Engine - Timing belt time | Ford Escort Owners Association (FEOA)

Engine Timing belt time

Discussion in '2nd Gen 1991-1996 1.9L SOHC' started by bogateer, Jul 13, 2015.

  1. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    About to undertake the dreaded timing belt change. I say dreaded as every time I work on this beast ('91 LX) it's like wrestling a steel alligator. Regardless....I trust my intolerance of frustration more than the competance of the local professionals...not to mention the fact I don't have the $300+ anyone else wants to do it. A few questions about the process:

    1. What diameter is the crank pulley or whatever it is one holds to remove/fasten the crank bolt...so I can get a strap wrench of the correct size? I saw a video where they used an impact wrench to get the bolt off...but then also read where someone broke the bolt off upon installation (using an impact wrench). Perhaps a torque-limiting stick would prevent this...but I want to try to avoid the possibility to begin with and try PB Blaster, strap wrench, and breaker -bar first....but I've been unable to find out how large a strap wrench is required. I read that tightening upon reinstallation is the difficult part and that someone used a screwdriver to jam against the timing belt gear while re-torquing. Not having the best of luck with things this makes me nervous as it sounds like a good way to break a tooth. I guess if I get desparate and the strap wrench doesn't work I can try it before resorting to an impact wrench with a torque-limiting stick. If I've missed something please let me know. FWIW...the video I watched made this all look easy...but things never go that well for me.

    2. For the water pump (gonna replace that too while I'm in there). Does one use sealant, a gasket (which I have), or both? If one or the other...which is the better choice...or does it not matter (I'll just flip a coin)?

    3. Again for the water pump. Stupid question (sorry)....I've read that getting one of the hoses back on is a real bear. Is it not possible to put the offending hose (or both) on the pump first, install the pump, then attach it (them) at the other end(s)? I forget which hose was the supposedly difflcult one.

    4. Finally, a question unrelated to the timing belt...well sort of. The a/c hasn't worked in a VERY long time. Is it possible to just buy the accessory belt for non-a/c Escorts and bypass the compressor? This would allow me to remove the hoses which just get in the way and, as well, not worry about the compressor seizing at some point. I'm not sure if the compressor would have to come out entirely or just its pulley to make room or if it would just be a "swap and go". The dang hose is in the way of the dipstick and right where all the work for the timing belt is.

    I'm working out on the street so I'm trying to account for as many possibilities as I can and do this as quickly and smoothly as possible...so the neighbors don't complain.

    Thanks for you help!

    PS One more question...upon re-installation of the crank bolt....anti-seize it, blue-locktite it, or leave it dry and call it good? I may see about finding an new bolt just to make the 120,000 mile timing belt change less uncertain.
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  2. steven62721

    steven62721 New Member

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    Hi. Am not a mechanic but something like hapend to me a few months ago.
    I have a 94 lx 1.9 ..

    Don't now wat motor u have its almost the same on all motors

    The recommendation is that wen u replace the time belt u should have the water pump replace and the tensioner. But if the water pump is pumping fine it ok not to replace. But again in the future u will need to replace it. the tensioner it's good to replace because it get sagy and won't get the tension. for the bolt on the biline. If u put to much power it will get damage. I recomendaría to use a low impact gun mine have 200 foot pounds of torque air impact gun have between 500 and 900 or more. To remove a damage bolt use a impact twist socket .....
    Don't do pressure on the bolt of the timing belt cover it will never go back at it was and it will stinks as burned rubber for months
    Oh remember your time to make sure the timing is correct if not u can interior part so it will be more work and money


    This was mine
    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SCH-I545L using Tapatalk
  3. EscorGo

    EscorGo FEOA Donator

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  4. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    I've used a Harbor Freight electric impact multiple times on my Escorts for removing/replacing the crank bolt without a problem, just don't continue to hammer on it while tightening. You do not need to use a sealant on the water pump gasket, I never do, it just adds to the clean up next time you have to change the water pump. The bottom radiator hose is a pain to get back on the water pump, but it can be done. I guess it would be possible to take the hose off the radiator, put it on the pump first and re-route it back to the connection on the bottom of the radiator, but I'm not sure how much easier it would be trying to get the hose back in the correct position.
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  5. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    Thanks for your input! My LX has the 1.9L. I only have 65,000 miles on it...but it's a '91. It would be my luck to not change the water pump and have it go shortly thereafter....so while I'm in there I'm going to replace it...I've already got a spare pump.
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  6. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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  7. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    Thanks for your input. I'm planning on replacing the radiator at the same time...so that might make the hose installation a bit easier. It sounds like the bolt tightening is a problem if you use too powerful an impact wrench....so I'll either try holding the crank and using a torque wrench...or getting a torque-limiting stick for an impact wrench. It would be my luck to get the one Harbor Freight impact wrench that puts out 350 ft-lbs of torque. Thanks again.
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  8. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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  9. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    Thanks. From the reviews I've read of Harbor Freight products lately it's really hit or miss. I'm just afraid the stuff now is not of the same quality it was 10 or 15 years ago. I'd probably spring for the extra $$$ to get a DeWalt if I'm gonna buy one...but I might be able to borrow one locally. I'll probably get a torque-limiting stick just to be safe. Thanks for your input.
  10. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    I said "DeWalt"....but I think the one I'm gonna go with is the Kobalt. I've read decent reviews on it and it's less expensive than the DeWalt. Can get pretty decent deals on them from eBay.
  11. EscorGo

    EscorGo FEOA Donator

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    I never see Kobalt rated in any of the journals I read. DeWalt always gets high value marks. You can pay more for other brands that do things better, but unless you're a pro and it's your livelihood, DeWalt is a good choice.
  12. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    Hey thanks for the feedback. Yeah...if I can afford it I'll probably end up springing for the DeWalt after all. I don't mind spending extra for good quality tools if they'll last. Not sure how much I'll end up using an impact wrench...but you never know. I rotate in and out of snow tires on two vehicles every six months so it may actually see quite a bit of use. And the torque-limiting stick I'd get to do the lug nuts on my Jeep I think is the same value for the Escort crank bolt. I think my original thinking was that the Kobalt seemed to have good feedback and it was an 8-amp wrench and had more torque than the DeWalt....but I guess at some point enough is enough and I'd rather have the quality vs. a little extra torque as at some point you just start breaking things.
  13. tonyjfalcon1

    tonyjfalcon1 FEOA Member

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    This is what I used the last 3 TB's I did. Works great and very handy for quick roadside tyre changes. Only $22 and way stronger than you'd expect

    http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html

    I also leave the tb cover off. Makes the next change way faster and super easy to diagnose any issues with the TB and TB tension-er but then again I do 30,000 miles a year so the job comes up every 2 years if you go with Ford recommendation of 60,000 miles.

    I also only use NOS Ford OEM for TB and TB tensioner.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-Ti...Ford|Model:Escort&hash=item35de9e7c57&vxp=mtr

    cheers and good luck....
  14. bogateer

    bogateer FEOA Member

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    Hey thanks! I was fortunate enough to find NOS Motorcraft Timing Belt, Tensioner, and Water Pump on eBay. Do you use that impact wrench to tighten the crank bolt as well...or just for removal? It sounds like holding the crank to tighten the bolt is the tricky part. I read of one case where the person broke the bolt using an impact wrench to re-install it. If I go that route I will use a torque-limiting stick. As well...do you use and anti-seize or blue loctite on the crank bolt?

    Thanks again!
  15. FordMan59

    FordMan59 FEOA Member

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    I never use anything on the crank bolt (anti seize, loctite). Just torque it down.
  16. ShakeZilla19

    ShakeZilla19 My name is ^^^

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    It is pretty easy to hold the crank with a manual. I don't think you mentioned what trans this has. To remove the crank bolt, you'll need an assistant, to get inside and put the trans in reverse. They will then stand on the break. Tightening is the same process except the trans needs to be in 5th.

    If you have an auto. The process is more involved but an impact is not required. First you remove the access cover to the flexplate. Then you pry on one of the flexplate's teeth
  17. Supersedona

    Supersedona FEOA Member

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    As far as the electric guns go, I have had my HF gun for almost 10 yrs and dad has had his another 5 yrs before that. Mine has been perfect the whole time and his had a bad trigger that he rewired out of the box and been good since. Some things I would not reccomend from them, but that was a good one.

    Is there any red flags to uncovering the timing belt(as one suggested leaving it naked)? Granted they don't go bad all that often.
  18. EscorGo

    EscorGo FEOA Donator

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    I would not do it. Exposing the pulley and belt is just plain dangerous to you and anyone else who works on your engine. A spinning pulley doesn't care what gets in it's path. It will rip clothes, hair, fingers and anything else that gets between its teeth and belt.
    Fan shrouds and pulley/belt covers are not for looks.

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