motor. I tried hitting it with a rubber mallet, but no use. I dont want to use pry bars, since we are dealing with alot of aluminum here.

Anyone got any suggestions? Im about ready to give up!!
 

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based on what you said you didn't remove any bolts....also probably the input shaft is still at the clutch assembly.....what i did on mine was yank them both......engine w/ the tranny.....from the top w/ a cherry picker....(that's my opinion since i did it that way....).....also on the cv shft...that should go out like the other one.....well if you want to use a bar and a hammer, you can strike the bar through the transaxle through the gears and on to the cv shaft.....hope this helps.....
 

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I agree with Kikoy, if you have a engine crane. It is a lot easier to pull the engine and the transmission together and seperate them on the floor. As far as the stuck axle. It can be very hard to get them out some times. I actually split a case pullin one once. But normally they are not that bad. You can usually get them with a good pry bar. Try to hit the bar with a hammer to shock it.
 

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use two pry bars - they don't need to be big. I had the same problem on mine. It helps if you have two sets of hands, one keep tension on one prybars, the other to hit the damn thing with hammer untill it comes out. remember the tranny case is aluminum and will crack if you beat it to hard.
 

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it is possible to pull the tranny out the bottom and leave the drivers axel on. in the last year i have pulled about 10 trannies. one of which i had to do the axel on deal. its a total beotch but its possible.

NEUMAN
 

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EASIER TO PULL THE ENGINE W/ THE TRANNY???? No no no, man no one takes advantage of my articles. I wrote an extensive step by step on tranny swap(which you can just use the first half to change the clutch).
The CV will come out. You just have to pry the correct way. Best way if you are looking at it dead on is to get ur pry bar in at about 7 -8 o'clock and Pump it. Do not put constant pressure on it. Just pump it w/ hard thrusts and it will come out. Its just a lil ring that expands....just have to put enough force to get it to contract. And if you pull your axles its HIGHLY recommended that u replace the axle seals. They arent really designed to have ur axle coming in and out.

Now if ur popping your CV. I'm hoping you drained ur fluid otherwise ur gonna get a face full.

Lastly, it is possible to pull tranny asside w/out removing the driver's side CV. Once you have all ur bolts out....3 tranny mount bolts....bellhousing bolts...crossmember bolts.... THen unbolt your wheel hub from your control arm and have someone pull out gently on the wheel hub while you pull out on the tranny. But do prop the tranny up w/ a pump jack, cuz that thing is heavy and its gonna come out when you pull..
 

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THen unbolt your wheel hub from your control arm and have someone pull out gently on the wheel hub while you pull out on the tranny.
if you feel like having to possibly re-do your alignment then do that. other wise just undo your spindle from your strut and unclip the brake line from the strut too. this will let your spindle hang out and to the rear. allowing you plenty of room to pop the axel out of your spindle and free space to wobble when removing tranny.

its just once you start playing with steering components its starts to become and alignment factor. i did 3 tranny swaps in my car last year and had it aligned after wards and it was still the same as before the swaps.

NEUMAN
 

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How much money are you really saving by doing this yourself? I was considering a clutch change in my dad's ranger, for when he comes back from sea
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replys everyone. I managed to get the tranny out today. I ended up leaving the Left Side CV still in the tranny.

I have a complete clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, release bearing) and a new rear main seal. I will need to get the flywheel machined before I install the new clutch, since there are some burn marks / discoloration on there.

The old clutch was definitly shot, the disc was worn down to the rivets, and the ends of the pressure plate fingers were worn down a bit.

Unfortionatly I have to work tomorrow, so I am not sure if I can make it down to the machine shop or not.

Thanks again. :)

EDIT: Steve, I went to a couple different shops, and got quotes between 4-5hrs labour. Cheapest place I could find is at the Canadian Tire where I work, they said 4hrs @ $69.00/hr (and I would get an 11% discount for being an employee)

Still, I didnt pay much for the car, and would rather make this into a learning experiance, rather than just fork over the dough. JMHO though...
 

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im only gona say one thing.... you should'nt have trying prying your drive axle out of the transmisson
 

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here's 2cents from when I did my centerforce. Make sure you have all the bolts out..all of them, start cleaning the grease off.

As far as the half shaft, borrow a slide hammer...they do wonders, but it shouldnt be taking as much force as you described.

anyhow hope it helps.

ps my clutch change took me 5hrs to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, now that the tranny was out of the car, I managed to get that stubborn cv out. It actually came out fairly easily, but I did end up damaging the seal, and had to replace it. ($5.00)

I managed to get all the new clutch goodies installed, and the tranny bolted back up. I also got the drivers side mount installed. Now I am contemplating replacing that axle, since one boot is torn, and the other is cracked, or just changing the boots. The passenger side is relitivly new, so I think putting a little extra money out now will save me lator.
 

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I just wanted to add something to this. When you have your tranny out of the car be sure that the speedo sensor can be easily removed from the tranny. That sensor is essentially a dipstick for the fluid level in the tranny. Since it is aluminum, the possibility exists for it to seize in the tranny housing. It tends to be a pain to remove.
 

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96lxscort said:
I just wanted to add something to this. When you have your tranny out of the car be sure that the speedo sensor can be easily removed from the tranny. That sensor is essentially a dipstick for the fluid level in the tranny. Since it is aluminum, the possibility exists for it to seize in the tranny housing. It tends to be a pain to remove.
Yeah, it can be pretty tough to get out. If it hasn't been taken out in a while, turn it to free it up. Don't pound it with a hammer...
chill
 
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