[Torito]

Trying to replace the timeing belt on an ´89. Have accessories loose and belts off. Timing cover is off. Looks like I will need to remove engine mount to loosen bolts holding the belt tensioner in place. Haynes manual says to remove the crankshaft pully. Yeah, right. Can anyone tell me how to get the crankshaft pully off? There is only about 1/2 inch clearance between the pully and the body. I can´t even get a finger in there to feel what size bolt or bolts are holding it. Guy at the Ford garage would not let me talk to a mechanic. He just said that those guys have all the special tools. They would be happy to change the belt for about $500. I don´t think so. I suspect that soneone other than a Ford garage with "all the special tools" has changed these before. I would appreciate any help anyone can give me.

 

[CosworthWannabe2]

Here´s how I found to be the easiest get a jack an a chunk of wood and put it under the edge of the oil pan. Undo the front engine mount and lower the motor down as far as it will go and just keep the jack there so the motor is resting on it. There will be a bit of metal still blocking the way just bend it back to gain access. Don´t worry it´s not structural and can be bent back, I actually cut a slice right ou for future thinking. This will give you tons of room. There are no special tools needed except for maybe a crank pulley puller which you can borrow from most auto parts places. If you have problems getting the bolt off get a breaker bar put it on the nut, take the igniton coil wire off the ignition coil, and just give the motor a quick start with the ignition. Just make sure you put the bar tilting to the ground to the front of the car, this should be a last resort.

 

[Pimp_scort_89_GT]

I just had to replace mine because it brok. Be glad you are doing it before it is to late. not too sure but I think I bent a valve or two. The lowering part as described in the manual didn´t work too well for me. I ended up taking the whole front mount off and going up instead of down with the front of the engine. I had enough room to fit a wrench in there after I jacked it up a few inches. Mine barely had any torque on the crank pully bolt, so it came right off. I was acctually kind of freaked out by how easy it was to lossen. Anyway, that should work if the lowering doesn´t.

 

[Torito]

My belt didn´t break, but it is still dead. The kevlar belts seem to hold up, but the 13 year old rubber teeth stripped. I am hoping that I have the notched pistons for valve clearance. I really appreciate the help from you guys. I will give it a try as soon as I have time. Thanks a lot.

 

[Pimp_scort_89_GT]

If you hav an LX, you may not have a problem ig the belt breaks since they used flat pistons. I could have swore I read somewhere that the 1.9 was a non interference engine. But I´m pretty sure the HO engine in the GT is not. I heard a lot of clatter when that belt threw.

 

[TheBlade]

if you have any 2G GT you WILL be fine. LX´s ahhhh sure I guess, sorry dont really know. But I´m pretty sure if you have 2.0L Single or Double you´re screwed.

 

[CosworthWannabe2]

Both 1.9 first gen motors are interference. Ask me how I know? Ummmmmmm nevermind.

 

[Torito]

OK, here is how it worked out. Was able to get a socket on crankshaft nut with engine either up or down. I found up to work better for me. That way I was able to have the breaker bar up on top and more accessible. Had to use 3/8" drive socket and bar, 1/2" would not go. Used a large screw driver on the timing belt drive sprocket to lock the crank. Could not break the nut loose with the little 3/8 breaker, but a piece of pipe on the handle cured that. Only problem I had was with one of the bolts that hold the belt tensioner. The rear bolt is almost hidden by part of the motor mount casting. Used a CHEAP 3/8 drive 10mm socket. Ground down the outside diameter of the drive end until it would clear. Once I knew what I was doing, this was a lot easier than I had expected. Thanks again to all you guys who helped. This is an ´89 LX and there was no valve damage. For anyone who has an older Escort, you might want to change the belt regardless of miles. I inherited this one with 39,000. It had only 45,000 when it let go. The belt did not break (Kevlar is good stuff), but the old rubber teeth stripped at the crankshaft sprocket.

 

[Pimp_scort_89_GT]

Good advice. If you ave even a hint of an idea that your belt might be worn out change it. I am glad you got it to work.

 

[pballer98c]

I have an 88 escort gt and the timing belt went out last month at 85,000 miles. I did´nt want to drop or raise the engine so what i did to get that 1 damn pulley off was: I took off the front passenger side wheel. Got out 1 hell of a drill and circle cutter and cut a hole through the metal of the car. Took about 30 minutes to drill then hole and the whole belt change from start to finish took only a few hours. later dudes

 

[pballer98c]

I have an 88 escort gt and the timing belt went out last month at 85,000 miles. I did´nt want to drop or raise the engine so what i did to get that 1 damn pulley off was: I took off the front passenger side wheel. Got out 1 hell of a drill and circle cutter and cut a hole through the metal of the car. Took about 30 minutes to drill then hole and the whole belt change from start to finish took only a few hours. later dudes

 

[TheBlade]

When my belt snapped out about 4 days from home once, the shop I was at had to take th entires RF fender out. All the plastic splash gaurds underneath had to be removed too.

I just kind of feel like, Waterpumps, Timing Belts, and Alternators on the 1.8L are so hard to get to...you might as well take it to a shop and enjoy your 400 bucks in labor to laugh at the mechanics cussing as they try to do it.