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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought an 86 escort L 2bbl carb 1.9L 4 spd. $300 and it was mine just needed to something to get me to and from work and to keep as my daily driver while I save up for a motor for my 89 MR2. anyway the escort has 137,xxx with $800 in repairs and replacement parts (I have all the receipts from the guy) heres the list: heater core,radiator,thermostat,igniter something can't remember, brake master cylinder,brake booster, brake lines, front brakes, and some more stuff can't really remember. The point is it ticks in the engine bay like the valves are ticking. how long do you think the motor has left and if it can be fixed cheaply. also the tach doesn't work and the radio doesn't work-checked fuse but still won't work. I don't have a haynes repair book and I've never worked on a ford before. please help
 

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hmm.... I'm no expert on the first gens, do they have hydraulic lifters / lash adjusters? Was the car sitting for a long time before you bought it? Sometimes the lifters will bleed down, and become noisy, or they could be collapsed. Usually the problem goes away after a few minutes at the most of idling/running, as they get pumped back up.



good luck!! Hopefully some of the 1G gurus will give you a bit more helpful info.


--sarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah it has hydraulic lifters and it keeps making the noise the whole time I drive it it gets louder with more acceleration. I was talking to a friend(doesn't really know fords just like me) and he was thinking the same thing.
 

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if it makes any difference to you, ive had 2 1st gens, and neither were carbed though...i had a 89 GT which has a 1.9 HO...and i had an 89 LX with the 1.9L CFI...and both had a nasty lifter tick, and my mechanic, (which i didnt use often did it myself) said to leave it, my 89 LX had 67k on the dial and died due the brake line popping, my GT has an electrical faliure somewhere causing it not to run properly...or that much at all. The GT on the otherhand had 149k and well its still runnin when it runs with the tick. so id give you a good 25-35k more with no big problems.
 

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I don't know the 1st gen very weel either, but you can live with lifter tick for quite some time. On the other hand, valve lifters are very easy to replace and it's not very invasive surgery; it's just that they're expensive. For a 1st gen, it may be hard to find anyone still carrying lifters. I'd say you could replace the 2nd gen valve lifters in 20-30 minutes.
 

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It's a cam issue in addition to the lifters. Replacing the lifters won't help without replacing the cam.

Def put some heavier oil in it IF your climate will allow for it. In any case it will last for many more miles like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the help. man over on the mr2 forum hardly anyone helps me out only bill strong :lol: anyway I'm in matthews, NC and the temperature is spastic down here like the other day it was about 40 and today it was a nice 68 but when it really gets cold it gets to be about 20-35 through winter so what would be the best for it?? and earlier today I replaced the heater hose, I guess thats what its called, ( it connects to the firewall to the heater core) so know it doesn't leak too much coolant. it is still leaking from this other hose that has a piece of half circle metal thing that sits basically on top of the down pipe, that metal part is corroded and flaking apart which hangs down beside the heater hose. and I didn't have time to really check it and make sure it was running right so I went ahead to work temp guage didn't really do anything then slowly went all the way to hot. but I know the engine wasn't hot so I kept going to work when I got there I looked underneath and oil dripped a puddle somewhere in the middle of the engine bay on the ground and the puddle was about 2 1/2" in diameter. it stopped after a min. but why did it do this? it didn't leak oil yesterday. OH and STILL NO HEAT!!!?????????????? why?? its a new heater core!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AAAAARRRRRGGGGGGHHHH
 

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Pull the valve head apart and take out the lifters. Soak those bitches in kerosene for a while, then put em back in oil and pump them to remove any air bubbles.

When you get em installed again, check to make sure your tolerances are okay with a feeler gauge.

The heatercore could be clogged. It's very possible. If this is the case, the cooling system bypasses it since it's in parallel with the rest of the system.
 

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Replacing the lifters won't help unless you replace the cam. The cam and lifters have worn together. This is a known issue on these cars, the oil holes on the cam get clogged.
 

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Thanks Sarge! <blushing>

Yes, you need to buy a book, at least one. Look for the real shop manual on ebay, you can pick up a Haynes/Chiltons in a local parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I haven't done anything yet but I talked to another friend of mine (has a 78 Ford F-150 Ranger XLT with a 76 cougar motor in it) about the temperature gauge and heat problem and he said first the water pump is going bad and wll go out anyday now so I kept explaining the situation and then he said the thermostat might not be working so I'm gonna just go buy another one tomorrow and change it if that doesn't work then water pump it is AND if THAT doesn't work then I guess I'm forced to put another heater core in there DAMMIT. but on another note (my shocks are blown to hell, very bouncy) I was coming home from work today and I just opened it up hit 75 didn't even notice til I saw the speedo! it felt like I was doing 40. its such a smooth ride compared to my MR2, in that you know exactly what speed you're going and then some!!
 

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Owners or shop manual? Two different things. The shop manual is a two book set, full size and thick. Owners manual, 20-30 pages and fits in the glove box.
 

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i would do as suggested and soak the lifters in kerosene to clear out any clogs and make sure you put the lifters back in exactly how they came out, even in the same bores that you took them out of.

i dunno if the first gens had them but, see if the heater control valve is malfunctioning.. that could be your lack of heat problem. trust me, if the water pump were going bad, assuming the heater core/valve work, you would get heat like a nuclear reactor went critical under the hood.
 
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