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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so you guys know I bought my stainless mesh filter from corksport. I installed it last thursday and it looks great, my VAF is freakin huge...btw you need that little black box that's on the intake tube just behind the VAF. I took mine off and the car wouldn't stay started for more than a few seconds, so I put it back on and bam it starts up beautifully. What is it? like a resonance chamber that flows excess air from the intake plenum? :?

Anyway, now the filter sits in the stock location and when my engine is warm, so is the intake...(seriously, it's metal...it gets hot to the touch) is there a company that sells just some pieces of piping that would fit the 1.8 pipe sizes that are bent so I can reroute it to a lower part of my engine where it can get more and cooler air?

Right now my engine is just sucking in the warm/hot engine bay air. But I feel no difference with it anyway, I just want to be sure this was worth it. I might have some pics of it tomorrow. :D
 

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Just look for a 3" mandrel bent 90 degree pipe. Then just get some couplers and you can make it stick down into the front fenderwell like mine is. Since you have a GT you might want to do an LX overflow bottle/washer fluid bottle swap so you have more room. On the LX/Pony they are both on the passenger side so you get plenty of room for your intake. For some reason the GT overflow bottle is on the driver side. Also www.ctamotorsports.com has a cold air elbow that's supposed to be for a 3rd gen escort but it will pretty much fit anything as far as I can tell. You might have to trim it but nothing major. Oh well hope that helps a little.
 

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One other thing, you could just make a "wall" (with a hole in it) out of sheet metal or something, and stick it between the filter and VAF to keep the filter isolated away from all the heat. Basically a filter heat shield I suppose. That would be cheaper than buying a cold air elbow.
 

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or like i want to do

i got 3 inch 60 degree rubber piping.... route my intake plenum tube throught that, then metal pipe through the vaf, then one that goes down to just about the same level as the cross memeber with a cone filter on it.... i can show pics of design later.
 

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Just getting my voice in :)

Well I just added my cold air and I notice a huge diference in first and second...... here is a link to a pick if that helps any..... http://teamdrastic.ionichost.com/html/david.html

I didnt go with the stainless steel pipe or anything just used what I had and a dremal it might be cheap but it seems to do the job....... I need to lower it in the engine at some point and time... just not sure if that will really make a big difference or not... let me know if it does.
 

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Hey Thunder, I don't want to steal your "thunder".... :lol: .....but if the picture you have at that link is current and up-to-date, then what you have is not a cold air intake. It is simply an aftermarket intake. For an intake to be cold air, it has to draw air from a place that will allow it to get the cooler, normal temperature air outside of the engine bay. (Hence the name "cold air intake.") This can be from the fenderwell or some other "cool" spot. Once you do get it moved into another location, give us some pics cause I would like to see how you did it.

On that note, has anyone out there every bought the K&N filtercharger kit and then done it as a cold air intake? Since the filter bolts directly on the VAF, I am not sure how to (or where to) get the cool air to it. Should I figure out a way to duct air to the filter and somehow shield it from the rest of the engine bay, or should I get some piping to fit the diameter of VAF and run from it to the filter and relocate the filter? (I hope this makes sense.) Anyway, if you have done this or have any ideas, please let me know.
 

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From my experience, I put in the larger RX-7 VAF and an enlarged K&N FIPK into my 91GT and other than slightly improved throttle response (and a mean intake suck sound to boot) the only actual performance gain I got was more pull at 5500+rpms... and I'm hardly ever up that high.

On top of that, it screwed around with my a/f ratio and killed my gas mileage by 1 or 2 mpgs. I'd say that for all intensive purposes you should just stick with the stock layout. The stock layout is more of a cold air intake than anything I've seen some ricer bozos try to convince me of otherwise.
</rant>
 

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Spider-Man said:
On that note, has anyone out there every bought the K&N filtercharger kit and then done it as a cold air intake? Since the filter bolts directly on the VAF, I am not sure how to (or where to) get the cool air to it.
That's exactly what Sleeperscort is talking about. You need to clear out the fender well below the filter by getting LX overflow bottles and such, then get a 3" elbow to drop the filter down in there. Check out his site to see his trick heat shield. There is plenty of cool air flow into that chamber in the fender, and I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to duct some extra air in.

One thing to remember when ducting outside air.. the 12" layer of air over the pavement is the highest in temperature. Get cool air from higher up.
 

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(S***, I'm pretty confused...my apologies from the getgo.)

So, if I replace my overflow canister with one from an LX, I should have more room in that area of the engine bay? Interesting....I've never heard or thought of that. Does the LX one just bolt right up?

Also, if I swith the VAF to the RX7 VAF, do I have to buy a new K&N filter kit? I don't think I have the tools or knowledge to do a lot of cutting on the fender, plus, no other car to drive while I do that type of mod, so it will probably have to wait until either of those circumstances change. Even though, as Siragan mentioned, the stock intake is cooler air, doesn't the amount of bends and amount of piping kind of negate the cooler air. (I guess my question is this...is it better to have more warm air, or less cool air? Should I leave my kit on or should I got back to the factory intake?)
 

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The intake is more complex than aftermarket producers make you believe. They make you believe that their system is simple and consistent with general intuition and as a result increase sales. However, this is not so.

In general, media brainwashes consumers into doing what they do best - consuming. Consequently, sales increase along with revenue. This is one flaw of free market economy... but now that I've lost 98% of my readers I'll reward the remaining 2% with some boring factoids on my finds on intakes.

Concerning the resivoir overflow bottle, you can mount it so it hangs on the engine side rather than in the "cavity" near the wheel well. It's pretty easy to do and functions identically. Colder air is less dense than warm air (charles' law) so you can improve the volumetric efficiency of your engine by using a cold air intake.

Bends cause turbulence and because of turbulence you're not really restricting flow per se, but you're introducing irregularity in the flow within the tube. You ideally want a laminar flow within the tube at high stream velocities (which are nullified when throttle closes during shifts).

If I were you I wouldn't put any intake on the LX at all. Due to the engine design, the LX was designed to run at a lower rpm. They purposely tuned it to be an economy car (which is why I bitch incessantly about what schiessboxes the escorts are) by running a lean(er) mixture and tuning the engine to have a powerband geared more towards torque at the lower end. Why did they do this? Because they knew that only soccer moms with automatics would be putting around in LX's buying cheap 87 octane gas and pinching pennies. So naturally they didn't even focus on the amazingly large powerband that the 1.8L BP has, especially in the high rpms.

Even with an ideal intake, the top end of the 1.9L SEFI just isn't there. That piece of crap engine just totally hits the wall above 4500rpm, CAI or not... it's the fact that the valves won't promote the volumetric effieicncy that the 1.8 posesses.

sorry kiddo... but the intake won't help that much. If I were you I'd consider just getting a "real" car. my 2.
 

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Even with an ideal intake, the top end of the 1.9L SEFI just isn't there. That piece of crap engine just totally hits the wall above 4500rpm, CAI or not... it's the fact that the valves won't promote the volumetric effieicncy that the 1.8 posesses.

sorry kiddo... but the intake won't help that much. If I were you I'd consider just getting a "real" car. my 2.
Thats a load of.... This guy is trying to learn how to improve his car and all you can do is tell him to get a "Real" car. If you're going to help him cool but don't dog his car just because he wants to improve it. Would we all drive Cobra R's if we could? probably! Can we afford them? hell no. But an LX or a GT is a great affordable car to play with.

I preffer the EGT but that is easy for me to say I was able to find out about them before I bought.

P.S. What is this Valve stuff? Sure the BP has a decent head, strong internals and a nifty VICS system. That doesn't make it the god machine by any stretch of the imagination.

Dude do what 91sleeper and beaverboy are saying. They know what they are talking about.
 

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siragan said:
If I were you I wouldn't put any intake on the LX at all. Due to the engine design, the LX was designed to run at a lower rpm. They purposely tuned it to be an economy car (which is why I bitch incessantly about what schiessboxes the escorts are) by running a lean(er) mixture and tuning the engine to have a powerband geared more towards torque at the lower end. Why did they do this? Because they knew that only soccer moms with automatics would be putting around in LX's buying cheap 87 octane gas and pinching pennies. So naturally they didn't even focus on the amazingly large powerband that the 1.8L BP has, especially in the high rpms.

Even with an ideal intake, the top end of the 1.9L SEFI just isn't there. That piece of crap engine just totally hits the wall above 4500rpm, CAI or not... it's the fact that the valves won't promote the volumetric effieicncy that the 1.8 posesses.

sorry kiddo... but the intake won't help that much. If I were you I'd consider just getting a "real" car. my 2.
Siragan, I'm not sure to whom you were directing these comments, but since they seem to mostly deal with the questions I brought up, I have to assume that you were speaking to me. I've highlighted your comments within your post that I wanted to respond to most.

(which is why I bitch incessantly about what schiessboxes the escorts are)

(quoted from another post for time's sake)
You really seem to hate Fords. What's the deal? I'm not a big fan of Ford in general, but I like my EGT quite a bit. Sure its old and it doesn' t have the appeal that a Supra, or a Vette is going to have, but its fun as hell to drive, didn't cost much, and actually came with a better engine than a lot of cars from that time that are more popular. If you dislike your Ford so much why do you spend the amount of time customizing and improving it? Especially doing something like that headlight conversion, which is the biggest pain in the rear customization I've ever heard of anyone on this site doing. (But its also the sweetest I've seen.) That's funny to me.

sorry kiddo...

Also, I couldn't help but wonder who you were calling "kiddo." I'm 25 years old, just in case you WERE talking to me when you wrote that.

Anyway, all that said, I agree with you egtdude, Beaver and Sleeper do know their stuff when it comes to cars in general, and 'scorts specifically. (So does Siragan, in my opinion, even if his "bitching" does get a little old sometimes. :wink: ) However, I'm not clear on a couple of things due to my relatively limited knowledge. I am mostly concerned with wether or not I would have to get a new K&N kit if I went with the RX-7 VAF. I am also not quite sure whether Beaver was referring to replacing the GT style overflow bottle with the LX style, or if he was referring to switching two bottles within the same car. Finally, I'm wondering if doing all that work on the bottles and cutting into the fender for CAI would net a large enough increase in performance (as compared to just having the intake kit) for it to be worth it. Thanks for your patience guys, you have all been really helpful so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
siragan said:
The intake is more complex than aftermarket producers make you believe. They make you believe that their system is simple and consistent with general intuition and as a result increase sales. However, this is not so.

In general, media brainwashes consumers into doing what they do best - consuming. Consequently, sales increase along with revenue. This is one flaw of free market economy... but now that I've lost 98% of my readers I'll reward the remaining 2% with some boring factoids on my finds on intakes.

Concerning the resivoir overflow bottle, you can mount it so it hangs on the engine side rather than in the "cavity" near the wheel well. It's pretty easy to do and functions identically. Colder air is less dense than warm air (charles' law) so you can improve the volumetric efficiency of your engine by using a cold air intake.

Bends cause turbulence and because of turbulence you're not really restricting flow per se, but you're introducing irregularity in the flow within the tube. You ideally want a laminar flow within the tube at high stream velocities (which are nullified when throttle closes during shifts).

If I were you I wouldn't put any intake on the LX at all. Due to the engine design, the LX was designed to run at a lower rpm. They purposely tuned it to be an economy car (which is why I bitch incessantly about what schiessboxes the escorts are) by running a lean(er) mixture and tuning the engine to have a powerband geared more towards torque at the lower end. Why did they do this? Because they knew that only soccer moms with automatics would be putting around in LX's buying cheap 87 octane gas and pinching pennies. So naturally they didn't even focus on the amazingly large powerband that the 1.8L BP has, especially in the high rpms.

Even with an ideal intake, the top end of the 1.9L SEFI just isn't there. That piece of crap engine just totally hits the wall above 4500rpm, CAI or not... it's the fact that the valves won't promote the volumetric effieicncy that the 1.8 posesses.

sorry kiddo... but the intake won't help that much. If I were you I'd consider just getting a "real" car. my 2.
I put an intake on my 1.8. it's meant to run at high rpm. or did you forget what I drove? I know it won't help me much on a stock engine but if my fawking turbo ever fawking shows up, I won't have a stock engine. I seriously hope this wasn't aimed at me Greg.

Oh and I'm looking at getting a second car, a 1987 Camaro IROC Z Z28. It's beautiful black with power windows/locks and a grey leather interior. He was one mod away from a ram air hood set up. 100 dollar intake box. If I can get it I'll get it dyno'd and see what kind of torque it puts down.
 

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I guess the bottom line of what I'm saying is that the 1.9L tends to starve at higher rpms. It's just the nature of the engine. Go ahead and put an intake on, but the bottleneck is still the engine itself.

spiderman:
the K&N filter will bolt right up to the RX-7 VAF. However, the RX-7 VAF is like a rectangle rather than a square.
 

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I guess the bottom line of what I'm saying is that the 1.9L tends to starve at higher rpms. It's just the nature of the engine. Go ahead and put an intake on, but the bottleneck is still the engine itself.
eh? how do you figure that? The head, intake manifold, and intake itself are what effect the airflow into and out of an engine. All very easily changed. I'm guessing the head doesn't flow that bad. It wouldn't make a good econobox that way either. At most a port/polish would fix that and I've never heard of that being the case. Doesn't mean it isn't just that I've never heard of it.
 

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egtdude said:
I'm guessing the head doesn't flow that bad. It wouldn't make a good econobox that way either.
But the 1.9L can get away with it... the intake runners promote the low end, low rpm torque that economy cars use and neglect the top end of the engine. That's what I've been trying to say all along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
wait...now i'm lost. a port and polish would HURT the fuel economy? how so??? When you polish stuff you give it a better VE and it will flow better, that means the engine is straining less to pull, burn and push the same amount of air.

I'm gonna be port n polishing my head/intake when i can. That will not only help fuel economy, but it will help performance.

Damn...i'm so friggin bored. :x
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
pretty much right on it 95. think about some ice on the ground that was broken and then refroze, it's all jagged and bumpy. take that same ice and smooth it over and that's pretty much what you do. In the simplest way to explain it.
 
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