Discussion in '3rd Gen 1997-2002 2.0L SOHC' started by F-16Wrench, Apr 17, 2007.
The intake manifold already uses a phenolic type spacer... Take a closer look at it
I say again, you have a voice and opinion but you are stating nothing factualy usewd on an Escort. So dont bash me again you dip shit.
You have an idea, I have an idea, Im gonna pay for mine out of my pocket to see how it works. I wanna see pics of your phenolic spacers there idea boy!!!!!!
my pics will be up in this post in a week or so, finishing my NOS install tonight, BIATCH!!
so get ur phenolic spacers made quickly, what, wait, your not going to use them!, why not.. can I ask?!? btw, aviation jobs pay real good money, so why are you on an Escort site??????????????????
i have 20 million dollars in my ash tray of my car, im still driving an escort and on the escort board. your argument was just shot down!!!!!!!!! [email protected]@12 i win
and here i was thinking it was just a vac T... I have never seen coolant flow in there either, so I'm not sure how this is. Hmm something interesting to check out.
I bet it doesnt help at all.
NAAWSSSS FTMFW RICER HP 35SHOT gives me 95 H PEE THE MOTHER TRUCKING WHEELZZZZZZ FOMFG MTFW FTMFW!!!1111oneonePWNZZZ
Alright dumbfukc, I already said "Do it if you want to." Did I not? Fukcing tool. You don't believe phenolic spacers make a difference?!! Holy shit, you're another breed of ricer.
Good for you. Had you been civil, I could've had your NAWZ kit price beat, but fukc you too.
Where did I say I was going to do it? I've got other plans, that's more bang for the buck.
Regarding money: anyone on here with a boosted escort can obviously afford better, so maybe you should pm them and bash them then ask the saem question.
HEY YA'LL!! WHAT THE FUKC ARE YOU BOOSTED PEOPLE DOING ON A SHYT ESCORT SITE WHEN YOU COULD AFFORD A BETTER CAR?!
I dunno, maybe it's because we love tooling on cars, and these are the underdogs of the ricer world.
But you're just a little 17 year old hot headed son of a bytch that can't get laid and likes playing bench racer on the computer. Do us all a favor and go stick your dick in that cold can of yours that been filled with dry ice.
Now you've got grounds to bitch about me bashing you.
I could bash your mom/wife too, but we'll save that rant for your rebuttle.
bash my mom all you want, she's an old school muscle car girl.
my wife, say what u want, dont bother me, words on the internet mean nothing.
Im 33, at 17 I did nothing but smoke pot and fuck.
I could have boosted, didnt want to, I like the N/A side of things.
as for the spacers, I know they make a difference. Im just gonna try a different approach. ya think the first guy to think about boosting a 3rd gen Escort didnt get flamed a bit.
btw, boosting an Escort even basic isnt that expensive.
they are the underdogs because Japan can make easy bolt and go mods for civics and other Jap cars, perhaps we need the same ideology in the US, instead of our auto manufacturers second guessing and coming out with new stuff instead of making they're auto lines "better" with mods.
Ford for one is slowly fading to the Jap invasion, as is GM. Perhaps they need to come up with a fresh idea for they're lines already on the road. They seem to only design mod what they like to race. The zetec is a GREAT motor, and has a good supply of mods and plug-n-plays, but still wont touch a semi built skyline.
as for you jet-lee, Im no hater, but when someone jumps into a convo and bashes even the idea before its tried pisse* me off. This coolant flow idea is ok, I'll try it. It wont cost much money and even a 30*F drop on the intake air is useable. Tho ceramic sinking would be alot better.
as for me and my wording, I just read through it. I get about 3 days off per month, of which is massive consuption of alcohol. Perhaps I was out of line, but again, bashing an idea is hating, no matter how u look at it.
I agree with all the jap bullshit and direction of "domestic manufacturers, that's why I didn't quote it.
I didn't bash your idea. Hell, I've said 3 times now, DO IT. I simply stated the obvious, it's a temporary solution and eventually will be heat washed. You've said you're gonna do it anyway. GOOD! Then why do you keep insisting that I bashed on the idea in the first place? I came into this thread because it was asking about disconnecting the coolant lines, which no one had yet tried. I did, and noted my experience, then gave my opinion on the current idea. But, I'll say it again: It will act as a radiator, eventually heating up to the temperature of the engine. Now, you claim it's for drag only use, I'd just go with an ice pack and call it a day. You know, you could also grind on the intake mani to create fins to act more as heat sinks, also thinning out sections of the mani causing heat to transfer easier. Hell, do both, your cold can and the fins, do neither, I don't care. I'm only stating my opinion, but in the end people are only going to do what they want anyways.
Let me add-in, I didn't say it was a bad idea, just not a cost-efficient one.
Hell, my first idea after plugging my coolant lines was to re-route the a/c lines through there. Run your A/C for a little bit, shut it off, and have an ice cold intake mani, but isn't a/c refrigerant flammable? That's what stopped me.
Was it a good idea? Sounded like it at first. Hell, maybe it is possible, I don't know, but I don't feel like taking that chance. If it is possible, maybe you should give that a shot as well.
Im not sure about Freon but R134 isnt flammable and thats what I run. The idea sounds interesting but the pressure may be too great to even try to clamp on a line. Thats why I was looking at a low pressure flow system since dry ice is inexpensive and wouldnt need to be compressor driven off the drive belt.
If 100% propylene glycol was used as the heat transfer fluid, and cooled with a good supply of dry ice, it should do the same without having to have the engine running to cool it.
Even pumping continuously, the dry ice should last for an hr or so once the fluid is chilled to its coldest temp before it would have to be refilled.
But yea, it would only be a temp cooling.
also, open apology. I was a jackass this weekend , sorry jet-lee, I had..well..ALOT to drink.
I should have a setup done in 5-7 days for this with atleast some temp results to post.
my other idea was to wrap 1/4" copper or aluminum lines around the intake runners and pump fluid through them instead. Copper bends easy(so does aluminum and is more cost effective).... say five to 7 wraps a runner and covered with a laced heat shield.. Im just tossing out ideas here.
Water will transfer heat just fine. It's only downfall is it's ability to freeze.
Maybe groove the mani a little to inset the lines.
Add sinking fins to the copper/alum lines to help dissipate the heat to/from the can/rad.
For the amount of work and complicaiton, and weight added by putting a manifold coolant system, you might just be better off geting a fiberlgass hood and putting a functional scoop on it directly over the manifold to force cool air across it. You'd still be cooling it using air, you'd just cut out the water step.
You'd still probably want to maybe groove it or texture it to increse the surface area, but it'd probably work just as well.
Ummm... you have it backwards; the point of running coolant through the throttle body is to heat up the throttle body. The coolant cools the engine, but it is much warmer than ambient, so running it through the throttle body heats it up.
But wouldnt the throttle body heatsoak with the heat from the motor eventually and get even hotter without the heating/cooling system?
Hell I duno I'm tired and its just a guess.
Maybe those cooling lines are just that, keep the throttle body cool once the engine truly heats up? I dont have a clue...if I'm wrong, I may plug these lines lol.
Did anyone even consider my explanation or am I thinking of a completely different thing?
Throttle body coolant lines are solely for warming up the throttle body when it is reeeeeally cold. Like Canada or Alaska cold.
Id say that the throttle body coolant lines are more of a temperature regulator rather then a heater or cooler. The temperature of the throttle body cant spike when it has water running through it. And it wont allow the temperature to get to very levels because it needs to heat up the water first and that wont happen because the thermostat will just open up more and let more coolant through.
It's never going to spike hot unless you are over heating enough to bake it, and it is never going to spike cold while it's running at all. It's just the throttle body, it doesn't need temperature assistance to function properly. It just needs to not be frozen solid.
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