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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My timing belt went driving down the road and left me stranded. My EGT has 113k on her... I am going to replace all belts on her now... I have given her a tuneup about a year ago... is there anything else I should do or replace at this time witht this many miles on her? LMK
 

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Careful man, when my Timing belt went at like 73000 miles, I had to replace 2 of my 16 valves and grind my heads down to the lowest possible specs. Maybe you got lucky. who knows. take it to a good shop, I got charged 1000 dollars and it was worth 2 weeks of not having a car. If i knew then what i know now, I´d have done some searching for a new head and possibly get some performance rebuilding done.
 

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It has been my understanding for years that virgin (non-rebuilt) BP is a non-interference design. For that matter, yours is the first I have ever heard of to have crashed some valves. Before I read your post, I would have advised him not to sweat it, and let them toss a new set of belts on it and keep on going. With your particular experience in mind, it would not be a bad idea to confirm that there is no internal damage, before they get much farther.

Marcus
 

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I blew my timing belt the weekend before New Years this past December. I was in the town of Salome AZ, about 77miles west of where any people really live. I was stranded in the AZ desert for 4 days before getting out of there. I had 82k miles on the Escort then.

You´re supposed to replace the belt every 60k so I consider myself lucky to make it so far.

Yes the BP is NON INTERFERENCE. One of the reasons I would take a Mazda BP over any Honda, Mitsubishi, Dodge, Chrysler, or Toyota Sport Compact.

However, I know my motor isn´t running as strong as it used to before I blew the belt. I wouldnt´ be suprised if the head was stressed during the blowout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BTW... This is the original timing belt to my knowledge... the car had 57k (1 previous owner) so I guess I had this coming. I just learned today that belts are suppose to be changed every 60K, I thought 100K. Anyway, How do I check for internal damage? My old man told me the valves might burn up... but how do i check? I cant take it to the shop, I am flat broke cause of some probs with the house and I like to do the work myself if possible.
 

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listen if you dont have the money to get it fixed, just toss a new belt on there and TRUST ME, its a non interferance motor. I can´t tell you how many people have tried to tell me otherwise.

Anyhow, when you get the cash just buy a new head and have it ported, polished. New valves, seals, and cams and then just swap them. You´ll be more effective with your money that way.
 

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I concur it is clearance. When my belt stripped a few teeth I got lucky and coasted to my steet(who said heavy right foot?) I spent a week doing the job in the evenings. Hands barely fit down there! Had a friend at a Mazda dealer sell me a belt for his discount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanx for your input guys.... it will be a few weeks b4 I can get to it as I have work and school and work on the house to do that comes first. Im ok for the time being, I have an 01 Stratus R/T in my garage with under 3000 on her.... I just completed a tour in Sicily and didnt get to drive her much. Ill let you all know how it goes.
 

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Hey, Blade. If you, seriously, think that your car did not run as well, have you confirmed the cam timing? Is is possible that the mechanic got one cam off by a tooth? If the intake timing were retarded, that would make a significant difference. I believe the car will run with the belt one tooth off.

Just a thought.

Oh, yeah, absolutely lovin´ my suspension setup.

Marcus
 

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You should also replace the cam oil seals while your at it. and check to make sure the belt tensioner and idler bearings spin freely. if not then replace them too.here are some Ford part numbers and estimated prices.

Tensioner . E9JY6K254A $61.38
Idler Pulley E9JY6M250A $75.47
Timing Belt F3CZ6268A $70.44
Valve Cover Gasket F4CZ6584A $35.62
Cam Seal F32Z6700B $8.47 x2
Water Pump E9JY8501B $110.66
 

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No, I dont think it was the timing. Besides Its hard to tell with my scort. I blew the timing belt down at 1k over sea level, and I had been at sea level for a week, then I drove back up the hill here to 5500´. The altitude makes everything a little weird. And even now I´m forcing the timing to be retarded a little bit so I dont have any problems with boost.

Almost forgot, after the turbo is all in and I have the interior cleaned up. I´m buying a new motor. I want to port and polish the head (my friend has a flow bench). re-do and upgrade the valves, seals, springs, etc. New cams. I want a cam that has a little more duration on the exhaust side. I´m aiming for a VE of 95-98%

My friend Rob wants to make a custom sheet metal intake too. Also with higher flow characteristics.

I think we´re aiming for the bottom end: 4" stroke, bored .03 over. Try to get the displacement somewhere between 2.5-3.0L. Rob knows a company that can make the crank, rods and pistons.

Its probably going to take me a year or two to get it all together. I´m guessing its going to cost about $6-7k and thats with doing alot of the work ourselves and getting hooked up by this company.

well the ultimate goal is to go from 127hp to about 350hp. And 114ft-lbs to about 300ft-lbs.
_________________

Jason Blade
93´ Escort GT (Special SLO model)

[ Edited by TheBlade On Date 11-05-2002 ]

[ Edited by TheBlade On Date 11-05-2002 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the parts ingo ocorzo. Appreciate it.

Uh, ok... So I have a crank and 2 cams and a waterpump running on the timing belt. It has been a while since I have set timing, but that was on my 75´ AMC Hornet (man I loved that car, awsome car) and I had to use a timing light. So how do I align the cams up to the crank?

Also one more Q, what is BP?
 

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Thats the name of the series of Escort GT engines. the 1.8L 2nd gen is called the BP Series engine. like the Civic SI is the D16A or B16A.
I noticed it on the engine itself, if i remember correctly it says "BP" on the intake/exhaust head on the outside front of the engine somewhere.
 

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Technically our GT motor is the Mazda BPD8 BP series, D (9.0:1) NonTurbo, 8 for 1.8L

The BPT8 is the GTX motor (8.2:1) Compression ratio. and the BPT8 GTR is the GTR motor with the same compression ratio, just different rods and pistons.

The entire BP series motor is Astonishingly well engineered.

BP´s can be found in Protege´s, 323´s, MX3´s, EscortGT´s might be one or two more cars too.

Orlando...yeah I know, but I want that much power, with room to grow. I´m almost positive the biggest limiting factor isn´t the motor at all...its the drivetrain. Too bad the aftermarket support for drivetrain doesn´t really exist, and for what can be custom made its WAY too expensive. I know my friend Rob wants to go crazy with my EGT, but I think I want to just get it turbo´d to 14psi, then do interior and exterior. Besides its only going to end up being my daily commute vehicle. The real project car i want to make is a replica of a 67 Cobra with a twin turbo´d 427. However I would be happy finding a kit with a chevy 350, ford 351, or 302. Any of them would be incredible turbocharged. Just think V8 rumble with a BOV!!!
 
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