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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is my first 97 ford escort wagon LX and my tranny pan has crusted and rusted to the point where i can see fluid seeping, but not dripping yet, (looks like the metal is wet...) We dont know where or how to get a replacement.. can anyone help with DIY to fix, or replacements (Maybe other models fit super close?) Help is appreciated where ive come to the point of almost giving up on her (WITH ONLY 38k on her ) Looking at part # F1CZ 7A194-A
I cannot find a replacement as they are discontinued and EBAY isn't helping... No local scrappers here have escorts.. Is there another car that uses the same oil pan that I can get away with using??? Any generic brands or cars will have this part? It’s started seeping through the metal and I’m having a nervous breakdown on what to do
Tire Automotive tire Helmet Wood Motor vehicle
 

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Since yours is a 97, its pan for the automatic tranny (F4EAT) is the same as all 2nd LX escorts from 1991 through 1997. I have had a coupe of my escorts that needed their pan bolts to be retorqued after a couple of years, due to squishing of the pan gasket - to the point where it would leave a small puddle whenever parked on pavement - but none have rusted through. A tightening (but not an overtightening) of the bolts was done. This is definitely a place where use of a torque wrench is important. I have two torque wrenches; one reading in ft-lbs but while its adjustable, I am not confident it would be very accurate at the extreme low end of that adjustment. So I use my other torque wrench, which is smaller and its adjustment ring reads in lbs-inches. The spec for those 19 pan bolts is 69-95 lb-in, or between 5 and 8 lbs-ft.
For the initial torquing I use about 80 lb-inches, and use the higher setting a day or two later. Dont ovetorque - use a new pan gasket and torque the bolts up properly. Since some of the bolts are very hard to reach due to that front to rear crossmember that runs below the bell housing and under the tranny pan, I would advise either taking that crossmember off - which will require supporting the engine's oil pan with a jack and dealing with some very rusted bolts supporting the crossmember; or jacking up the transmission from the bottom of the bell-housing after undoing the bolts holding the front motor mount (near the radiator) to gain an inch or so of access to the little bolts.
I have rebuilt several of theF4EAT transmissions, and found a few stripped or cross threaded bolts on each tranny. I fixed all of them using helicoil type inserts.
That F1CZ part number prefix means that part was first used on model year 1991 escorts.
Another part of the transmission that can begin to leak, is the oil pump housing, located at the driver's side end of the transmission. And its made of cast iron. With each escort transmission that I rebuilt, i cleaned off that cast iron item, and after drying in the sun, I put rustoleum primer on it, followed by a double coating of glass black paint - also allowed to dry in the sun. From time to time some of our members have had the pump housing begin to leak, and had to either get a rebuilt pump housing (as from ebay) or get a rebuilt transmission. Or to scrap the car.
I live in Virginia, which uses road salt sometimes in winters.
Some of my Friends who live in Minnesota and like a car, have the necessity of putting the car in their garage - for six months of the year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since yours is a 97, its pan for the automatic tranny (F4EAT) is the same as all 2nd LX escorts from 1991 through 1997. I have had a coupe of my escorts that needed their pan bolts to be retorqued after a couple of years, due to squishing of the pan gasket - to the point where it would leave a small puddle whenever parked on pavement - but none have rusted through. A tightening (but not an overtightening) of the bolts was done. This is definitely a place where use of a torque wrench is important. I have two torque wrenches; one reading in ft-lbs but while its adjustable, I am not confident it would be very accurate at the extreme low end of that adjustment. So I use my other torque wrench, which is smaller and its adjustment ring reads in lbs-inches. The spec for those 19 pan bolts is 69-95 lb-in, or between 5 and 8 lbs-ft.
For the initial torquing I use about 80 lb-inches, and use the higher setting a day or two later. Dont ovetorque - use a new pan gasket and torque the bolts up properly. Since some of the bolts are very hard to reach due to that front to rear crossmember that runs below the bell housing and under the tranny pan, I would advise either taking that crossmember off - which will require supporting the engine's oil pan with a jack and dealing with some very rusted bolts supporting the crossmember; or jacking up the transmission from the bottom of the bell-housing after undoing the bolts holding the front motor mount (near the radiator) to gain an inch or so of access to the little bolts.
I have rebuilt several of theF4EAT transmissions, and found a few stripped or cross threaded bolts on each tranny. I fixed all of them using helicoil type inserts.
That F1CZ part number prefix means that part was first used on model year 1991 escorts.
Another part of the transmission that can begin to leak, is the oil pump housing, located at the driver's side end of the transmission. And its made of cast iron. With each escort transmission that I rebuilt, i cleaned off that cast iron item, and after drying in the sun, I put rustoleum primer on it, followed by a double coating of glass black paint - also allowed to dry in the sun. From time to time some of our members have had the pump housing begin to leak, and had to either get a rebuilt pump housing (as from ebay) or get a rebuilt transmission. Or to scrap the car.
I live in Virginia, which uses road salt sometimes in winters.
Some of my Friends who live in Minnesota and like a car, have the necessity of putting the car in their garage - for six months of the year.
Here in New England the salt we use on our roads in the winter does a lot of damage. The pan is old, and the rust is soft. We are afraid to remove it in fear of not finding a replacement if we poke a hole in it. The rust is soft due to the oil leaking through. I don’t think it needs tightening, it needs replaced or sealed somehow. If I hit a rock or bump I feel it’ll cave in. It’s not leaking on the pavement, just soaked through the crusty rust off the pan. Oily rust has made it pretty soft to where I want to replace it. I appreciate your response and will keep it in mind.
 

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Try car-part.com

I was able to find engine oil pans for a 97 around you, I know you need the transmission pan but searching it didn’t provide results. You can email the yards or call them and they should be able to send you a pan

 

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Try car-part.com

I was able to find engine oil pans for a 97 around you, I know you need the transmission pan but searching it didn’t provide results. You can email the yards or call them and they should be able to send you a pan

They should be buying one from someplace where cars don't rust.

I also wonder what other rust issues this vehicle has.
 

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My ‘97 wagon did the same thing, even though it was a stick shift. I searched and searched to no avail.
I found one on www.row52.com at a yard in Utah and paid someone on that site $25 to pick it for me and ship it to me in PA.
 

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Way out of my wheelhouse, but could this pan be 3D printed? The A/T shouldn't get over 300 degrees F, theoretically I feel like there is a 3D printer filament polymer out there up to the task.
 

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It's a Subaru made trans. They were in the Outback until 98. Called 4eat. Also in late 80 - 90's Ford Probes with 1.9 liter.

If you have a mig welder, you can temporary fix that bad of a pan. Weld from the inside and place an old brake rotor underneath as a heat sink and to help pool the weld.

Last year I did 4 or 5 holes in a marine oil pan, still holding.
 

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It's a Subaru made trans. They were in the Outback until 98. Called 4eat. Also in late 80 - 90's Ford Probes with 1.9 liter.

If you have a mig welder, you can temporary fix that bad of a pan. Weld from the inside and place an old brake rotor underneath as a heat sink and to help pool the weld.

Last year I did 4 or 5 holes in a marine oil pan, still holding.
Um, not really. The version in the Escort is made by Mazda and Jatco and called an F-4EAT. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_F-4EAT_transmission
 
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Thanks for correcting me. I over simplified my post.
The Subaru is indeed a modified version of the Jatco. They changed bellhousing and other things for AWD, but my comment was to suggest the pan could be interchangeable.
It was also a 2.0 for the Probe, not 1.9 as I incorrectly stated.

Your wiki link shows a nice list of applications that could help the OP. find a used one at boneyard or eBay.
 

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This is my first 97 ford escort wagon LX and my tranny pan has crusted and rusted to the point where i can see fluid seeping, but not dripping yet, (looks like the metal is wet...) We dont know where or how to get a replacement.. can anyone help with DIY to fix, or replacements (Maybe other models fit super close?) Help is appreciated where ive come to the point of almost giving up on her (WITH ONLY 38k on her ) Looking at part # F1CZ 7A194-A
I cannot find a replacement as they are discontinued and EBAY isn't helping... No local scrappers here have escorts.. Is there another car that uses the same oil pan that I can get away with using??? Any generic brands or cars will have this part? It’s started seeping through the metal and I’m having a nervous breakdown on what to do View attachment 54769
The pan on my '93 5 speed is cast aluminum. Anybody here know if they'll retrofit? Also, have you checked RockAuto?
 

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The pan on my '93 5 speed is cast aluminum. Anybody here know if they'll retrofit? Also, have you checked RockAuto?
The 5 speed manual doesn't have pan.
 
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