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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 91 EGT and when I come to a stop, my idle stops at 1000 rpm for about 3-5 seconds before falling to normal rpm. I don´t remeber this happening before. the tps was just just replaced yesterday. Is this the way it should be? It might be normal and I just don´t remember seeing this before.
 

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-Did you get the memo about the TPS reports?-

I´ve heard there´s an adjustable throttle damper on the GT. Hopefully someone else has some better insight.

My LX does this too.. and it drive me nuts.. kills the braking throttle response. I´ve heard that the Focus is designed to do this same thing as some emissions function, I hope that isn´t the case on the LX :-|

-I´ll have someone send you that memo, okay-
 

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The 1.8L escort DOES have an adjustable throttle. Its located right on the TB, now I wouldn´t go messin around with it just in case. Unless of course you are a professional. ;-)
 

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Did they calibrated the darn thing when they put it on? Haynes manuals give the procedure for calibrating them once you install them.
 

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As soon as I find my Haynes I´m gonna check that out. I did install a new TPS about 5 years ago (one of 4 things to break on this car in 185k miles :-0), and I don´t believe I calibrated it.
 

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<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%>[TR][TD]Quote:

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25-04-2003 at 13:01, Whig-It wrote:
well, my car is worse, lol it starts and idles at 2000, and them drops to maby 1000, if i am lucky, lol
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when it´s cold and you start it up, it was built to idle high until it gets warmed up. then it drops below 1000 usually.
 

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Yes, the TPS can be calibrated using a volt/ohm meter. The TPS is simply a variable resistor, and depending on the angle of rotation, the resistance changes. Such sensor are very sensitive to poor soldering and connection problems, because such things will increase the resistance "seen" by the ECU, and will give a false reading.
This is basically what that bogus 20 HP RESISTOR MOD!!! you see on ebay does, only with the IAT sensor.

Anyway, I´ve got a 91GT, and you can adjust this very eaisly. The throttle pulley hits a little rubber pad which is damped by a small unit that looks a little like a hat. The throttle pulley hits this rubber thing with a little screw that you can adjust, just make sure you loctite the screw so your setting sticks.

If you want to kill the throttle more when you dead pedal it, you should turn this screw CW (in) so it will hit the rubber pad when the throttle has rotated MORE, and the butterfly valve is more closed. This will drop your rpm to idle speed faster.

The reason why mazda did this was to keep the momentum of the engine up during shifting... it´s a thing called a dashpot, which is a fancy name for a buffer.

Be careful when adjusting though, because if you make it so you dead throttle it too much, you will kill not only the momentum of the engine and the intake air, but you will also likely reverse the power transfer back to the wheels, which could potentially send you into a skid if you´re really pushing the car to the limit of the tires.

Also, you may want to check the ignition module. Mine is going bad and it´s very likely that yours is too. It is common to have an rpm drop, plateau for about 3 seconds, then drop more and fluctuate for another 5-10 seconds before settling out at idle speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok, this happens after warm-up. It idles at about 700-750rpm after warm-up. As i drive it run fine, then if I stop it drops to 1000 rpm for 3-5 seconds and then drops to the 700-750 range. Today going to work it did exactly that then after about 30 minutes of driving it was only dropping to 1100-1200 rpm and staying there. I noticed it is running alot cooler (on my gauge) than normal. (The tps was set by the manual)
 
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